Tubular chassis builder

[dogwhistle]

Frankly I plan on traveling to several tracks throughout the country as I start to perfect sections of the car. I will start with BIR, Road America, Indianapolis, and possibly some tracks in GA and FL. I have family all over the country and would love to eventually travel more with my car not just a couple hours here or there to a local event. I have over 10,000 miles on a built setup from DD and small trips here and there and I know that in order to truly make the car ready for anything, the chassis would be best modified to allow some serviceability and versatility.

Front end:
-More open to allow better routing of cooling devices and cooling airflow in general
-Lighter
-Stiffer
-Easier mounting of aero/performance accessories like splitters, intercooler, etc
-Easier to clean and keep free of rust

Rear end:
-Easier to clean and keep free of rust
-Lighter
-Stiffer

Main chassis:
-Lighter
-Stiffer
-Easier to clean and keep free of rust
-Ability to mount additional safety gear like harnesses and lower seating front and rear
-Allow for easier wiring routing

Just buy Buschur's 1G race car he is selling for $25k.


I saw that I am drooling.

[turbotalon1g]

Sounds like you want a cage, along with tubular front and rear subframes.

[s1ngletracker]

I would even suggest subtracting tubular front and rear subframes. Just get a clean southern car and have a cage added by bulfab, etc. Do maintenance on it, get it in good running condition, add necessary upgrades for tracking the car, and go have fun. I am basically currently doing exactly that with a new racecar for WRL/Chumpcar. LMK if you want help or advice.

[Speedfreak]

I would even suggest subtracting tubular front and rear subframes. Just get a clean southern car and have a cage added by bulfab, etc. Do maintenance on it, get it in good running condition, add necessary upgrades for tracking the car, and go have fun. I am basically currently doing exactly that with a new racecar for WRL/Chumpcar. LMK if you want help or advice.

This the route you should go. All the rest will likely make life with the car worse in the end. Don't over complicaten what isn't needed. Build it this way, try it out, and mod IF needed. Don't create more items to fine tune before you even start going more harcore.

[dogwhistle]

Sounds like you want a cage, along with tubular front and rear subframes.

Yes exactly.

This the route you should go. All the rest will likely make life with the car worse in the end. Don't over complicaten what isn't needed. Build it this way, try it out, and mod IF needed. Don't create more items to fine tune before you even start going more harcore.

I appreciate the input from you both and frankly will strongly consider doing just the roll cage first and cleaning up the rest of the car as best as possible and go from there. I look forward to mainly the safety, strength, and rigidity of a cage anyway so I feel it's money well spent in the grand scheme of chassis modifications.

[s1ngletracker]

FYI - driving a caged car without a helmet is actually more dangerous than driving a non-caged car without a helmet. Lots of metal to bash your coconut on.

[Speedfreak]

FYI - driving a caged car without a helmet is actually more dangerous than driving a non-caged car without a helmet. Lots of metal to bash your coconut on.

Very good point.

[Goat Blower]

Rust is not an issue in a car driven only in the summer. I've never had even a spot on mine.

[TkrPerformance]

Rust is not an issue in a car driven only in the summer. I've never had even a spot on mine.
same with my spyder. but then it sat for 11years apart lol. I did put winter rims and tires on it this year and it never left the garage

[Halon]

Same with my old 1g. Nevada / AZ car, and I kept it out of the snow. Best way to do it if you're looking to get and maintain clean shell in my opinion.