Evo X upgrades

[mlomker]

So, I spent some more money on stupid crap. It's not my fault, I still have a little credit left. I blame it on the banks. They should know better.

My first impression is that leaving a stop light is a bit easier. I've had too much vodka tonight so please ignore this post and any future ones. lol.

[Kracka]

Originally Posted by mlomker

So, I spent some more money on stupid crap. It's not my fault, I still have a little credit left. I blame it on the banks. They should know better.

My first impression is that leaving a stop light is a bit easier. I've had too much vodka tonight so please ignore this post and any future ones. lol.

As far as I can figure this thing is nothing but a throttle signal booster, basically when you give the car 50% throttle this thing sends a 60% (for example) signal to the ECU.

[mlomker]

Originally Posted by goodhart

$2xx doesn't seem to bad for the CBRD lugs I guess.

If they are that cheap then I'm not sure why they don't list a price on their website. The only issue that I see with them is that none of them are locking/secure lugs. At least with the Rays they are all 7-sided.

Originally Posted by Matt D.

Looking at the tires I don't see what you're concerned about.

I'm concerned that they aren't going to last a Summer if that's what they look like after just one trip to Brainerd. I'd prefer to only buy one set per year since it's over $1k/set after you pay for mounting, balancing, and all that.

Based on some of your comments, you don't follow this thread regularly. Stellar was fairly insistent on the rear toe whereas I had gone in there asking for 0. I deferred to his advice but I'm inclined to go back and have him remove the toe now.

I tried getting an appointment with Jeff last Winter. He wasn't good about returning emails or phone calls. I've also had people tell me that he doesn't like to do corner balancing and that might be why he wasn't returning my messages. It wasn't a good first impression. Maybe I'll give him another try next Spring if I only need an alignment.

Originally Posted by Kracka

As far as I can figure this thing is nothing but a throttle signal booster, basically when you give the car 50% throttle this thing sends a 60% (for example) signal to the ECU.

Not according to them nor my initial impressions. Leaving from a stop without bogging was more difficult before because there was a brief delay after a throttle input. I installed it like 5min before finding the nail in my tire so I can't say much beyond that at this point.

[goodhart]

Originally Posted by mlomker

If they are that cheap then I'm not sure why they don't list a price on their website. The only issue that I see with them is that none of them are locking/secure lugs. At least with the Rays they are all 7-sided.

http://www.cbrdspeedfactory.com/CBRD...ous-Parts.aspx


Price- $285

[mlomker]

Originally Posted by goodhart

Price- $285

nice. I had first heard of these a week after ordering the Rays ones.

[Matt D.]

Originally Posted by mlomker

I'm concerned that they aren't going to last a Summer if that's what they look like after just one trip to Brainerd. I'd prefer to only buy one set per year since it's over $1k/set after you pay for mounting, balancing, and all that.

My first set of Dunlop Z1s lasted me 19 autocross events and around 20k street miles. At that point they were at or below the 2/32 wear bars. This was with very aggressive camber (for a street car) and zero toe, negative 2.5-3 in the front, 1-1.5 in the rear.

Originally Posted by mlomker

Based on some of your comments, you don't follow this thread regularly. Stellar was fairly insistent on the rear toe whereas I had gone in there asking for 0. I deferred to his advice but I'm inclined to go back and have him remove the toe now.

The fact that they insisted on giving the car something other than 0 toe when it is street driven (your only car) and is not trailered to the track absolutely concerns me. It's just like any salesperson trying to sell you something that you don't need instead of finding out exactly what your application is and then providing you with the proper product or service.

Originally Posted by mlomker

I tried getting an appointment with Jeff last Winter. He wasn't good about returning emails or phone calls. I've also had people tell me that he doesn't like to do corner balancing and that might be why he wasn't returning my messages. It wasn't a good first impression. Maybe I'll give him another try next Spring if I only need an alignment.

That's just how he is. Customer service isn't his forte, but he does damn good work and warms up to you once he gets to know you, and you him. If you want corner weighting done I'd go to Orr Autosport.

[mlomker]

Originally Posted by Matt D.

My first set of Dunlop Z1s lasted me 19 autocross events and around 20k street miles. At that point they were at or below the 2/32 wear bars. This was with very aggressive camber (for a street car) and zero toe, negative 2.5-3 in the front, 1-1.5 in the rear.

That's very good. I just need to get the rear toe out of there. I'm running -2.5/-1.5 right now. Zero toe in front but he dialed in like .26 in the rear.

it is street driven (your only car) and is not trailered to the track absolutely concerns me.

<--- My daily driver really is a `94 Plymouth Acclaim. The Evo is a toy that usually has a problem or three. At the moment it has a screw in a tire and is parked until a replacement tire comes in, hopefully Wednesday.

I do drive it to/from the track so you're right on that front. I'm going to get that toe taken out.

That's just how he is. Customer service isn't his forte, but he does damn good work and warms up to you once he gets to know you, and you him. If you want corner weighting done I'd go to Orr Autosport.

Does he have fixed prices? I've heard it said that he's very reasonable but taking time off from work and dealing with b.s. might not be worth it to me. Stellar gave me a loaner car. My boss is annoyed about all of the lost work related to the car this year as it is.

[BriK]

Originally Posted by mlomker

I do drive it to/from the track so you're right on that front. I'm going to get that toe taken out.

IMHO, my approach would be to learn how to drive the car (not saying you don't) and then approach changes from there. Don't like the turn-in? Work on adjusting that. Don't like how the rear end is reacting? Work on adjusting that.

Again IMHO, I think better driving can often cut off more time than a mod here or a mod there. Case in point, my uncle took The Kink at Road America at 100mph. Randy Pobst driving my uncle's same car on the same day, same conditions, took it at 110mph.

[Matt D.]

Originally Posted by BriK

IMHO, my approach would be to learn how to drive the car (not saying you don't) and then approach changes from there. Don't like the turn-in? Work on adjusting that. Don't like how the rear end is reacting? Work on adjusting that.

Again IMHO, I think better driving can often cut off more time than a mod here or a mod there.

Words of wisdom. If you want your car to be faster around a race track then you need to mod yourself and not the car.

[mlomker]

Originally Posted by BriK

IMHO, my approach would be to learn how to drive the car (not saying you don't) and then approach changes from there.

The rear toe eating tires doesn't require any particular skill to spot.

I can only afford one day per month at BIR, due to vacation time, etc. I don't care if I'm the slowest guy up there. I have different objectives than most of you.

Mostly this hobby is to keep my mind occupied. There's just a ton and a half to learn...about everything. Driving is just one of those things.