My ultimate streetcar

[CarPsyco84]

Since I've always been too cheap to pony up for some expensive sportscar, I figured I'd make a car I knew do everything I wanted out of a car. It's been a hell of a lot of work, disappointment, and learning. But for the first time. I have a dsm that makes me smile every time I drive it, not just a single purpose drag car but a street car, that can take corners with the best of them, and pick on stock cars like they are just some Camry.

Build List:

Engine:
6 Bolt block that's been O-ringed, had about .01" of ring protusion
ARP main studs
Kiggly Main Girdle
Moroso 6-bolt pan with a few tweeks
Eagle 6-bolt rods w/22mm pins
Wiesco 7-Bolt HD1400's 9.6:1 CR
Stock 6-bolt head w/Kiggly HLA
Not even sure what's in there for valve springs Brian Crowers maybe?
BC280 Cams w/stock gears
Cometic .046" MLS Head Gasket (for about .04" squish)
Topline oil pump/front cover with straight cut gears.
Cleaned up/ported the main passageway to the front oil gallery
90’ OFH with factory 90’ cooler, mounted between front mount and rad.
Ported oil pressure relief valve
Balance shafts are deleted (not even an option in this block because it clearly spun 1 of the bearings bad)
DSMLink V3
R.E.E.F. Street intake manifold
FP Bolt-on Exhaust Mainfold
Some tubular O2 that I have cusomized w/321 pipe to a 38mm tial flange
Tial 38mm with the blue/blue spring combo
FP Black turbo
FP 4" Intake for SD
ETS Race 4" Intercooler
FIC 2150's
ARC-2 CDI box
Factory Coilpacks that I rewired w/14 ga wire
ACT Streetlite Flywheel
Southbend SS-X plate with the OCE (Exedy) disc

Chassis:
91' Talon body
Carbon hood w/vent
Rear toe Eliminators
rear poly bushing including mustache bar
Stock 4-Bolt and axles
23 spline T-case, stock driveshaft
17x9 +45 Bronze RPF1's wrapped with 255/40 Z2 star spec's
1/2" spacers on the rear wheels
Modded rear tailing arms for wheel/tire clearance.
JIC Magic Coilovers that have been mullerized
Walbro 450 (rewired obviously)
3/8" Fuel line to a Fuel lab 818 filter with the 6 micron cartridge.
Aeromotive FPR
CX Racing Aluminum Radiator
3.5" exhaust with magnaflow oval muffler
3" downpipe

Rest of Car:
Sparco Speed drivers seat
O2 gauge in factory oil pressure hole
3 gauge A-piller with oil pressure/Oil Temp/Boost


Sure I'm missing a few things, but that's most of it.




So on to my current status. Reworking a different block.
One of the main issues I believe plaguing my old motor, was the oil delivery setup. Sure pressure was fine when I drove it normal. But spending some time above 7k, and add some corners in the mix and I caught the gauge twitching alittle. This didn't lead to iminent failure. But 3 sets of rod bearings wrecked on cyl #1, suggests oil delivery is a serious possibility. So this winter I am trying to head off any oiling issues short of going dry sump (anyone want to borrow me 5500 bux?). I am doing some oiling mod's learned from jafomobile. Grinding the oil delivery hole smooth. I will be adding chamfers to my crank.
So speaking of cranks. After wrecking a couple, I was on the hunt for another one. This time armed with a 1-2" mic and knew where to measure the rod pin. After looking at a handful of them. I realized my eye alone doesn't tell the whole story. Even the best least abused looking cranks did not measure within spec, they all showed wear on the compression stroke part of the journal (were undersize just in that 1 spot). So with this I decided to have 1 of my old cranks ground 01" under.

And of course, I got a case of since I'm in there's... Girdle, arp mains, align honed (at least checked), deck and fire ring job.

Current question lately is what to do about the oil pan. Can we get a group buy on pan's by Mark? I am seriously considering getting a moroso but I question fitment in the car, looks like it could be fun to fit on the car. Anyone ever use one? Thoughts??

[SlowWhite]

I run a Moroso pan on my 2g.

Make sure you get new not old. They revised it to fix a clearance issue.

Not much else to say really.

There are a few oil mods you can do.

Filter housing has one, the oil port in the head has one, and HLA also you can do. Just Google the topics

[turbotalon1g]

wow nice. I swear there were more 1ga white cars produced than any other.

[CarPsyco84]

I run a Moroso pan on my 2g.

Make sure you get new not old. They revised it to fix a clearance issue.

Not much else to say really.

There are a few oil mods you can do.

Filter housing has one, the oil port in the head has one, and HLA also you can do. Just Google the topics


Thanx for the tip on the pan revision, I did not know that.
I have seen most of the other tricks also, filter housing was already done. Noticed, cause this engine never had crazy high pressure at high rpm like other 6 bolts ive had in the past.
I've read about the oil delivery hole pocket in the head being modded not sure if that's the same trick your thinking of.
And I have an HLA in the garage ready to go in the head. I'd love to know exactly what's needed and what's overkill. But playing science experiment with the bottom end is really too much work and money to gamble with.

[SlowWhite]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.341028/

[Alpha D]

Thanx for the tip on the pan revision, I did not know that.
I have seen most of the other tricks also, filter housing was already done. Noticed, cause this engine never had crazy high pressure at high rpm like other 6 bolts ive had in the past.
I've read about the oil delivery hole pocket in the head being modded not sure if that's the same trick your thinking of.
And I have an HLA in the garage ready to go in the head. I'd love to know exactly what's needed and what's overkill. But playing science experiment with the bottom end is really too much work and money to gamble with.


I told you about the revised moroso pans, they use to leak like crazy...most likely from a weld process? not One hundred on that. Glad to see you documenting your dream build. I think itll swiftly become know in the car community again!

[CarPsyco84]

Everything is going to plan. Blocks at Gosh, for deck and oring. Since I was next door. I put a timeline to this heap of parts to go on the dyno.

While that's gone, time to clean up all the little things. Bigger fuel line from the tank up, bushings in the shifter, replace the bell housing, and take the grinder to my turbine housing. I've decided I'd rather try and make a single 450LPH pump work than try to stuff 2 in there and suck air below a half tank. Which means I need more injector and the bigger line.

[turbotalon1g]

We will have to meet up sometime since we are neighbors. (i'm in Blaine)

[Goat Blower]

Ha, looks a lot like my old build over the years(Muellerized JIC's, FP turbo, oil mods, toe eliminator, etc.) I had really high oil pressure on my 2.4 mostly because I didn't put in oil squirters, which I would definitely would've added if I had kept the car. I ended up porting the relief as far as possible to get it to the right range. Do you have low oil pressure just at idle, or all the time?

[CarPsyco84]

Ha, looks a lot like my old build over the years(Muellerized JIC's, FP turbo, oil mods, toe eliminator, etc.) I had really high oil pressure on my 2.4 mostly because I didn't put in oil squirters, which I would definitely would've added if I had kept the car. I ended up porting the relief as far as possible to get it to the right range. Do you have low oil pressure just at idle, or all the time?

The oil pressure is actually pretty good, till it sucks air. It's 15-20psi at idle, and around 80 at higher RPM's and seems to flatten off without overrunning the relief valve. But I ran .003" clearance bearings so it plenty of room to escape.

It had issues on say a left handed clover leaf, the one time in particular I remember I decided to exit in 2nd, so it was at 6700ish for a lil bit, then I come out on the throttle, I remember the pressure gauge jumping around, and thinking, oh wire must be loose... You know how you justify away major issues, well I can say looking at the parts the wire to the pressure gauge wasn't lying.

So I'm hoping an HLA, venting the block, and a bigger maybe better pan will help the oil drain back, and the extra volume provide more forgiveness for spirited left turns. Cause this was with tires that had the grip level of a brick before, now with 255 wide 200 class tires it really dives around corners. I know people have this theory that DSM's can't corner, and they really don't do well stock. But good coilovers and toe eliminators totally change that.