Comfort comes home-Project Lexus GSX - Page 6

**Goat Blower** · 08-27-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

Not leaving until winter? We only have 2 months maybe until salt season

I wanted it done before PG2, the biggest reason is one bad wheel bearing though. Surprisingly, the bushings look pretty good. I forgot that Shindley had replaced all the control arm bushings with poly back in the 90's, makes my job a bit easier.

turbotalon1g · 08-27-2015

^hahaha that's awesome!

ah I didn't know, those parts will make PG2 a bit more fun.

**Goat Blower** · 08-27-2015

Yeah, and if I get the Evo rear in it by then, I can drift FnF style around the corners.

**Halon** · 08-27-2015

What events you planning to run it in?

**Goat Blower** · 08-27-2015

Roadcourse, possibly drag race.

**Goat Blower** · 09-21-2015

Geez, got the whole rear end apart expecting the toe in bushings to just crumble but they're in perfect condition. Rubber is still nice and pliable. I almost full guilty hacking these up to weld them solid when they look like new. I guess this job isn't bad on a 23-year old car if it's never driven in snow.

s1ngletracker · 09-22-2015

What method did you use to yank them out of the trailing arms?

turbotalon1g · 09-22-2015

Did you run this at PG?
Let me know how bad this is, I still need to do my rear subframe.

**Goat Blower** · 09-22-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1ngletracker

What method did you use to yank them out of the trailing arms?

A little WD40 and two flat blade screw drivers to get it out just a bit, than a long bar through the bushing and a rubber mallet. They actually came out pretty nice compared to other pictures on the web of people burning them out. I'm glad it was in good shape as I only had to cut off the mushroom part of the rubber to put the Taboo Speed Shop solid bushings on. Now to weld them in place and paint it up.

**Goat Blower** · 09-22-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

Did you run this at PG?
Let me know how bad this is, I still need to do my rear subframe.

Ha, no. I was traveling for work the whole week before PG so I didn't get it done. I'm taking my time cleaning up and painting all the parts so it'll look nice as well. I've got it completely disassembled and now it's starting to go back together. I'm really shocked how good of shape most of this is in, I was convinced the bushings were completely shot all around.

s1ngletracker · 09-22-2015

It looks like you had previously put some polyurethane bushings in the bushing at the subframe interface, and the taboo pieces are just 2 collar halves you weld in place?

My only concern is that the trailing arms don't move up and down in a single plane, they also move in and out as the suspension travels, 2 total axis'. With the solid interface and stiff bushings your suspension might do some weird things with binding/unbinding and might make your handling unpredictable. I really like using rod ends at that connection, no play but allows for free suspension movement.

They also have the added benefit of extra toe adjustment, which I actually needed the last time I aligned my car. It was lowered enough that the stock cam bolts didn't allow for enough adjustment to bring toe back into spec.

**Goat Blower** · 09-22-2015

The whole idea of the collars is to eliminate the second plane and only allow up and down movement. I like the solid bushings, but I wanted just a bit of compliance, so I don't shake my fillings out, hence the poly everywhere. I've read a lot of good reviews on using these for handling and drag before the solid ones came on the market.

s1ngletracker · 09-23-2015

That's what i'm worried about... maybe I wasn't clear but as part of the suspension design, it needs the second plane otherwise your suspension will bind. The poly has some flex, maybe it would be okay but I used rod ends to eliminate the chance altogether.

**Goat Blower** · 09-23-2015

Hmm, I see what you're saying. I'll have to look at the range of motion once it's all together. I'm just not picturing why I need the second plane with the triangulation of the upper and lower control arms. In fact, that's pretty much exactly what I'm trying to eliminate, the side to side movement of the trailing arms causing toe changes in cornering.

s1ngletracker · 09-23-2015

The upper and lower control arms move in an arc - so the vertical positions of the outboard ends of the control arms is always going to move - it is a byproduct of the design of most multi-link suspension systems. It does change your toe and it is just the name of the game - depending on where your control arms sit in their arc of travel will dictate what happens to your toe - whether increase or decrease.

I believe with a dsm, if your car is pretty low, you get more toe-out during suspension bump, if it is stock you get more toe-in.. I could be wrong.

The compliance bushing/flex link on the leading edge of the trailing arm is unnecessary for proper movement of the suspension and creates yet MORE toe-in, so that is why people eliminate it.

You might be okay, just see how freely your suspension moves with your trailing/control arms installed but he strut/spring out or not connected. Preferably no sway bar either.

**Goat Blower** · 09-23-2015

That's what I'm thinking, putting it together so I can see the full motion of the suspension travel.

**Goat Blower** · 10-21-2015

Mmm, all cleaned up and painted with new bearings, rod ends, poly bushings and the toe eliminator kit. Almost a shame to put this baby back under the car.

s1ngletracker · 10-22-2015

No adjustable upper links?

**Goat Blower** · 10-22-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1ngletracker

No adjustable upper links?

I have some, decided not to put them in as my lowers are shortened and there should be enough adjustment in the stock eccentric bolts. I had zero rear camber but then remembered that I had the alignment guy set it at zero for drag racing years ago.

Also found out that putting in the rear assembly by yourself is a real bitch. I fought balancing that whole thing on a standard jack for an hour before I got it in. I wish I had one of those platform scissor lifts, would've made it way easier. That also gave me the idea to build a small platform to put on my jack with a rubber pad on it for projects like this.

s1ngletracker · 10-22-2015

Yeah, you don't really need much if your car isn't slammed and you're mostly street driving. Our car really likes almost 3.5* of rear wheel camber for racing. I can actually get that with the stock eccentric bolts at the ride height we're at.