I picked up a new FMIC for my evo last week and wasn't prepared to pay the $289 buschur charges for the LICP that is needed for this specific FMIC. Not sure if its due to the size or what, but the inlet is not in the standard position. I had some extra aluminum piping from a project on my brother's 1G, and everything looked like it would be pretty easy to fit together and cut for my needs.
Just thought I'd document this in case anyone else is interested.
Parts List:
1x Buschur Race FMIC
retail $799
1x 2.5" aluminum pipe 180° bend w/ 6" legs (Vibrant Part # 2867) (free)
1x Silicone Reducing Elbow - 45 degrees (#ASRE45-X from boostcontroller.com) $38
3x 2.5" t-bolt clamps (#288 - boostcontroller.com) $4/each
1x 1.8" t-bolt clamp (fits stock oulet pipe perfectly!) (#225 - boostcontroller.com) $4
First, some FMIC pics! BR Deluxe on top, new 'race' core on bottom.
Kinda makes the old one look small. When I bought it, it was the biggest one you could get!
Now, mocking up the LICP:
The plan is to cut along the black line:
Then, a second piece to make the long leg end over to the turbo outlet pipe:
(careful, aluminum crushes easily!)
This was the original plan:
But then, as I looked at it, a second option presented itself. The coupler from boostcontroller.com was much longer than I had anticipated, and I had planned on just cutting it to size. However, check this out:
It fit perfect, I could not have planned it better. I had planned on getting that extension pipe welded onto the long leg of the j-pipe, or simply running a coupler in the middle of the straight section. With as well as this fit, the idea of not having to deal with getting the thing welded (i.e. more $$) or more couplers (meh) started to look not so hot. That, coupled with the fact that every welder I talked to didn't really want to weld this cheap piping, which helped me make up my decision.
Fully mocked up:
Test fit w/ bumper:
Side note. Buschur Race FMIC can fit behind the stock crash bar with ZERO trimming. I bent one bracked on the crash bar flat and that was it. I put some 5mm spacers between the crash bar and the frame. If you have time, get some extra long bolts from your local hardware store for this, but otherwise I got the stock ones to fit with some fiddling.
I cut up a silicone coupler and stuck it between the crash bar and the FMIC to avoid rattling or rubbing. This fit without a problem:
Final LICP parts. DB Performance in Rogers, MN has a bead roller, and they rolled beads into this J pipe for me.
Done and done:
I went ahead and put my stock FMIC in place to see how this design would work. Looks like it should fit no problem, just cut the J-pipe a little different, and it wil fit in the couplers a little more level than with my buschur race FMIC:
Done:
The next day I made 394whp on a dyno dynamics with my BBK and this new setup. It seems to work well
The stock outlet pipe is 1.8", then transitions to 2", then the 45° bend, then immediately opens up to 2.5". I might be contacting boostcontroller.com to see if they would make a custom coupler that has the 45° in 2.5" instead of the 2" section. Other than that, I'm very happy with this setup!
Hybrid Mode
