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way2fastalon
01-26-2010, 03:47 AM
I Thought it would be appropriate to start a build thread

I have a 1991 awd Talon bought it for $1000 with a blown engine body is 9/10 its almost perfect. I dident care much about the interior its about 7/10 some rips in the leather seats . no headliner
9616
9617
now on my 3rd engine going on 4th

The first one had a bad rod knock spun a rod bearing + it was a 7 bolt the guy before me must have put that in there. So i bought the 2nd engine was also a 7 bolt for $450 complete bought that to put in for just getting the car going got it in there got it running not even 2 days it exploded a piston and rod thru the oil pan and cracked my bellhousing my girlfriend was driving it to work in stillwater and im guessing the oil pump stopped working or i got detonation some how on stock boost witch was at 10psi on 14b with open down pipe .? but anyways that's still sitting in the garage with a hole in the block on both sides .[ATTACH]9618[ATTACH]9619



now i wised up and got a 6 bolt short block from grease monkey
i took it apart to inspect it and the rods had a little play seemed normal for an old engine ..? pulled the balance shafts out and put the plugs in there and called it good put my good head on there and arp head studs torqued everything down to 80 did the cams at 40 got the gates blue T-belt got everything ready to go and to be fired up primed it before i put the belt on and put the belt on and it started up ran nice still had the oil pressure problum about 20 at idle with 10w40 every one told me that was norm and it was like 50-60 at hiway speeds and under full boost it stayed at 60 !:angryfire:
so i knew it was a matter of time before it woluld start knocking .. so a month later i was out tuning it with dsmlink and i got like 5 deg knock at 18psi and my afr was 10:8 11:0 in 3rd wot i just couldent get it to stay stedy it wanted less fuel and i took some out and it liked it and then i added 2-3 degrees of timing in the 4-5k and did another pull and it started to knock
:KANE:thought dsm link had a stock tune for it self when i loaded that it ran like shit no power at all but when i was tuning i was verry conservitive i had 110 and 93 in the tank.. i only raised the timing like 2-3 deg and added and removed fuel 2-3 till it started to make power . so now i decided to take it to the masters of thease beasts db tuning and not destroy another engine .. :violin:

so here is the build



Jasons car quest to 500 awhp
1.aem 02 sensor 60.00 cooked myold 1
2.pistons+rods wiseco hd pistons and eagle rods $400-700
3.acl racing rod and main berings $100
4.machine work $140 D and D + head and block decked
5.methaol injection kit stage 2 $ 300
6.headgasket kit $ 70-100
7.big brake kit 2g calpers $150
8.injectors 1000-1600cc $300
9.afpr aem or some other brand $160
10.rewire fuel pump and run bigger lines $80
11.brian crower cams 272s $360
12.valve springs and steel valves $400
13.fmic kit at least 400 hp or 700cfm $250 cx racing or fantasy motar sports
14. bov and pipe $ 130-170 greddy or hks
15.tial waste gate $100-150
16.2g maf i have .need intake charge pipe
17.lph 255 have installed
18.dsmlink v.2.5 have installed
19.get head ceramic coated ?
20 fp evo3 16g have installed
21.megan 3in downpipe 3in to cherry bomb then in to a apexi n1 installed

suggestions on parts or better for the money would be appreciated
i haven't bought anything yet other than stated i do plan on running e85 or 110

if you would like to sell me some parts pm me im looking and pricing out things now :smile: so far im about 3000+ what i have to spend is about 1500
so there are some things that are going to have to wait ..

Here is some pictures of the destroyed 7 bolt some people have seen this some haven't enjoy thanks for looking

At-Least-It's-An-Evo
01-26-2010, 07:02 AM
First of all, an Evo3 16g won't get you to 500hp unless you're maybe thinking crank hp, which it might be close but not really.

1.aem 02 sensor 60.00 cooked myold 1 - Huh?

2.pistons+rods wiseco hd pistons and eagle rods $400-700 - That's pretty hopeful of being that cheap-are you getting it at cost or something?

4.machine work $140 D and D + head and block decked - I swear isn't having a block bored out like $50/hole which = $200ish, and decking a head is like $40-50

5.methaol injection kit stage 2 $ 300 - meh
6.headgasket kit $ 70-100 - An OEM Mitsu should cost a little less than that. $60 if I remember correctly?

9.afpr aem or some other brand $160 - not really necessary

10.rewire fuel pump and run bigger lines $80 - bigger lines for $80? Unless you're using just rubber hose, I'm not sure how you're making them that cheap? - Also unecessary for an Evo316g

12.valve springs and steel valves $400 - not necessary unless you're gonna rev high and that turbo won't make power past what stock springs can rev to

19.get head ceramic coated ? - ceramic coat the head, huh?

Tachyon
01-26-2010, 09:07 AM
I would agree that your prices seem a bit... light. Some of those parts can be had used for around there if you are willing to wait for extraordinary deals, however, I would not bank on it.

500 WHP on an Evo III turbo is a very taxing build. Turbo simply cannot keepup with airflow demands as the RPM increases, it's just physically too limited. Because of this you need to achive dangeriously high cylinder pressures by spiking the turbo to around 32 psi coupled with agressive timing (25* during the spike and max TQ area of the curve). This will get you in the neighborhood of 450 WHP. Obviously this can only be attempteded on high-octane fuel. The major drawback that prevents most people from doing this however, is it tends to kill your turbo quick fast.

I've been doing this with 14b's and 16g's for the past few years, and I get roughly 3 months from a used turbo before very bad things happen.

Good luck with your goals!

Constant_Project21
01-26-2010, 09:41 AM
Something larger in the turbo department is needed. You aren't gonna be able to squeeze 500hp out of a 16g. I don't even think anyone has gotten there with the hta68 (could be wrong). Wouldn't recommend any injectors smaller than 1200's, as I recently learned from shane, 1600's are kind of a pain to deal with, and was recommended to get FIC 1250's, 1350's, or 1450's. You're gonna be working that fuel pump pretty hard, after 450hp as well.

Swifty1638
01-26-2010, 09:45 AM
for 500, i'd leave the motor alone. Don't bother. Stock is plenty fine. You will waste money on the HD shit unless you go with a real turbo, and try for much more. Meth injection...not needed. Run corn fuel, like the rest of us. rewire fuel pump?? for that turbo..no. Head? Also leave stock. Worry about a good headgasket and headstuds if anything.

tpunx99GSX
01-26-2010, 10:02 AM
SCM61 would be a good bet for 500ish hp. Its very achievable.

slowbubblecar
01-26-2010, 10:07 AM
You should have just bought my car instead of this one. You will be spending more than what I am asking (if you include the car you bought) and the car will still probably be slower. I have a set of used aftermarket rods and pistons if you are looking for a deal. I also just added a turbo capable of the power to the classifiedes. If interested, PM me.

Tachyon
01-26-2010, 10:12 AM
Something larger in the turbo department is needed. You aren't gonna be able to squeeze 500hp out of a 16g.

Curt Brown did it back in 2008 with a high compression 2.0 and C16 (AWD to boot). However, I cannot stress enough how hard this is on an engine (I.E. not applicable to OP)

Here's a dyno of said engine:

http://www.beyondmechanics.com/highcomp16g.jpg

That being said, I would recommend shooting for 350/350 AWHP/AWTQ on a stock motor E3 combo and and grow into a more advanced setup from there. You are going to need the money for the necessary maintenance as these cars now quite old and have had a hard life.

At-Least-It's-An-Evo
01-26-2010, 10:17 AM
Curt Brown did it back in 2008 with a high compression 2.0 and C16 (AWD to boot). However, I cannot stress enough how hard this is on an engine (I.E. not applicable to OP)

Here's a dyno of said engine:

http://www.beyondmechanics.com/highcomp16g.jpg

That being said, I would recommend shooting for 350/350 AWHP/AWTQ on a stock motor E3 combo and and grow into a more advanced setup from there. You are going to need the money for the necessary maintenance as these cars now quite old and have had a hard life.

You should note that Curt brown can probably make 500whp out of a VW K03. His results are never typical, but always very legit.

goodhart
01-26-2010, 10:25 AM
Jasons car quest to 500 awhp --- Which Dyno?

5.methaol injection kit stage 2 $ 300 ---Stage 2? Which brand? Thats pretty cheap unless its a used kit. Go with E-85, you will be much happier.

10.rewire fuel pump and run bigger lines $80 --- bigger lines aren't going to be neccesary

11.brian crower cams 272s $360 ---look for HKS's you will be MUCH happier

12.valve springs and steel valves $400 ---you can get FP beehives for cheaper than that.

17.lph 255 have installed ---Make sure its the HP version

20 fp evo3 16g have installed ---good luck getting to 500 with that unless you're the next Curt Brown




Also, you HAVE to clean up the grammar in this thread if you expect much help man. This thing is seriously hard to read. Just trying to help ya out. :D Good luck with everything!