HID retrofit discussion

[clean2g]

Originally Posted by totaleclipse_05

I disagree.

When you go to ignite the HID bulb, the current can double or even triple the amount needed compared to when it's completely on. This load can, over time, melt the wiring jacket around the stock wiring. This happens so fast that it will not blow the fuse. That is why you should install larger gauge wiring hooked up the battery and use a relay to tap into the existing wiring for the headlights.

I concur. I purchased a solid plug and play kit from the guy that sells on the NSX forums (the name of the company slips my mind at the moment), and the instructions specifically say that the ballasts require more current, especially during initial ignition. The wiring harness was well built with thick and insulated wires, and they specifically say to wire the ground and positive straight to the battery because they need a clean and strong connection. I thought about purchasing the cheaper kits, but I'm glad I spent a little more to get something with legitimate quality. So far I'm happy, and nothing has melted in my stock housing so far. I think the heat problems have a lot to do with how well the kit is made as others have stated.

[mx3twinturbo]

I will post up a spec sheet on our product,
1 cold starting electricity 6.5-7.0A
2 stable electricity 3.5A/12V
3 hot starting electricity 3.6A/12V
4 stable power 35W
5 open circuit protection automatic protection in 1s
6 short circuit protection automatic protection in10s
7 over voltage protection automatic stop working reaching18v
8 low voltage protection automatic stop working reaching 8v
9 lighting test no ignition in 23kv anywhere
10 flashing test turn on and off in every second ,every time the bulbs can
11 aging test work continuously 24 hours normally
12 ignition test normal
13 high temperature test work normally reaching 105 centigrade
14 low temperature test work normally reaching minus 40 centigrade
15 waterproof dustproof test immerged in water for 12 hours,
16 anti-vibration test good
17 salt fog test good
18 anti-electromagnetism test meet regulation requirement
19 ignition voltage 23kv 20KV-23KV
20 time to stable in cold starting process 4s
21 isolation function ≥300megohm the power is isolated to outer shell≥300 megohm

if you need an explanation please ask.
Thanks,
Jesse

[Jakey]

Originally Posted by mx3twinturbo

I will post up a spec sheet on our product,
1 cold starting electricity 6.5-7.0A
2 stable electricity 3.5A/12V
3 hot starting electricity 3.6A/12V
4 stable power 35W
5 open circuit protection automatic protection in 1s
6 short circuit protection automatic protection in10s
7 over voltage protection automatic stop working reaching18v
8 low voltage protection automatic stop working reaching 8v
9 lighting test no ignition in 23kv anywhere
10 flashing test turn on and off in every second ,every time the bulbs can
11 aging test work continuously 24 hours normally
12 ignition test normal
13 high temperature test work normally reaching 105 centigrade
14 low temperature test work normally reaching minus 40 centigrade
15 waterproof dustproof test immerged in water for 12 hours,
16 anti-vibration test good
17 salt fog test good
18 anti-electromagnetism test meet regulation requirement
19 ignition voltage 23kv 20KV-23KV
20 time to stable in cold starting process 4s
21 isolation function ≥300megohm the power is isolated to outer shell≥300 megohm

if you need an explanation please ask.
Thanks,
Jesse

I have had a number of HIDs hooked up to an oscilloscope and have yet to ever see one with a startup current draw as low as mentioned in your post.

[mx3twinturbo]

Originally Posted by Jakey

I have had a number of HIDs hooked up to an oscilloscope and have yet to ever see one with a startup current draw as low as mentioned in your post.

I will test this tomorrow. ;-)

[Jakey]

Originally Posted by mx3twinturbo

I will test this tomorrow. ;-)

With? What will the sampling frequency be?

[clean2g]

Originally Posted by Jakey

With? What will the sampling frequency be?

Let's see if I remember my statistics: so you mean that he will have to find a sample size or number of samples that will give him an accurate reading? And then he'd have to make like a bar chart or a scatter plot and all that good stuff? Because one or two readings is not technically accurate since you have variability; the more samples the better. Dang.. I can't believe I remembered all of that.