Clutch Problems

[iceminion]

I have pulled at least ten transmission with ease on DSMs

This is on a GVR4, which is a hybrid DSM/3000GT platform, something is difficult which made this just a little more difficult, I am used to doing the transmissions on the ground and this time I am doing it on a drive on hoist, that might also account for the difficulty. Anyways, its gay and I dont want to do it again.

I couldnt get the clutch to let go when it was un-shimmed, I put a socket on my slave cylinder rod, which allowed me to shift in to gear (barely) and thats how I got to drive the car.

Now, after the shim, my socket extension removed, I can get the clutch to let go, but still dangerously close to the floor (I tested this out by putting a 1/2 racket on the crank bolt, and trying to turn as hard as possible, and having my brother push down on the clutch pedal.

Straight from TREs website: "...and don't be tempted into trying a lengthened clutch slave cylinder rod. The only way to properly correct the clutch offset geometry is by shimming the pivot ball. By properly shimming the pivot ball your clutch will work much better and your transmission will thank you."

So now that I have corrected the geometry of the clutch, one would assume that it all works out fine, WRONG, still screwed.

so, how do i get this damn clutch to let go about 1/2 way through the pedal travel?

I can try putting the socket on the end of the slave cylinder rod, and since that helped before the shim, one would think it would help after the shim.

anymore input anyone? the system has been bled properly, master and slave are not leaking, do you think I should replace the master? I have a new one, but its not easy for a huge motherf*cker liek myself to get down there and unbolt everything.

Thanks