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Goat Blower
03-04-2015, 11:31 AM
He's in the shop making stuff, he's a one-man business, and it's part time.

s1ngletracker
03-04-2015, 11:42 AM
He's in the shop making stuff, he's a one-man business, and it's part time.

Ha, the only form of contact information provided on his site is a form you fill out and send to him with your email address, not sure how else you get ahold of the guy. Must not want work that bad.

twack
03-04-2015, 12:09 PM
if your serious and got the money upfront i would contact bulfab hes 'Vassil' on here

Shane@DBPerformance
03-04-2015, 01:40 PM
I hope you have extremely deep pockets.

typeRA
03-04-2015, 01:45 PM
keep in mind half the battle is getting through a nhra inspector/ cert (like I was), and the big RACECRAFT tag tacked onto the main hoop is pretty much a 30 second ordeal to get your sticker

for the purposes around our region, you're paying more for brand recognition and the associated credibility that comes with it, rather than top-notch work speaking for itself. This is in no way to say that any of the area fabricators don't produce exceptional work, but if you're looking for the least headache, especially at Brainerd, go with a big name.

If I ever took my '56 to someone, it would be to Kurt at http://www.autokraft.org/gallery/anderson/

this guy does the work, stands by it, and will line up next to you on bracket days

s1ngletracker
03-04-2015, 02:32 PM
something like this has gotta be well into the 5 figures right? Like 10-30k?

SlowWhite
03-04-2015, 03:30 PM
I asked once what it would take to turn my car into a rwd and the figure I got was $45k

JET
03-04-2015, 03:42 PM
I asked once what it would take to turn my car into a rwd and the figure I got was $45k

That sounds like someone wanted you to go away :P I would expect ~$15k for something like this.

dogwhistle
03-04-2015, 03:48 PM
if your serious and got the money upfront i would contact bulfab hes 'Vassil' on here

I'll find him and contact him for sure, thanks!
I also contacted the fab team that did the green 240 drift car at MAP's show and he estimated roughly 6K give or take for taking the shell and adding in a tubular skeleton throughout allowing all the stock stamped metal to still serve as mounts and shaping, yet have the rigidity needed to not worry about strut rust, floor pan damage/repair, etc. The issue I felt with going with that option was simply the feeling that cars or at least street cars weren't their biggest markey/forte along with a long time frame which didn't bother me however.

I hope you have extremely deep pockets.
I asked once what it would take to turn my car into a rwd and the figure I got was $45k
keep in mind half the battle is getting through a nhra inspector/ cert (like I was), and the big RACECRAFT tag tacked onto the main hoop is pretty much a 30 second ordeal to get your sticker

for the purposes around our region, you're paying more for brand recognition and the associated credibility that comes with it, rather than top-notch work speaking for itself. This is in no way to say that any of the area fabricators don't produce exceptional work, but if you're looking for the least headache, especially at Brainerd, go with a big name.

If I ever took my '56 to someone, it would be to Kurt at http://www.autokraft.org/gallery/anderson/ (http://www.autokraft.org/gallery/anderson/)

this guy does the work, stands by it, and will line up next to you on bracket days


I am l looking to actually keep the AWD and just keep the basic features. I know that since the sub frames exist, it'd be more handing the person a rusted out DSM shell, along with the well known pre done sub frames (unless they requested their own in an effort of similicity, and going from there. The car would continue to be driven on a regular basis (currently everyday, but doesn't have to stay that way by any means.) I would mainly be interested in something light, stiff, safe, and resistant to the usual corrosion and abuse that most DSM's suffer from. I understand finding a rust free DSM and transferring all the parts over would cost me at least 3K minimum for the kind of shell I'd want. Since I don't plan on drag racing, nor any major changes in my setup, I'd like to keep it simple. Cosmetically and electronically speaking, I have my connections and have tons of room to play there. It's simply the measuring, welding, and logistics of tubular that I cannot perform and the only reason I am not confident in doing this entirely solo.

turbotalon1g
03-04-2015, 04:46 PM
Patience metal fab seems to be big into tubular stuff as well and they can get certifired.