Tubular chassis builder

[dogwhistle]

Patience metal fab seems to be big into tubular stuff as well and they can get certifired.

I have talked to these guys (turns out the be the company that did MAP's sponsored drift 240sx) and I really like what they do. I'll check in with them when they are open. Racecraft thought I was nuts, and I'm waiting on a reply from Vassil. Worst case I just go tubular front end with new strut towers front, and have Patience do a new floor pan along with a roll cage connected to the rear strut towers.

[URV8SUX]

What are your goals for the car and is a tube chassis needed or wanted?

[s1ngletracker]

I'll find him and contact him for sure, thanks!
I also contacted the fab team that did the green 240 drift car at MAP's show and he estimated roughly 6K give or take for taking the shell and adding in a tubular skeleton throughout allowing all the stock stamped metal to still serve as mounts and shaping, yet have the rigidity needed to not worry about strut rust, floor pan damage/repair, etc. The issue I felt with going with that option was simply the feeling that cars or at least street cars weren't their biggest markey/forte along with a long time frame which didn't bother me however.

Are you sure he wasn't just quoting you on a tubular front suspension/structure and/or roll cage? That seems awfully cheap. You do realize that once you remove the unibody, you have little to no positional references right? This is a massive undertaking to do it right and get all the pickup points dimensionally the same.

If all you want is something rust free, just find another pristine running/driving DSM from down south or something. It will cost you less and be far less hassle and you'll get what you're expecting.


IThe car would continue to be driven on a regular basis (currently everyday, but doesn't have to stay that way by any means.) I would mainly be interested in something light, stiff, safe, and resistant to the usual corrosion and abuse that most DSM's suffer from.

I don't think you realize what this would actually be... a stripped out, loud, harsh, rough, bare bones race car. Even trying to fit all your creature comforts back in there would be ludicrous and difficult. You would NOT want to daily drive it.

Are you sure this is what you really want? I'm seconding Nate on this.

[blackawdtsi]

Eric's car (green 240) was far more than $6k to tube chassis.

I agree with single. I don't think you know what you're asking for. My caged and back-halved 1g was ridiculous. Just getting in and out of it sucked hard. Too loud for the street, absolutely zero creature comforts and #becauseracecar problems left and right.

My 10pt caged / not back-halved 1g was ok on the street but not even close to something I would want to DD. Again, did have #becauseracecar issues because of a billet stall on the freeway. In all honesty, the only time I took it out was when I knew for sure something special was out. I'd scout first with my DD.

[bramagedained]

Just buy Buschur's 1G race car he is selling for $25k.

[SlowWhite]

If you are willing to wait. There is a sick part out that is going to happen in about two months.

And there is a shell with a 10pt cage, freshly painted engine bay and exterior.

That will be part of it and it retains full interior. I actually contemplated selling my eclipse and just buying his out right. But he cant wait till next year when id have the difference in cash.

It'll be posted on ecmlink car makes around 700hp

[s1ngletracker]

I wonder if what he's actually talking about is a caged chassis... and not a tube frame car.

[Pushit2.0]

If I had space and time it would be a fun project. Good luck.

[dogwhistle]

I wonder if what he's actually talking about is a caged chassis... and not a tube frame car.

After much research on why you guys are right on tube framed cars, I have been looking into a tubed chassis with a full cage and front and rear sections if possible. I have talked to a few more fabricators I knew from the off-road world and have decided the money and mostly time going into full tubular would never pay off and since most sections of our chassis can be fixed or modified without using tubular designs that gives me more confidence. Wanting it to be daily drive able if I needed, but also safe for the occasional event, all while trying to prevent chassis decay, is a hard target to hit.

[Speedfreak]

As others have asked. What are you trying to achieve, prevent or are worried about?

For daily driving, you should just do a cage in a normal chassis car, with swingouts. There is no need to do all you are talking about, if corrosion is your worry. Everything can be fixed or replaced for cheaper than what you are proposing.

None of this will "pay off" in any sense of the meanings, so not sure what you mean by that comment above.

Back to the original question, what do you think all this will achieve? What are you trying to achieve? Answering this clearly will help us all give you sound advice.