The update is that the car is giving Shane problems and it doesn't seem to be the injectors. He has concerns about both the intake and the fuel system at this point (both of which are new with this build but basically the same as murlo's).
We're in troubleshooting mode and won't know more until he has a second person to help him check a few things.
It's interesting in that Shoot Me Now! sort of way.
I traded a couple emails with Chris at BlaqOPs. Of course he's never heard of this issue...and suggested that it might be the Full Blown hanger. The suction line setup is the only peculiar thing about that and it's hard to imagine how a suction line issue would only affect part-throttle and not WOT.
Do you still have your stock BOV hose? I might need to throw a stock intake on there, depending on what Shane wants to test.
It's interesting in that Shoot Me Now! sort of way.
I traded a couple emails with Chris at BlaqOPs. Of course he's never heard of this issue...and suggested that it might be the Full Blown hanger. The suction line setup is the only peculiar thing about that and it's hard to imagine how a suction line issue would only affect part-throttle and not WOT.
Do you still have your stock BOV hose? I might need to throw a stock intake on there, depending on what Shane wants to test.
I should still have all my stock intake parts yea.
Shane sent me a brief video showing erratic fuel pressure at a steady load on the dyno (in vacuum). On the BlaqOPs kits only the main Wally 255 is running under vacuum. He suggested that we try swapping it out with a new one as a test. I guess that's a reasonably-priced thing to test.
If necessary I will have BlaqOPs modify my stock hanger for their system (how they normally do it) and ditch the Full Blown hanger. Chris @BlaqOPs says that he has a fuel pressure gauge on his car and it definitely shouldn't be doing this:
That's holding the car at 3000rpms and 5 inches of vacuum in 3rd gear rolling on the dyno. It's no wonder why the fuel trims keep going all over the place from right around 0 STFT to +12.5(max it will do) STFT and back and forth.
So is the second pump just turning on and off there? Maybe try lowering the on point of the second pump or something? But I doubt that is it, since the second pump shouldn't turn on until you hit boost right? There isn't a boost leak on that line to the blaqbox is there?
But I doubt that is it, since the second pump shouldn't turn on until you hit boost right?
The second pump should be off within one second of the car dropping below the boost thresh-hold. This is the primary 255 misbehaving, for whatever reason.
It could still be a backflow issue or something with the suction/return line but it seems less probable than a bad Walbro.
The second pump should be off within one second of the car dropping below the boost thresh-hold. This is the primary 255 misbehaving, for whatever reason.
It could still be a backflow issue or something with the suction/return line but it seems less probable than a bad Walbro.
I see...nevermind on the leak, that wouldn't turn it on in vacuum still.
Yea I wonder if the return is goofed up...you could have shane pull my wally out of my car and test it that way if you want. Unless he has one there.
Let me know.
Or you could drop in my blaqops setup and try that if you want. Not sure how much actual work that would be but worth a try.
Very generous Dave, thanks. I'm waiting to hear if Shane has a GSS342 on hand. If not then I'll make a couple calls. They are common enough.
Not like I am going to be using mine anytime soon, lol. Not a problem, the car is already up there too
If the pump didn't work and the fuel assembly was the culprit i would say it would be worth a try to swap in my setup quick for testing...maybe not quick but before you spend another 500 on another double pump setup.
Just curious as to why you have it set up to do progressive fueling. We have sold a ton of these kits and the best way is to activate the second pump at a low boost pressure (3-5psi). Another way is just to have them stay on all the time. Im not sure how blaqops is progressively controlling the pumps but that would put more stress on the pump if it had to ramp up and down all the time. Plus it just adds more to the equation for failure. I,m guessing he is using some sort of voltage regulator to do so, but that's just my guess.
I'm guessing he is using some sort of voltage regulator to do so, but that's just my guess.
He has a controller box that runs off of boost. It controls a special 270lph Walbro that is designed to run progressive. Normally it'd turn on at 5psi or so and then it'll progressively ramp up to a cut-off psi, normally 15 (they are adjustable). They also do a simpler Hobbs kit with two GSS342's in it, which is what you mentioned.
I don't know what I'll try next if it wasn't the primary pump. Try to find a stock FPR to borrow from someone and swap it in, I suppose. After that I have to consider pulling your hanger and having BlaqOPs do their normal setup in a stock hanger. They said they'd help me with that for free and I've already got too much money into this fueling setup. <sigh>
Just curious as to why you have it set up to do progressive fueling. We have sold a ton of these kits and the best way is to activate the second pump at a low boost pressure (3-5psi). Another way is just to have them stay on all the time. Im not sure how blaqops is progressively controlling the pumps but that would put more stress on the pump if it had to ramp up and down all the time. Plus it just adds more to the equation for failure. I,m guessing he is using some sort of voltage regulator to do so, but that's just my guess.
It seems like a lot of the fuel from the main pump is getting pushed back into the tank when the other pump isn't on. It won't support any amount of HP when the other pump isn't on. You have to have the secondary pump come on immediately to get it to transition into boost without going lean and misfiring. I am not sure what the advantage of the progressive setup would be, just seems to add more possible problems. With your Fullblown setups on the 8/9s we were always fine having the second pump come on at even higher boost levels like 15-20+ PSI and it still be able to support good power on 1 pump and be a totally seemless transition when switching the second pump on at those kind of boost levels. With a lot of the bigger power setup we run both pumps all the time, just need a decent FPR that can handle it at idle/part throttle. I just did a Supra that runs 2 pumps all the time and the third pump comes on at 27psi.
With your Fullblown setups on the 8/9s we were always fine having the second pump come on at even higher boost levels like 15-20+ PSI
In that case the assumption is that the progressive pump back-flows more than a second GSS342 would. Whether progressive or Hobbs, the second pump would not be running under vacuum.
Converting my setup to a Hobbs switch would just require swapping the other 342 in as the second pump and obtaining a Hobbs switch. All the wiring is already there in the glovebox for hooking it up.
I'll be waiting to hear from you before I try something else. I could disable the second pump and try running it as a single pump. That would isolate the rest of the fuel system setup.
In that case the assumption is that the progressive pump back-flows more than a second GSS342 would. Whether progressive or Hobbs, the second pump would not be running under vacuum.
Converting my setup to a Hobbs switch would just require swapping the other 342 in as the second pump and obtaining a Hobbs switch. All the wiring is already there in the glovebox for hooking it up.
I'll be waiting to hear from you before I try something else. I could plug the hole/disable the second pump and try it on one. If it misbehaves on a single pump then it'd prove/disprove the backflow theory.
I say get a hobbs switch and try it that way, and if it still causes problems then plug the second opening and revert to single pump. Gah what a PITA, I feel for you guys
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