4g64 find

[JET]

I don't know who "rated" the stock rods in a 2.4, but that is pretty low. Also, don't bother with ARP mains, use the stock bolts. ARP mains are just a pain in the butt if you aren't going for huge HP (well over 500awhp).

The 4g64 is the same as the g4cs block, except it is missing one passage. There was a lot of talk about whether it was needed or not, it has been used both ways.

[Goat Blower]

Originally Posted by JET

Also, don't bother with ARP mains, use the stock bolts. ARP mains are just a pain in the butt if you aren't going for huge HP (well over 500awhp).

I wouldn't even bother with them then. I'd only use ARP mains if you're putting on a girdle, or you have a damaged cap. I'd just get some nice new Mitsu main bolts instead since stock bolts don't like to be retorqued more than a time or two.

[Andrew7dg]

This is all great info!!!!

This is the kind of info I am looking for. I was about to go with forged internals on my 4g63 but figured I better wait. I am glad I did now!
I don't think there is anyway else to build this motor without forged internals. Even if I went with the stock rods 360hp, kind of a waste on a 2.4L.
It will be a long build up but I think it will be worth the extra time and money. Plus I like playing around with engines.

The passage, Is this the water passage missing on the side of the block for coolent or is this an oil passage? Does it really matter if it is there or not?

I know it doesn't have oil squirters but when you switch to forged, I don't think it matters.

GoatBlower, I think I have heard you say that you are detuning yours, are you going to keep with the 2.4L and if so whats your setup are you going with, if you don't mind me asking?

From what I have read so far, once you get the forged internals, the timing belt, and ajustable cam shaft sprockets everything should be able to swap over from the 4g63 to the 4g64 block. I know there is some trick on setting up the cam shafts because the lines won't line up. Anything else I should be aware of? Drilling any passages? Weird quirks?

I do have anothe question, why does everyone go with a stroker 4g63 instead of a 4g64? I would think it is almost easier to go with a 4g64 route. Both setups I think have to have special pistons.

For U pull having these block, yes they have been a great source but everytime I have went there all of them have been gone. I was just lucky this time I guess. That and no one wants to work on cars on fall going into winter.

I figured out why the expo was in the junk yard. I took the timing belt cover off and the balance shaft belt was shredded. I am thinking the origional owner didn't want to mess with fixing this or thought something major was damaged because of the vibration and junked the van.

Thanks again for all of the info!

[Goat Blower]

Originally Posted by Andrew7dg

GoatBlower, I think I have heard you say that you are detuning yours, are you going to keep with the 2.4L and if so whats your setup are you going with, if you don't mind me asking?

Nope, scrapped that idea, I just simplified things for better streetability. I swapped my AEM EMS for a DSMlink and 2G mas and added about 300 lbs of creature comfort back into the car. The rest is the same:

-2.4 Eagle/Wiseco, no oil squirters
-1G head self ported, 1mm over ss valves, HKS 272 cams, Crower springs and retainers
-FP 3575
-FP race manifold
-Venom SMIM
-IRC race IC and my 2.5 - 3" piping
-3.5" Bushnut exhaust
-DSMlink
-1600cc primary injectors, 720cc secondaries(not really needed anymore)
-air
-power steering
-heat and AC
-navigation system
-blah blah