Yes I had the block o ringed before last year, and with the MLS gasket worked great until I turned the boost up a little to high
I had been running around 39-40psi on E98 and towards the end of last year I wanted to see a little more. So the night we drove all over to all the good hang outs and what have you I upped it to 43psi, car felt good so I figured up it to 45ish, but the car made 50psi of boost and lifted the head.
So the MLS gasket in the #3 cylinder on the intake side turned into a blow torch and made short work of the cylinder head and gasket, burt the o ring and singed the deck surface....
This was the 2nd full pull of 2012, I think at 29psi we ended up making 650, then traction issues and other problems ended the dyno sessions with no solid numbers, but based on logs the car was making more power per PSI then 2011 when it made 947AWHP at DB at 44psi.
Not a DD but a streatable race car, I did take it to CUB late one night when Alison needed something from the store.
Her is the little one that has been my focus for the last 4 some months, it is a great thing to be a father, and I hope to give little Liana everything I can. And someday as much I hate to say it I should learn how to distill moon shine so Liana can beat her boyfriends car in a race.
Liana in her baptism out fit knitted by my mom.
The blow out went into the intake runner, so this is the first stage of welding the MAP stage 5 head back up, filling in the floor.
I then stood the head up on end and started building up the deck surface, I will check with a sonic tester to make sure its thick enough before the head goes back on, then I filled in the out side hole, there should still be a small opening for coolant flow on that side. And after decking and putting in new intake valve seats this head should be good to go.
After some talking with my friend Andy I noticed in my logs my voltage would drop to 13.x for a short time then go back up to 14+. We talked and he thought I might be over spinning the alternator and causing voltage issues. So we cut down a factory alternator pulley and welded a factory water pump pulley to it, and this will reduce the alternator rpm by a lot. From what I could find it might spin a little slow at idle but be a lot closer to the peek alternator rpm then over driven by a ton.
And if it does not work, I have a few other factory pulleys and I can just swap it out.
Mains and Rod bearing could be used again, but new ones will be installed, cylinder walls looked great also.
This is the comparison of the 2010 to 2011 pistons from CP. They inspected the 2010 pistons and changed the out shape and machine processes, and the piston skirt wear was reduced by A LOT, and they added more gas ports for the top ring, 6 instead of 4.
Nothing but the best, super easy instal, rock solid performance and easy removal during rebuilds.
With the custom Carrillo rod I can not be happier, the straight I beam, 3/8" CARR rod bolts, wider small end and crazy NASCAR spec balance with the pistons.... I sent them back also and I have full CMM specs and they are EXACTLY the same as when they were produced, crazy.
Here is a pic of my car launching at the line at the Muscle Car Shoot out at BIR from 2012, the track had way to much bite for my setup, I made 1 full pass and broke 5 rear axels in that event.
So I ordered some tranny refresh parts from JACKS. I hope this gives me close to a season of use.
I am replacing the evo 3 4th gear, I dont make the torque as Mark does but this gear has 2 years on it.
I am also replacing the 2nd gear synchro, if the car spins it has and will lock me out of 2nd, not a bad thing but I figure just to be safe. and also I will switch back to only 1/2 quart Redline shock proof light and the rest mitsu tranny fluid, JACKS is pretty sure the red line shock proof will cause synchros to fail. IDK I only stripped a used final drive late 2010.
I do have the car spun around so the next week or 2 I can start on chute mount and what not.
~John
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