New Jay's Alt Relocationkit

[Swifty1638]

I've been keeping my eyes on this kit. A guy on talk's been rolling around with the prototype for about 2 months now, and loves it-no problems. I hear it works with either pulley you have on the crank too.

http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?m...&products_id=9

-A. Swift

[DBMajik]

I'd rather make my own than buy it somewhere. I don't see any point in it anyway, just makes it harder to change the alternator.

Yes, I know some people like it for clearance, but I'd just go around it.

[Halon]

So I'm assuming that this would relquire that your A/C compressor is removed?

[Goat Blower]

Yes, it bolts where the AC bracket used to be. I'm getting just the tensioner from him to fix my crappy Bushnut alt relocate kit.

[x-pride]

Originally Posted by DBMajik

I'd rather make my own than buy it somewhere. I don't see any point in it anyway, just makes it harder to change the alternator.

Yes, I know some people like it for clearance, but I'd just go around it.

How often do you change your alternator? I think it is a great Idea. I am always afraid that a hard launch is going to take my alternator and put it through my raidator. Helps out with the intercooler piping too.

[Halon]

Damn. I'd love that, but I am a pussy and I keep my A/C, so mine will have to just stay right where it's at.

[DBMajik]

Originally Posted by x-pride

How often do you change your alternator? I think it is a great Idea. I am always afraid that a hard launch is going to take my alternator and put it through my raidator. Helps out with the intercooler piping too.

Through your radiator? I don't know what kind of radiator or motor mounts you're running, but I sure as hell hope your alternator doesn't hit the radiator.

[rst95eclipse]

I'm still trying to figure out how the 2g setup they have would run off the inner belt (old A/C), while having the water pump run off the original belt. The problem I see with that is there isn't a tensioner, since the alternator was the tensioner for that belt. Any thoughts guys?

http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?m...products_id=10

[DBMajik]

Originally Posted by rst95eclipse

I'm still trying to figure out how the 2g setup they have would run off the inner belt (old A/C), while having the water pump run off the original belt. The problem I see with that is there isn't a tensioner, since the alternator was the tensioner for that belt. Any thoughts guys?

http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?m...products_id=10

See the bar on the top? That's the tensioner.


Stuff on that site looks ghettoooo.
example: http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?m...products_id=20

[JET]

Originally Posted by DBMajik

See the bar on the top? That's the tensioner.


Stuff on that site looks ghettoooo.
example: http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?m...products_id=20

Can someone buy this newb a clue? Jay has some very nice products and doesn't make crap. So he has some blinging dump tubes, who else even offers them?

[DBMajik]

Originally Posted by JET

Can someone buy this newb a clue? Jay has some very nice products and doesn't make crap. So he has some blinging dump tubes, who else even offers them?

Hey, if you want to use home depot parts on your car, that's your perogative. Obviously not mine.

[rst95eclipse]

Originally Posted by DBMajik

See the bar on the top? That's the tensioner.

I'm not a fuckin' idiot. You obviously didn't read my post right. Additionally, you must not have a clue as to how the belt system works on a 4g63. The alternator and water pump are ran off the same belt. If you take away the alternator, you don't have a tensioner for that belt and it must be shortened. Otherwise, you'll have to rig up a separate tensioner that can run that huge belt (which doesn't need to be that long).

As for the dump tube, I've seen worse. At least it's being dumped elsewhere, besides the engine bay. You can always make your own flange or grind off the flames.

[JET]

Originally Posted by DBMajik

Hey, if you want to use home depot parts on your car, that's your perogative. Obviously not mine.

How do you expect to make a universal kit without a flex pipe? It is also 304SS, not aluminum from Home Depot. Besides, we aren't even talking about the dump tubes. If you think a CNC'd alternator relocating kit with Heim links for adjustment is ghetto, then you need to quit hanging out with the Honda guys.

[Goat Blower]

Originally Posted by DBMajik

See the bar on the top? That's the tensioner.


Stuff on that site looks ghettoooo.
example: http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?m...products_id=20

Hey, welcome to DSM's. Ghetto sells.

[Pushit2.0]

If they moved the alternator belt to the AC part of the pulley you would just need to buy a 4 cog belt that is exactly the right length, then no tensioner is needed. Can someone link/host some of the pics, for some reason my computer will not load the website.

~John

[Halon]

[Goat Blower]

It uses the same alternator groove of the crank pulley, you need a tensioner. Mine squeals at start up because the Buschur style only uses a bolt to push the alternator away from the block instead of solidly locating it like this adjustable arm. I gotta check to see if that upper arm gets in the way of the 2.4 knock sensor hole though.

[JET]

Good call Steve, it looks like it is screwed into the 2.4l knock sensor location.

[rst95eclipse]

Originally Posted by Pushit2.0

If they moved the alternator belt to the AC part of the pulley you would just need to buy a 4 cog belt that is exactly the right length, then no tensioner is needed. Can someone link/host some of the pics, for some reason my computer will not load the website.

How could you get the belt to the correct tension without a tensioner? Just by pulling the crank pulley down as hard as can be and bolt it down? Don't belts heat up and stretch?