I give up...

tpunx99GSX · 08-16-2006

Ok so the last three weeks have been hell.

Three weeks ago i made a quick pull to see how my car was doing with the new turbo, and when i backed off of it (after slightly grinding the 2-3 shift, i hit some traffic so i slowed down, and when i went to shift from neutral to first it wouldnt go into gear, when i finally just slammed it into gear the car started trying to pull forward as if the clutch wasnt fully disengaged, well being my stupid self i kept driving and made it almost all the way home slamming it into every gear. finally i pulled into a 7/11 parking lot and went inside to see if they had a pliers to adjust my clutch. They didnt. So i made the worst decision of my life, i decided to drive it to another place along the road that may have something i could use.
I pulled out onto the road and again slammed it into gear, and right away, bam no third gear. i quickly put it back into second and pull into big lots. and all of the sudden, no gears period, the shifter wont move.
i push the car back into a parking spot and get it towed home.
Well i took out the tranny after a week of the car sitting in the garage and send it out to a shop to get it fixed. They do that and i get it back, Install it, and it goes into gears and out of gears just fine while on jackstands.
But when i press on the brake while the clutch is all the way down i hear a loud grind and the car wants to die. So basically im back to the initial problem of the clutch not fully disengaging.
Yesterday i replaced the clutch disk which was fried, (requred taking the tranny off and putting it on for the second time in 4 days) i put the tranny back on thinking that i may have found the solution. but no SAME PROBLEM. (at this point im ready to kill someone).
So we head to a 24 hour Autozone that happens to have the clutch slave cylinder, i replace that at 12:30 am (at this point i have been working on my car for a straight 15 hours with no breaks except to go buy parts), the clutch slave cylinder does not correct the problem.
No more, i say, no more. Im taking the freakin car to a shop very soon, im sick of pulling that tranny to replace parts that arent gonna fix the problem. Someone shoot me please.
::End rant::
Tom

blageo23 · 08-16-2006

Is your clutch fork broken or bent? Did you properly bleed the clutch? That sucks tho man!!!

**Kracka** · 08-16-2006

Clutch master cylinder man....I've been telling you that since day 1 on the phone.

blageo23 · 08-16-2006

Oh Yah I thought he said he replaced that. BUY ONE! Its your best bet and its easy.

tpunx99GSX · 08-16-2006

The thing is, If i look at the thrust bearing fork, it looks like its pressed the whole way, and pretty much hitting the bell housing of the transmission. So that is why i am totally thinking that its NOT the cylinders.
and the screeching that happens makes me want to cry every time i hear that. Even if i push the clutch in hard while the car is in neutral i hear that damn screech and grind. its more prominant when i have it in hear and push the break. This is why im saying fuck it, its going to a shop. Let them deal with it.

Nash · 08-16-2006

Could be the pressure plate.

tpunx99GSX · 08-16-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nash

Could be the pressure plate.

BAH, Dont tell me that, thats not what i want to hear.
Its an ACT 2100 Pressure plate, The splines that go in do not look bent or worn at all. The outer yellow area looks a little beat up but not bad really. When the rubber peices inside the clutch plate got shredded i made sure that all of the rubber was out of the pressure plate.

s1ngletracker · 08-16-2006

is the tranny off right now? If the lever is getting pushed all the way in and out, its neither of your cylinders.

Seriously... Have you checked for crankwalk? If the crank is walking your clutch could still be engaged with the pedal all the way in. Its very possible.

A//// Guy · 08-16-2006

I never liked my ACT clutch, they have alot of quality problems. It does sound like its either the PP or the master cylinder. Did you adjust the master cylinder while bleeding it so engagement is high enough?

Also did you use a new TOB?

When you had the tranny fixed did they rip everything apart and see what all was broken? Or just fix what you thought was broken?

s1ngletracker · 08-16-2006

I assume that any place he sent it to would have at least told him if there was problems in it other than what they were fixing, if not actually fix them. Unless this is a shitty place and they didn't fix/inspect the transmission properly.

If his release lever is getting pushed all the way to the housing (which is the purpose of the clutch hydraulic system) then it wouldn't be the clutch master, slave, or pedal adjustment.

Could still be the pressure plate though.

wait.. .this is a 6 bolt isnt it? Nevermind my comment about crankwalk

**Kracka** · 08-16-2006

Andy is right, now that you mention this weird screeching noise (although it should have nothing to do with hitting your brakes) it might be the preasure plate since everything else seems good. My thoughts are you might as well replace the master cylinder now too, even if it doesn't cure your problem at least you know its good and won't be leaking anytime in the future. If that doesn't fix it (we'll see, worth a shot) then it'll be time to replace your whole clutch along with a new Mitsu throwout bearing. I suppose you could buy just a new ACT preasure plate since you already have a new disc, but I'd recomend a Centerforce Dual-Friction since its a perfect FWD clutch and is much stronger than the 2100 but no where near as harsh on your system as the 2600. We can discuss clutches some other time though if you want. I can understand you want this fixed for as cheap as possible so then the 21/2600 PP would be the best choice more than likely (but damn do I hate their clutches and constant quality problems).

s1ngletracker · 08-16-2006

If the shop didn't replace your release fork/pivot it might also need to be replaced or shimmed.

tpunx99GSX · 08-16-2006

The more we talk abou this the more im thinking its the Pressure plate, which makes me think twice about sending it to a shop. What i may end up doing is replaceing the pressure plate and after that ill take it to a shop. just sucks that i have to take the tranny out again. (hopefully the third time is the charm.)
Another thing. I was thinking, What kind of effect would raising the pivot ball on the thrust bearing rod do? I know it would likely make it so that it will be able to push further, but has anyone done this?
And yes this is a 6bolt so Crankwalk is usually (not always) out of the question. and i verified that it was a 6bolt last night when i looked at the flywheel, one... two... three... four.... five.... SIX, WOO HOO!!!

tpunx99GSX · 08-16-2006

The only reason i say hitting my breaks, is because the front end is jacked up so the tires can spin freely. When i hit my breaks and clutch at the same time it essentially simulates my car at a stop with the clutch in but in gear.
If i dont hit the breaks i can go through all of the gears and the wheels accelerate on all of the gears.

blageo23 · 08-16-2006

As long as you are taking it out again make sure the the clutch fork and little ball thing it ok. And get a new Mitsu TOB and grease it up. The if this doesnt work then replace the master cylinder. Then Id say bring it to the shop.

Onefast99gsx · 08-16-2006

Does the clutch disengagement points change when it's cold vs. warm?? I had a severe problem known as 2g pedal pump up. When my car was cold it would disengage like right off the floor. When warm after driving it would disengage almost to the point of where the pedal lies when your foot isn't on it. When it was cold it was hard to get into gear because of the pedal pump up problem. I changed the fork, pivot ball, slave & master and also put on a new S.S. braided line from RRE. I did not shim anything.

I DO NOT think it is your pressure plate.

How about when your car is off? You should be able to put it in every gear, clutch or no clutch.

Sounds almost internal to the tranny, like a shift fork or even a shift rail.

**Kracka** · 08-16-2006

There is no reason to shim the ball, that is just a band-aid to temporarily fix a leaky clutch master cylinder since the master cylinder automatically adjusts for it (per Rick Shindley). It may not be a bad idea to replace your fork and ball though, its very possible they have become worn.

s1ngletracker · 08-16-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by tpunx99GSX

Another thing. I was thinking, What kind of effect would raising the pivot ball on the thrust bearing rod do? I know it would likely make it so that it will be able to push further, but has anyone done this?

your pivot ball/release fork may be worn so it isnt pushing the pressure plate all the way in. So just replacing fixes it, but i've also heard of times with aftermarket clutches where people need to shim them, make the pivot taller than stock even. all it does is gives your fork more travel. Just an idea. I hear about people having to do it all the time.

tpunx99GSX · 08-16-2006

When i got the tranny fixed they replaced the 1-2 syncro, the 3-4 syncro, the shift rail the shift fork, and the main rod. when the car is off it can go into all of the gears just fine.
I have replaced so far, the slave cylinder, the clutch plate, it has SS braided lines, the thrust fork is fine, doesnt look bent or cracked, the pivot ball is fine.
It doesnt matter if its warm or cold it doesnt disengage.

s1ngletracker · 08-16-2006

wait... so you're still running the same pressure plate you were before? My vote is now on that.