1991 talon 500 hp project

[Constant_Project21]

SCM61 would be a good bet for 500ish hp. Its very achievable.

+1, I just picked one up myself. My goals are similar to yours, but simpler. I won't be using meth injection, just e-fuel and a good tune.

[GsXtUrBo98]

If u look into my build that is what will give you your goal

Not that everything in my build is nessasary.. my tune was on major boost leaks and I'm going to get a retune this spring and shooting for 500 awhp

[way2fastalon]

forgot to say is that i did get a s60 turbonetics turbo for free but its blown and im looking to get it rebuilt by some one the fins look ok there not bent just a lot of play and needs oil seals .. will post pictures

i know the e316 is not enough it should get me to about 350awhp

but i plan on using that until i can get this t-60 rebuilt

the meth kit i was looking at map sno perf kit and the prices i put up are what im guessing to pay basically doing my buying in stages so first thing was first to get the engine running good and correctly then later down the line buy some other things i only have 1500 to spend on the engine and i want it to take some stress . ill give map a call see what they can do for a piston and rods for me ...

[C3L1CA]

1500 is not enough to do a motor correctly in my eyes.

There are some things you have to think about while setting your goals.
You will not make over 450 at DB without addressing the single fuel pump.
When you start making that much power, you have to decide what clutch setup you're going to run.
I doubt you transmission will take a lot of abuse making 500 @ DB for very long. Ask and I'm sure more than one person on here will verify that one for you.
List can keep going on and on.

I'd try and keep it to a stock rebuild, keep 16g, put some corn in it, and get it tuned by Shane. That way if anything breaks you might still have money left over from not putting it all in the motor to fix things.

Just my long .02. Good luck with the build!

[turbotalon1g]

The title of this thread put a smile on my face and the OP, 7 bolts = fail and 6 bolt ftw, I don't think its quite as simple.

A lot of good people have given some good advice, being someone who can barely break 400whp I would listen to these folks.

Definitely think about a trans and your driving style and note that Curt Brown's results while 100% legit, not something everyone achieve, hell I don't think anyone else is. (I heard something about magic dust or some shit)

Good luck with build, but take your time and mod the car slow, too many people seem to be on the quest for power and miss the whole adventure of modding and shit.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

You can't compare a high compression Curt Brown car on a Dynojet using STD correction to anything around here on our low reading dyno. Curt Brown spends thousands of dollars on things like ceramic wheel bearings to get every last HP out of his cars.

If you want to make the best power with a little turbo like that, I would highly recommend a 2G head with a 1G TB and sheet metal intake manifold. Bumping the compression up higher than your normal builds too would help on an E85 small turbo car also. You might want a better FMIC and better cams too.

Do E85 over 110. 110 isn't not nearly as good as E85. E85 is closer to C16 in knock resistance, and E85 has it's own cooling factor which usually gives helps it make more power than most normal race gases. Exotic race gases like VP import that are oxygenated add some HP and are extremely high octane, but most people don't want to spend $25 a gallon.

A 350awhp/350+awtq car on our dyno is a lot of fun though. You can run some fast times in a car with less HP but a quick spooling turbo. It can take 50-100HP more with some big laggy turbo to run the same ETs as some 16G car that has no lag.

[goodhart]

A 350awhp/350+awtq car on our dyno is a lot of fun though. You can run some fast times in a car with less HP but a quick spooling turbo. It can take 50-100HP more with some big laggy turbo to run the same ETs as some 16G car that has no lag.


Very true. 95tsi on here made 347hp 361tq with an E316G and E85 on a stroker and ran 11.75 on a shitty prepped track on a full weight 2g.

I've seen plenty of SCM61 & 35R cars that are partially gutted to some extent run worse times than that.

[Tachyon]

You can't compare a high compression Curt Brown car on a Dynojet using STD correction to anything around here on our low reading dyno.

Obviously. I was just playing the devil's advocate because there were some absolute statements bouncing around. I think by 2010 most people realize (at least on this board) that even though a loaded dyno had a lower grading metric, you will achieve a much better tune vs free-spinning a roller to LOLWTFOMG speed.

[Pushit2.0]

Based on the Curt Brown dyno graph he was not at MBT for some reason, there was a little more in that tune, but I doubt that would equal more peak HP, but more torque for sure.

~John

[95tsi]

A 350awhp/350+awtq car on our dyno is a lot of fun though. You can run some fast times in a car with less HP but a quick spooling turbo.

16G car that has no lag.

Very true. 95tsi on here made 347hp 361tq with an E316G and E85 on a stroker and ran 11.75 on a shitty prepped track on a full weight 2g.


I dont know if I would call it fast times, depends what you compare it to. But, the 16g on my car spools like none other and I trapped a 119mph on the 11.75 run. I'd say keep the 16G and enjoy it. Unless, you want to change out everything on the car, then the sky is the limit! If I had to, I'd run a stock 6bolt and a 16g on corn. Have Shane tune it and you will be happy. Save the money on building the motor and spend it on tranny work. ;)

On my 2.3 I'm getting it up to 28-29lbs of boost at 3700rpm and it drops to 22lbs at 6k. Power wise(dyno dynamics) I'm getting 347awhp and 361tq. And the TQ is coming on under 4k and dropping off after 5k, the HP is above 340 from 5k-5800rpm.