Took the transmission out yesterday to inspect and the flywheel loosened up messed up my crank and flywheel. So now I’m in need of a crankshaft and new flywheel.
This first plot is of the car running good notice the knock level. This was from my “moderate” test run #3 and it was a 10.0 run at 127. Then on the last run when the flywheel is loose, this run was a 10.0 at 150mph.
Shitty. I almost didn't notice the difference until I looked at the scale on the left, goddamn! Hopefully you can get it back together by Proving Grounds!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlo26
I need to listen to Scheides more often i think :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbotalon1g
...I realized that I can't keep up my shit talking without anything to back it up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JV
S2000: For those of us that know the Miata is the best car on the planet, but also want extra power and to not have to turn in our man cards.
Shitty. I almost didn't notice the difference until I looked at the scale on the left, goddamn! Hopefully you can get it back together by Proving Grounds!
I should have no problem attending the MAP event with the car. Thanks to MAP for getting me a QM flywheel with ring gear installed asap and to 95Talonracer for the crankshaft! I ordered all of the necessary parts when I finished the diagnostics. It also damaged the main timing gear and the factory crank dampener too. I took the old crank out yesterday and installed the freshly balanced and polished OEM crank. The old crank doesn’t look bad, it could be used again, but will need some rnr to true up the end surface. I came to find out that the crank press pin that I ordered from Mitsu was incorrect….So I need a crank to flywheel pin before I can get the car running. I still put the motor in today, with no trans. It will be easier to correctly torque the flywheel with the motor in the car. I just hope all goes well this week!
The car is back together and running, I checked the tune too. All is good. Got my NHRA license in the mail on monday. See everyone at the MAP event!
You are a fukin rip! I'm very very impressed how you got everything back together so quickly, nice work! Got any carnage pics?
Also, did you have to yank the motor completely apart or did you just yank the timing components, pull the oil pan off and leave the pistons in the block?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlo26
I need to listen to Scheides more often i think :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbotalon1g
...I realized that I can't keep up my shit talking without anything to back it up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JV
S2000: For those of us that know the Miata is the best car on the planet, but also want extra power and to not have to turn in our man cards.
You are a fukin rip! I'm very very impressed how you got everything back together so quickly, nice work! Got any carnage pics?
Also, did you have to yank the motor completely apart or did you just yank the timing components, pull the oil pan off and leave the pistons in the block?
Just took apart what I needed to. The oil pan came off, removed the front case/oil pump, and unbolted the mains and rods. Remove the spark plugs and then pushed the pistons down in the bore. Then I just swapped out the crank. It was about a 3 hour process with the motor out of the car, cleaned all the main and rod caps, gasket and bearing prep, and installation.
Kind of cool, I primed the oil system with the engine on the stand, using a drill on the oil pump with the pan full of oil. I keep the turbo drain line on the pan so oil didn’t leak out. To my surprise the drill on high speed was not enough to prime the system. The oil filter was too much of a restriction to pull oil into the pump. I removed the oil filter and spun the pump and it pushed oil out of the filter housing, spun the filter on and continued spinning the pump for about 3-5 seconds until I saw oil coming from the turbo oil feed line. Primed. So I doubt that the oil system will prime on a new motor from just turning it over, like people think it does. My drill spins the oil pump much faster than the starter does turning the motor.
Only made one pass had a BOV weld/material fatigue issue. More than likely due to my welding, did this like 6+ years ago.
Lost some boost to a leak, assuming this started to crack in 3rd gear. Then at the 8K mark in 4th gear it let go. It was still was a great run. The launch was a 1.61 60 foot. I was very happy!
Congrats mark on another rippin pass! Thank you very much for all the advice and good stories this weekend!
Thanks! My wife and I had a great time this weekend. I knew you could get that 11 second pass! I was not around for the final. I passed the green party machine on the way home, I ended up calling Jim. If I'm not mistaken he told me that you won the stock appearing turbo class. FTW, Great job!!
I had a chance to peak at John’s logs at BIR and noticed that his 2.0 spooled a non BB 4202R faster than my 2.3 powered PTE BB 4276R, it also had better boost recovery between gears. Now thinking something was incorrect with my setup I built a boost leak checker, fixed the IC pipe and tested the system. The throttle body leaked so bad I could not even build positive pressure in the system!
So now for my update, I ordered a Magnus manifold months ago, it arrived about 2 weeks ago and I immediately started fabricating new piping and others. I could not fix the boost leak in the TB so I purchased a Wilson TB and welded my v-band to it. The car now spools the turbo over 500 rpm quicker. The power comes on very hard and the recovery is better between gears, still not as good as John’s, as I have lots of IC piping and a 6” thick IC to fill up on every shift.
Hopefully you get the flywheel sorted soon.
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