View Full Version : 1991 talon 500 hp project
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scheides
03-25-2012, 09:31 AM
20w50 is run by a lot of dsm/evo guys, I kinda doubt that would hurt anything.
You should be able to tell by the part number on the pistons (or the box) that they are standard or overbore-sized pistons. Always doublecheck your work.
That being said I've made some pretty big mistakes in my time so don't let it get you down! Just fix it and move on, that's all you can do!
How do you know they are not .020 over? That is 3 human hairs per side, so we obviously can't make that assumption from a picture. Like Scheides said, the numbers from the top is going to be the best bet.
evotuner
03-25-2012, 04:00 PM
that sucks man, good luck with gettin her back up and running
way2fastalon
03-27-2012, 12:09 AM
well they are .20 over but what strikes me is they measure 84.4 at the top and 85.4 at the bottom of the piston over a 1 mm of difference ? map was telling me they taper at the top ?
way2fastalon
03-27-2012, 12:56 AM
so my new build is going to be as follow's
2.0
Carrillo rods H beams
e85 pistons 10:5:1 ( still looking for the right ones ) that make me happy
might have to go custom pistons
stock mitsu crank
acl rod and main high stress coated
still looking for a set of used solid lifters pain to adjust but worth the power-band
and kelfords 272s nuff said
evo 8 valve springs i dont like bc because of the binding i keep reading about kigglys are $$$ not practical for dd
i have a slick hx40 custom built ... with super 60 pro compressor wheel ... love that thing. its in a bep housing want to see how much you can push one
small h1c exhaust wheel so 6/12 comes on like 3100 full spooled by 3500
spools amazing ! so far has it flowed 52 lbs a min at 27 psi on Link
going full auto im building the trans myself sick of failing syncro's so looking for a 2g awd auto trans 96-98
dont like the factor of drive-train loss. I know auto will be faster in the long run
and i have seen many new upgrades for autos from manual valve-body's and high stall locking torque converters
loving technology is catching up with the dsms ...
Fuel system now after trial and error i have found over building your fuel system is a better idea than not enough fuel from a tuners prospective
so the fuel system is 2 wallbo 255 hp feeding a aeromotive a1000 under the hood going to use -8 line looking for high impedance injectors digging the better spray pattern and the better atomization of fuel
some may say this is over kill but the car is getting a hx52 twin scroll in the future after maxing out the turbo system i have
What FMIC and SMIM? Might as well wait on the external pump until later. Check out the Bosch 044 external too, I chose it over the A1000 that I was going to use originally. More flow and more reliable.
93gtpeater
03-27-2012, 08:05 AM
Sounds like you have a window in your block in no time. Is this going to be a diesel motor?
CornFed2.4
03-27-2012, 10:23 AM
I wouldnt switch to an auto till you get the 5 spd running great! No issues! Your whole build thread is issue after issue. I know its a dsm but making it an auto wont change reliability. Just my .02
Oh and are you shooting for 500? Or 800? You can do 500 at DB with a simple fuel setup.
turbotalon1g
03-27-2012, 10:39 AM
How do u rape yourself?
Tachyon
03-27-2012, 11:30 AM
20w50 is run by a lot of dsm/evo guys, I kinda doubt that would hurt anything.
You should be able to tell by the part number on the pistons (or the box) that they are standard or overbore-sized pistons. Always doublecheck your work.
That being said I've made some pretty big mistakes in my time so don't let it get you down! Just fix it and move on, that's all you can do!
To echo this post:
Agreed with the oil weight. In a high stress / race environment use oil that best matches your most extreme operating temperature. Too thin and you'll probably get good at spinning rod bearings.
That being said, switching to a thicker oil caused sufficient oil pressure to blow smoke on my turbo (no balance shafts). I am porting my oil filter housing to compensate.
The best way to get a block machined is to have the pistons in hand then give them to the machinist along with your PWC. I've seen ' 020 over' off by enough to screw up my engine builds by having the block bored before I had the pistons.
The more mistakes you make, the more experience you gain. Rinse and repeat for best results over the course of a lifetime. :D
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