Evo X upgrades - Page 86

311evo · 03-22-2011

^ word, I've read the same thing. Sometimes it seats properly and everything goes well, and sometimes they're bitches. I guess that's part of the risk with saving a shit ton of money.

**mlomker** · 03-22-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by 311evo

I guess that's part of the risk with saving a shit ton of money.

I appreciate you being kind. Fact is that I was an even worse n00b at the time of the motor build and didn't completely understand the risk that I was taking.

I'll just keep adding oil and if I'm employed come Winter then I'll try to have it pulled and fixed. It's making good power, etc.

311evo · 03-22-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlomker

I appreciate you being kind.

Not sure if serious, but if I came off as being a douche I wasn't trying.

A//// Guy · 03-22-2011

Wow that sucks.

**Murlo26** · 03-22-2011

Compression is even at least like Kracka said

But I am curious what should these numbers be? I know Scheides numbers were like 150's...but is that where yours should be?

**Halon** · 03-22-2011

Just turn the boost up!

simulatedwood · 03-22-2011

Sounds like a fat tire beer hone and a set of rings and she will be making good power again!

**mlomker** · 03-22-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Murlo26

is that where yours should be?

Ron said 135-145 is typical for an Evo. Some pistons are naturally tighter/looser than others. JE are known to be loose anyway.

Quote:

Originally Posted by simulatedwood

Sounds like a fat tire beer hone and a set of rings and she will be making good power again!

FTMFW! It broke 450 as she sits, so who knows what it'd do with better compression.

C3L1CA · 03-22-2011

At least the hood looks nice!

**Murlo26** · 03-22-2011

Well like you said your car still makes very solid power...that just means you could've made even more I guess (insert bench racing blah blah blah here).

As long as it works this summer who cares...no downtime > good compression.

Matt D. · 03-22-2011

Those compression numbers are definitely discouraging. Have you done a leakdown test?

**mlomker** · 03-22-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by 311evo

Not sure if serious, but if I came off as being a douche I wasn't trying.

Not at all. I made a bad decision but I didn't have enough information at the time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt D.

Those compression numbers are definitely discouraging. Have you done a leakdown test?

No, partly due to the symptoms and partly because it was a brand-new head. MAP built it up from a new Mitsu core. The car has been blowing dipsticks, fouling front O2s and filling catch cans with blow-by since a few weeks after the build. I know that head issues can lower compression but could it be the cause of all the oil burning and other symptoms?

FattyBoomBatty · 03-22-2011

That sucks. I messed up about three or four engines learning how to do it right. It's been in and out of the car at least six times, maybe seven, but that's moddin' cars for ya. You'll be really good at pulling the motor after the 3rd time. I can have mine out in an hour if I bust my ass.

I like the idea of pulling it apart, honing and new rings, then steady state WOT on the dyno for the first 10 minutes, and engine braking from 150mph to 10mph for the next 10 minutes.

**mlomker** · 04-09-2011

I had another great car day! Spent it with simulatedwood in Hastings

I started by changing all the fluids: motor oil, tranny, tcase, and rear diff. I went with the Redline cocktail for the tranny.

We then did the rear brakes. Girodisc one piece rotors, Carbotech XP8 pads, and Technafit stainless lines.

A little Motiv bleeding action, with ATE Super Blue.

Up front are Girodisc two-piece rotors, Carbotech XP10 pads, but the Technafit lines for the front didn't fit right in the brackets.

Rather than dick around, I threw `em out. I'll order up a set of Stoptech front lines since they replace the lines all the way to the caliper.

turbotalon1g · 04-09-2011

Nice, i was right down there today as well.

**PlanoEvo** · 04-09-2011

looking good!

**Kracka** · 04-10-2011

Very nice! Technafit's customer service is great, you should at least send them back for a refund...or replaced with the correctly made lines.

**mlomker** · 04-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

Technafit's customer service is great, you should at least send them back for a refund...or replaced with the correctly made lines.

The Technafit kit is a poor design. It comes with front & rear lines for cheap ($80 or so) but the front lines only go from car to bracket and use stock lines from bracket to caliper. Once they didn't fit...I threw them away. I wasn't going to remove the rear lines since they were already installed and Shawn's time was limited.

I bought the lines like a year ago based on recommendations...I didn't realize the limitation when I bought them. I ordered a set of the Stoptech front lines this morning ($90).

**Kracka** · 04-10-2011

Gotcha.

Be sure to periodically check for fitment/rubbing issues no matter what brand of SS brake lines you have; mine moved slowly over time and ended up rubbing and eventually blew out on the highway during a hard stop coming down from 80.

**mlomker** · 04-10-2011

Will do. Was planning on total fluid changes every 15k miles (once per year for me) since the car is more of a toy than a driver.