My New 98 gsx build

[C3L1CA]

I think you really need to decide what your goals are Greg before anybody can really help that much. No point to get some huge turbo and a bunch of other baller stuff if your goal is only 500 on a dyno jet.

You have to really pick out a goal for either power or times then go do your research. Then based on your goals go look at dsmtuners, here, other dsm forums and search for threads around your goal level and see what other people have done to reach your goal level.

I understand wanting the best and wanting to do an awesome build but if you only want 500 dyno jet you're wasting a lot of money with some of the stuff you've said so far. Remember if you go for some crazy build to get a crazy built transmission to go along with the power.



For what its worth I loved my bolt on mitsu housing turbo on my fp manifold. No worries about cracking and could've passed it off for stock to a car newb

[Shane@DBPerformance]

My wife's old 2.0l 1G with an SC61 on it was laggy. It had a tubular manifold, which didn't help at all with spool, but it was only a .63 A/R and it had a small exhaust wheel compared to a 6262 or 6266. With medium cams and and a typical SMIM it was a pain to get it to spool in 2nd gear. The gearing is so long on DSMs versus an Evo, STI, Supra, Civic, etc that you really drop a lot of RPMs on each shift. I could never quite get the revlimiter high enough to not have it fall on it's face going into 2nd, even with NLTS, but it was a stock motor without a good valvetrain so 8500 was pushing my luck already.

Usually most turbos above the 16G/20G or other smaller bolt-on setups are a big jump in lag. Going from an Evo 3 16G to a typical T3/T4 is big lag increase and then from a typical T3/T4 to a 61mm-67mm is a big lag increase.

[Yiddie]

Originally Posted by Halon

I know we live in a world today where on the internet, anything smaller than a 61mm is "small". Forget that bullshit, a 62mm is a fairly large turbo to 99% of us. That turbo is going to shift your power band quite a bit to the right. Add in a SMIM, not sure what you're reading but that will also likely move your power band even more right. Add in larger cams, more right. Add in some tubular manifold instead of the short runner cast one (that EVERYONE is telling you to keep but for some reason you have a hard-on for tubular), and that may move it a tad more right.

By the time you're all said n done, I would predict your setup to hit 30psi around 5k+ RPM. I say that because that's about where my similar setup on my Talon hit 30psi (built 2.0, T3 tubular mani, S362, JMF intake, 272 cams). It's a world of a difference from a 16g as far as lag goes. Which may very well have a negative affect on how "enjoyable" the car is to drive. And this is EXACTLY why all of us are saying to stick with the FP manifold, and go with as small of a turbo that reaches your power goals.

Kerry on here had an FP manifold, and a bolt on SCM61, he out-spooled me and kept up up-top.

I just look at it as.. My new build will have potential to make over 600+WHP If I keep the fp manifold it makes it limited. Don't get me wrong I love that manifold and getting a 5858BB is a great idea, But if I ever wanted to make more power I'd have to buy another turbo and a tubular, If I can afford a tubular and a t3 turbo I mind as well. I kinda just wanna do this one big build and not have to mess with it for a while.

I guess my power goals are around 600whp, But I'm open to whatever that build can get me, I just don't wanna do a build that's built to handle over 600whp and only put down 500whp.. yea know what I mean?

I really appreciate all the suggestions, comments and trying to help me out.

[Yiddie]

And I guess another hiccup I'm trying to figure out is.. Which is better for around 600whp, A built 2g or a built 1g head?

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Originally Posted by Yiddie

I just don't wanna do a build that's built to handle over 600whp and only put down 500whp.. yea know what I mean?

There is a big advantage to doing that though.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Originally Posted by Yiddie

And I guess another hiccup I'm trying to figure out is.. Which is better for around 600whp, A built 2g or a built 1g head?

2G

[Super Bleeder!!]

This thread reads exactly like a lot of threads on here from 2004.

[C3L1CA]

From memory strictly modified was running a beefy t3 turbo with a t3 to mitsu adaptor flange on their red 2g.

That car went 9s and pretty sure it made a little over 500 Think its a pretty good flowing manifold for the money

[Halon]

600hp on what dyno? Kerry made over 600hp dyno-jet on an FP manifold and a regular old SCM61, think it was internally gated too.

Something else about tubulars. They look cool and all, but it also comes with some unwanted complexity. Rather than 4 bolts on top of the manifold, easy to get to, to attach/remove the turbo, you now get to deal with 4 bolts underneath, that are a pain to get to. They might come loose so you have to go under there with an allen or whatever to tighten. installing the nuts to attach the mani to the head, depending on the manifold that can be a PITA. You will likely have no heat shield.

At least in my experience, the more I mod and put in aftermarket stuff, the more I appreciate OEM quality and designs. And the more I appreciate keeping things simple. Not always the case obviously, but often the case in my experience so far.

Just my point of view I guess, everyone will have their own. Good luck to you whatever path you choose.

[Halon]

Originally Posted by Shane@DBPerformance

2G

x2

[Yiddie]

Originally Posted by Shane@DBPerformance

There is a big advantage to doing that though.

What do you mean exactly?

[Super Bleeder!!]

Originally Posted by Yiddie

What do you mean exactly?

He means if you build a drivetrain that can support 600hp and then only run 500hp through it you'll likely end up with a reliable machine.

[Yiddie]

Originally Posted by Halon

600hp on what dyno? Kerry made over 600hp dyno-jet on an FP manifold and a regular old SCM61, think it was internally gated too.

Something else about tubulars. They look cool and all, but it also comes with some unwanted complexity. Rather than 4 bolts on top of the manifold, easy to get to, to attach/remove the turbo, you now get to deal with 4 bolts underneath, that are a pain to get to. They might come loose so you have to go under there with an allen or whatever to tighten. installing the nuts to attach the mani to the head, depending on the manifold that can be a PITA. You will likely have no heat shield.

At least in my experience, the more I mod and put in aftermarket stuff, the more I appreciate OEM quality and designs. And the more I appreciate keeping things simple. Not always the case obviously, but often the case in my experience so far.

Just my point of view I guess, everyone will have their own. Good luck to you whatever path you choose.

It's getting tuned at DB.

I guess I'm just trying to get the most out of what I got, If you all say that manifold is the best way to go I'll take your word for it, But what's the best setup for that then? 5858BB? Do I get an external wastegate?

My shortblock is rated 700+

[Yiddie]

Originally Posted by Super Bleeder!!

He means if you build a drivetrain that can support 600hp and then only run 500hp through it you'll likely end up with a reliable machine.

Well I figured that lol I just thought there was more to it than that haha

[Halon]

600awhp at DB is serious power, close to 700hp at MAP (dynojet).

I don't know a ton about the PTE billet stuff. But if they make a bolt-on housing for the billet 58mm, I personally think that would be a killer street setup. Alternative options might be the BW S200 series. I believe they make an S256 and an S258/59 that are available in bolt on housings as well.

[turbotalon1g]

I have a T3 manifold for sale for $150 if you are interested.

[Yiddie]

Originally Posted by Halon

600awhp at DB is serious power, close to 700hp at MAP (dynojet).

I don't know a ton about the PTE billet stuff. But if they make a bolt-on housing for the billet 58mm, I personally think that would be a killer street setup. Alternative options might be the BW S200 series. I believe they make an S256 and an S258/59 that are available in bolt on housings as well.

I'll take a look at those ones too, But this is the options it gives me for the 5858 which only has a hp rating of 620 at the engine

Mitsubishi:
.48 ar external (manifold mounted)
.63 ar external (manifold mounted)
.48 ar external (o2 mounted)
.63 ar external (o2 mounted)
.48 ar Divided with standard wastegate
.63 ar Divided with standard wastegate
.48 ar Undivided with standard wastegate
.63 ar Undivided with standard wastegate

[Yiddie]

fp mani, maybe a 5858dbb turbo with a wet kit? direct port nitrous? lol

[Halon]

I don't know your background, but 58mm at 30psi, no nitrous, will probably have you gitty as a school girl.

[turbotalon1g]

Originally Posted by Yiddie

fp mani, maybe a 5858dbb turbo with a wet kit? direct port nitrous? lol

This.

You will be fast enough to beat most off the bottle and if you run into something that somehow goes around you, then flip the switches.

I know a guy selling a kit for cheap too....