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Old 10-31-2004   #1
sleepydsm
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A/C Needed for Defrost?

A few of my friends told me I need to keep my A/C system if I want my defrost to work properly? Is that true? If not, out goes the A/C in the 2G!
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Old 10-31-2004   #2
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Originally Posted by sleepydsm
A few of my friends told me I need to keep my A/C system if I want my defrost to work properly? Is that true? If not, out goes the A/C in the 2G!
Yeah its sorta true, your windows will still defrost without it though, just not as quick.You can just crack the drivers/pass window and that will have a similar effect as the A/C
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Old 10-31-2004   #3
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that blows! i took out my ac cuz i figured it was good for nothing besides weight and rotating mass for a winter caR!! lol. oh wellz
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Old 10-31-2004   #4
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You are fine man....no need for the A/C. 1G's don't have that function, along with all older cars and some newer stuff. I disabled the A/C in my winter car since it went on with the defroster and of course destroyed gas mileage.
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Old 11-03-2004   #5
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If you don't have AC the only effect it will have on defrost is that you're car will no longer have the ability to remove the moisture from the air, but it should still work decent at defrosting the window.
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Old 11-03-2004   #6
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It helps, but it not mandatory.
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Old 11-03-2004   #7
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Ah good to hear. I removed all of the A/C system in the engine bay from my 2G porject. Less crap to break and cleans up the bay a bit. Plus better radiator airflow! Woohoo!
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Old 11-05-2004   #8
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Anyone know why my rear defrost doesnt work anymore? It sucks to drive with people in the car and you cant seek anything out the back. It just stopped working not too long ago.
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Old 11-06-2004   #9
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Check for any big nicks out of the heating element on the back window where the wires attach to the glass. Hopefully thats it and not whatever is wrong with my rear defrost which I think is an electrical problem under the dash or at the switch. But you could always pull out the switch and check to see if thats working properly.
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Old 11-06-2004   #10
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Also check the fuses to the rear D if the light doesn't come on. As far as the AC you will have no problems, but you will need to have you fresh air/ recycled air on fresh. This will pump in air with the same moisture content and clear it quickly.
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Old 11-19-2004   #11
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The heating element looks fine. What do you mean, check the fuses on the rear D?
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Old 11-20-2004   #12
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With a multimeter, test the contacts at the window for power while the switch is on.Since the defroster is a rather simple circuit, this will quickly narrow down the problem.
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Last edited by LightningGSX; 11-20-2004 at 12:40 AM..
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Old 11-20-2004   #13
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AC? I defrost with the heat. As long as you got fresh air coming in the air movement takes care of the moisture.
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Old 11-20-2004   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CVD
AC? I defrost with the heat. As long as you got fresh air coming in the air movement takes care of the moisture.

An almost direct quote from the owner's manual, "Dehumidifying (cars with A/C) Press the air conditioner switch and set the air selection knob to fresh air. Set mode selection to defrost or defrost and floor. Adjust temperature control knob to desired level."

I took my A/C out as well and I have noticed a few more minutes of dehumidifying, but like was said before, just crack a window slightly and it will do the trick. But you have to have the air selection knob to "fresh air" otherwise it's pointless.

I was in disbelief of this before when someone told me this. I had to go to the owner's manual to find out a couple of years ago. When I had A/C I used to use this feature ALL the time. Especially when it was raining out.

As far as defrosting, I don't think you will have any problems with it. It does help a little but a warmed up engine and defrosters on high work just as well.
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Old 11-21-2004   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LightningGSX
With a multimeter, test the contacts at the window for power while the switch is on.Since the defroster is a rather simple circuit, this will quickly narrow down the problem.
You're talking about the rear defrost button, right? My button doesnt work on at all, so I wouldnt be able to test the contacts, right? I'll see what else I can find out this week, because I'm going to need the rear defrost soon.
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Old 12-01-2004   #16
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Okay...never mind. I found out what was wrong. The 40 amp fuse was blown, so I had to go out and buy a new one. Thirteen Freaken bux for that amp...I never knew fuses got up that high and that was only the 40 amp, there was a 100 amp...wonder how much that one costs.
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