Tubular chassis builder - Page 2

SlowWhite · 03-04-2015

I asked once what it would take to turn my car into a rwd and the figure I got was $45k

**JET** · 03-04-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlowWhite

I asked once what it would take to turn my car into a rwd and the figure I got was $45k

That sounds like someone wanted you to go away :P I would expect ~$15k for something like this.

turbotalon1g · 03-04-2015

Patience metal fab seems to be big into tubular stuff as well and they can get certifired.

dogwhistle · 03-04-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

Patience metal fab seems to be big into tubular stuff as well and they can get certifired.

I have talked to these guys (turns out the be the company that did MAP's sponsored drift 240sx) and I really like what they do. I'll check in with them when they are open. Racecraft thought I was nuts, and I'm waiting on a reply from Vassil. Worst case I just go tubular front end with new strut towers front, and have Patience do a new floor pan along with a roll cage connected to the rear strut towers.

URV8SUX · 03-05-2015

What are your goals for the car and is a tube chassis needed or wanted?

bramagedained · 03-05-2015

Just buy Buschur's 1G race car he is selling for $25k.

SlowWhite · 03-05-2015

If you are willing to wait. There is a sick part out that is going to happen in about two months.

And there is a shell with a 10pt cage, freshly painted engine bay and exterior.

That will be part of it and it retains full interior. I actually contemplated selling my eclipse and just buying his out right. But he cant wait till next year when id have the difference in cash.

It'll be posted on ecmlink car makes around 700hp

s1ngletracker · 03-05-2015

I wonder if what he's actually talking about is a caged chassis... and not a tube frame car.

dogwhistle · 03-08-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1ngletracker

I wonder if what he's actually talking about is a caged chassis... and not a tube frame car.

After much research on why you guys are right on tube framed cars, I have been looking into a tubed chassis with a full cage and front and rear sections if possible. I have talked to a few more fabricators I knew from the off-road world and have decided the money and mostly time going into full tubular would never pay off and since most sections of our chassis can be fixed or modified without using tubular designs that gives me more confidence. Wanting it to be daily drive able if I needed, but also safe for the occasional event, all while trying to prevent chassis decay, is a hard target to hit.

Pushit2.0 · 03-08-2015

If I had space and time it would be a fun project. Good luck.

Speedfreak · 03-08-2015

As others have asked. What are you trying to achieve, prevent or are worried about?

For daily driving, you should just do a cage in a normal chassis car, with swingouts. There is no need to do all you are talking about, if corrosion is your worry. Everything can be fixed or replaced for cheaper than what you are proposing.

None of this will "pay off" in any sense of the meanings, so not sure what you mean by that comment above.

Back to the original question, what do you think all this will achieve? What are you trying to achieve? Answering this clearly will help us all give you sound advice.

dogwhistle · 03-08-2015

Frankly I plan on traveling to several tracks throughout the country as I start to perfect sections of the car. I will start with BIR, Road America, Indianapolis, and possibly some tracks in GA and FL. I have family all over the country and would love to eventually travel more with my car not just a couple hours here or there to a local event. I have over 10,000 miles on a built setup from DD and small trips here and there and I know that in order to truly make the car ready for anything, the chassis would be best modified to allow some serviceability and versatility.

Front end:
-More open to allow better routing of cooling devices and cooling airflow in general
-Lighter
-Stiffer
-Easier mounting of aero/performance accessories like splitters, intercooler, etc
-Easier to clean and keep free of rust

Rear end:
-Easier to clean and keep free of rust
-Lighter
-Stiffer

Main chassis:
-Lighter
-Stiffer
-Easier to clean and keep free of rust
-Ability to mount additional safety gear like harnesses and lower seating front and rear
-Allow for easier wiring routing

Quote:

Originally Posted by bramagedained

Just buy Buschur's 1G race car he is selling for $25k.

I saw that I am drooling.

turbotalon1g · 03-08-2015

Sounds like you want a cage, along with tubular front and rear subframes.

s1ngletracker · 03-08-2015

I would even suggest subtracting tubular front and rear subframes. Just get a clean southern car and have a cage added by bulfab, etc. Do maintenance on it, get it in good running condition, add necessary upgrades for tracking the car, and go have fun. I am basically currently doing exactly that with a new racecar for WRL/Chumpcar. LMK if you want help or advice.

Speedfreak · 03-09-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1ngletracker

I would even suggest subtracting tubular front and rear subframes. Just get a clean southern car and have a cage added by bulfab, etc. Do maintenance on it, get it in good running condition, add necessary upgrades for tracking the car, and go have fun. I am basically currently doing exactly that with a new racecar for WRL/Chumpcar. LMK if you want help or advice.

This the route you should go. All the rest will likely make life with the car worse in the end. Don't over complicaten what isn't needed. Build it this way, try it out, and mod IF needed. Don't create more items to fine tune before you even start going more harcore.

dogwhistle · 03-09-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

Sounds like you want a cage, along with tubular front and rear subframes.

Yes exactly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Speedfreak

This the route you should go. All the rest will likely make life with the car worse in the end. Don't over complicaten what isn't needed. Build it this way, try it out, and mod IF needed. Don't create more items to fine tune before you even start going more harcore.

I appreciate the input from you both and frankly will strongly consider doing just the roll cage first and cleaning up the rest of the car as best as possible and go from there. I look forward to mainly the safety, strength, and rigidity of a cage anyway so I feel it's money well spent in the grand scheme of chassis modifications.

s1ngletracker · 03-10-2015

FYI - driving a caged car without a helmet is actually more dangerous than driving a non-caged car without a helmet. Lots of metal to bash your coconut on.

Speedfreak · 03-10-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1ngletracker

FYI - driving a caged car without a helmet is actually more dangerous than driving a non-caged car without a helmet. Lots of metal to bash your coconut on.

Very good point.

**Goat Blower** · 03-10-2015

Rust is not an issue in a car driven only in the summer. I've never had even a spot on mine.

TkrPerformance · 03-10-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goat Blower

Rust is not an issue in a car driven only in the summer. I've never had even a spot on mine.

same with my spyder. but then it sat for 11years apart lol. I did put winter rims and tires on it this year and it never left the garage