boost-a-pump ?

**CornFed2.4** · 02-07-2013

Stole this from tuners but sounds like he likes it. He's got a 1G and is buddy's with ostar.

I replaced the hanger in the drivers side of the tank that holds the other fuel level sensor with an additional fuel pump hanger so there is a pump in each side of the "saddle" style tank. From there, I simply did each hanger like you would a single pump.....welded -6 bungs in each hanger so I have two -6 feed lines that Y to a -8 up to the inline -8 filter, rail, afpr, and a -6 return that Y's back to each hanger so each side is fed and returned equally. Also, this eliminates the silly factory siphon system. Both pumps are hardwired individuallly with relays. Aside from welding the feed and return bungs to the fuel hangers, this is pretty much a straight drop in solution. Honestly you could do this with even the FACTORY connections with some simple adapter fittings and Y's. Why nobody else has done this yet is completely beyond me. It was super easy and really is almost an OEM feel.

**4seasons69** · 02-07-2013

Not sure I'm completely following what he did. Its late lol. Here's a pic of my hanger. So if I don't do the bap dual 450s or maybe even cut the difference between the 450s and 310s and do the walbro 400 since it's quite a bit cheaper than the 450. Idk lol

**4seasons69** · 02-07-2013

I guess one of the main reasons I was considering the bap over different pumps was last time the car was on the dyno I was having a big voltage drop that was causing a large drop in fuel pressure. what should be mainly do to a dying alternator. Shane gave me a list of things to do to help prevent voltage drop to the pumps. Which I should have taken care of that list. I guess the idea of the bap was for a little added security in preventing any type of voltage drop to the pumps