dodge stealth rt

[DoughtCom]

Not bragging about racing, not my thing. Curiosity has struck though... was trying to look up some pics to see what the badges look like but couldn't find any good pics, so I'm forced to ask.

I raced a Dodge Stealth "RT" didn't say "RT/TT" on the back... it was an older one and red. I kept up with him pretty good until 100... but after that he started to pull REALLY hard.... I'm sure if he looked in his rear view he would have seen me say "Dayum!" Was just curious if that could have been an RT/TT or if the NA RT is just that fast.

[Matt D.]

There is an RT, then the RT twin turbo. The NA RT is 222hp FWD.

[scheides]

You lost against a stealth? Man, those are ALL slow! You have shamed the dsm community.

[DoughtCom]

hah, man I don't know how he did it. If it was indeed a NA RT... maybe I should be checking my car I was pulling pretty damn hard though.

Now an RT/TT... shit... I would have been proud that I even kept up with him...

[Pimpin Dsmstyle]

Originally Posted by scheides

You lost against a stealth? Man, those are ALL slow! You have shamed the dsm community.

kidding right? :P

some people use different badges for that exact reason. It gives them more of a "sleeper" look. I have also seen Stealth TT's with just R/T tags. Listen for boost and how the exhaust sounds next time... heh. Those cars RAWR!

[FattyBoomBatty]

what about the stealth GT?

[Kracka]

I believe the RT/TT only says "twin turbo" on the doors with no turbo markings on the back.

[howslowcanyougo]

Don't you have clean but very stock eclipse with just the stock t-25, stock injectors, Stock FP, no fuel management or FMIC?

With just that base stock combo, on a heavy ass 2G you gonna run out of steam <if any>, running against anybody pretty fast!

Start with some of those basics and you'll see some real improvements fast!

Short list:

T-28 <$400-800?>
255 FP <$100>
DSMLINK <$600>
650 or better injectors <$200-300>

Then your gonna want to think about a clutch and and a FMIC!

It never ends till you crash it, blow it up or sell it!

[CDeutsch]

Originally Posted by S2kracka

I believe the RT/TT only says "twin turbo" on the doors with no turbo markings on the back.

Correct.

[DoughtCom]

Yo Howie... I'm running 14.5 (1 bar or so) on the stock T25 and a 1G BOV with a new intake filter. You're right nothing special but it's fairly quick, but as I found yesterday past 100 it isn't so quick. I’m gonna assume it’s a RT/TT, like I said I kept up with him from about 60-100 but after that my car ran out of steam. That sounds about right for going against a car making 300 or so horsepower.

I’m installing new brakes and a 3” turbo back exhaust this week. Anyone have any preferences on the catback? I would like it to sound nice.

[howslowcanyougo]

Originally Posted by DoughtCom

Yo Howie... I'm running 14.5 (1 bar or so) on the stock T25 and a 1G BOV with a new intake filter. You're right nothing special but it's fairly quick, but as I found yesterday past 100 it isn't so quick. I’m gonna assume it’s a RT/TT, like I said I kept up with him from about 60-100 but after that my car ran out of steam. That sounds about right for going against a car making 300 or so horsepower.

I’m installing new brakes and a 3” turbo back exhaust this week. Anyone have any preferences on the catback? I would like it to sound nice.

Depends what you mean as "fairly quick".....?

Compared to what?

Why don't you bring it up to run a few pulls at LSE's Dyno days, I think you might learn where you really stand?


A upgraded turbo won't fall off so fast like that weak t-25. And what's nice about a t-28 is that it's a great first time install cause you don't have to change any IC, Water or oil lines to put it in, unlike a 16g upgrade.

I LOVE my Apexi N1 Turboback, catless exhaust and sound.

Can't beat it for the price!

I'd forget the "bling bling" of the big brakes, <your not making enough power to really need them yet> and upgrade your turbo, injectors, exhaust, FP, and atleast get an SAFC first!

IMHO.....

[DoughtCom]

Yeah I'm not going with big break, it would be nice but I'm just going with better rotors and new pads because of my rotor warp. I wouldn't be changing them if I didn't have to.

I'm gonna wait until Dyno day to talk to people about good spool/good power balance because I've decided that's pretty important to me. Straight line would be nice... but pulling out of a corner is more important. To me better tires/suspension is 100% more fun than going from 0-60 in 3 seconds. However as you know I have no mods really.... and I do things right. I just spent 4-5k on my computer to basically do the same thing I want to do with my car (make it fast as hell).

So I'm spending the money to get this thing bullet proof. The way I see it, if I’m starting from scratch, I might as well buy nice parts now. Greddy FMIC, 3” turboback, AEM EMS, all of the supporting mods, new LSE head, new LSE block and the proper tuning to make it start every day and last a long time. The turbo… I was thinking FP 3065… but I might want something that spools a little quicker, but I’ve heard those are awesome.

You have all valid points and I respect them 100%… and after I spend 25k or whatever I end up spending I might be kicking myself in the ass since I didn’t just spend the 5k to make a moderately faster car… but I’m only young and stupid once… and oil will only last so long… well that and I’m “crazy Shawn!”

Oh and my 1G BOV might be leaking?? I thought they were fairly nice for holding up to 16-18 or so. If so those bastards at extrememotorsports ripped me off!

Peace

[Kracka]

There is no reason your 1G BOV would be leaking aslong as you installed it with a new gasket. They hold about 18 stock and 22 crushed. Oh, and for a quick-spooling turbo to pull you out of the corners you'll want to look elsewhere, that isn't exactly the 3065's strong-point Since cornering is important to you, I recomend either an EVOIII 16G or a Big-28. Those are small turbos going by most peoples' standards, but you can still get 350 WHP out of them pretty easily.

[howslowcanyougo]

Originally Posted by DoughtCom

Yeah I'm not going with big break, it would be nice but I'm just going with better rotors and new pads because of my rotor warp. I wouldn't be changing them if I didn't have to.

I'm gonna wait until Dyno day to talk to people about good spool/good power balance because I've decided that's pretty important to me. Straight line would be nice... but pulling out of a corner is more important. To me better tires/suspension is 100% more fun than going from 0-60 in 3 seconds. However as you know I have no mods really.... and I do things right. I just spent 4-5k on my computer to basically do the same thing I want to do with my car (make it fast as hell).

So I'm spending the money to get this thing bullet proof. The way I see it, if I’m starting from scratch, I might as well buy nice parts now. Greddy FMIC, 3” turboback, AEM EMS, all of the supporting mods, new LSE head, new LSE block and the proper tuning to make it start every day and last a long time. The turbo… I was thinking FP 3065… but I might want something that spools a little quicker, but I’ve heard those are awesome.

You have all valid points and I respect them 100%… and after I spend 25k or whatever I end up spending I might be kicking myself in the ass since I didn’t just spend the 5k to make a moderately faster car… but I’m only young and stupid once… and oil will only last so long… well that and I’m “crazy Shawn!”

Oh and my 1G BOV might be leaking?? I thought they were fairly nice for holding up to 16-18 or so. If so those bastards at extrememotorsports ripped me off!

Peace

My Bad, your 1G BOV is fine, I thought you just had a plasitic 2G stocker.

Wish I had an "extra" $25K to throw in my car? I'd still try to do alot of the work myself to learn some of just the bolt on basics.

So when are you buying the LSE Head and BlocK? Also you better get to studying those AEM manuals!

[niterydr]

I know my tt doesn't say it on it. In all honestly, unless I am in boost, you would think it is a N/A,(especially at idle), and I like it that way .
I would say it was probably a R/T N/A. A tt should have pulled you HARD down low.

[cudvig]

What about an 18G?

-Colin

[CVD]

I'm with Swanny. A stock NA RT will usually take a stock DSM. I dont think a boost controller and air filter put you into TT range.

[Kracka]

Originally Posted by niterydr

I would say it was probably a R/T N/A. A tt should have pulled you HARD down low.

Yeah I agree, down low is where the TT shines. Those 9B's die out on the top just like T25's do.

[howslowcanyougo]

Why don't you save all that coin and beat him at his own game?

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...en&cardist=687

Looking pretty tempting to me!

[slowbubblecar]

I am sure it was definitely a NA with your mods. You might have lost top end from your turbo falling on its face. The T-25 is good at loosing boost on the topend and the farther you are into the grears, the longer it takes rev up and get ready for the next shift.