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Alpha D
11-10-2009, 12:11 AM
As some may know, i bought a dsm from a fellow Mitsu Style member. Like almost all DSMs though, it has issues. It is a 1991 Talon TSI AWD TURBO. The motor was has been fully rebuilt(supposedly at least). The mod list goes as:

Engine :
Stock Rebuilt 6 Bolt Block (Ceramic Paint Coated)
ARP Headstuds
Balance Shafts Eliminated
ZERO miles on rebuilt motor

Exhaust :
Ported 2G 02 Housing (Ceramic Paint Coated)
2.5" Custom Straight Turboback Exhaust w/Magnaflow Muffler
*come with stock 1G exhaust manifold.


Intake:
3" Short Ram Intake Pipe (Ceramic Paint Coated)
Ported MHI Evo 3 16G Turbocharger
3G 501 MAS
QPR Throttle Body FIAV Blockoff Plates

Fuel:
560CC EVO VIII Injectors (Some of them leaked i ordered the new seals and properly installed them. They do not leak anymore)
Walbro 190 LPH Fuel Pump*

Electronics:
Eprom ECU w/Keydiver Chip
TurboSmart Boost Tee MBC

Drivetrain:
ACT 2600 Clutch Kit
Roller Skate Shifter Bearings
Non-Cruise Shifter Cable

Miscellaneous:
FIAV Eliminated
Emissions Eliminated
A/C Eliminated
Cruise Control Eliminated
Catalytic Converter Eliminated

*There are more mods that have to do with interior and suspensions. I didn't add it though, because I don't think it will help solve the problem*

According to the seller the only issues that need to be fixed, in order for it to be drivable, was a boost leak which was due to a faulty intake manifold, and injectors. So we Flat bedded the car to a friends garage. Jump started the car. The list starts from there.

Issues
1)The car idles horribly.
We fixed the intake leak, purchased new O-rings and seals for the injectors (Mitsubishi dealership parts), but the car still idles like crap. The car holds it's idle at 500rpm even when we tried adjusting the BISS screw. After adjusting the BISS screw, it would jump up to 1300rpm. We steadily lowered the rpm to about 1100 rpm (Anything under 1100 and it will go straight to about 450-500rpm)

2) The car produces an exponential amount of smoke from the exhaust pipe(we were told it is because it's running EXTREMELY rich) as well as from the oil cap(when opened). We do believe that it's running very rich, but why? The smoke starts as a bit whitish, but turns bluish. As if it was burning oil. It literally pours smoke. It will drip black colored fluid out the exhaust tip, as well as shoot it a distance of roughly 3feet.( Contacted the seller about it as well, according to him it is due to the carbon build up and condensation) At one time we opened the the oil cap to take a look at what was going on while the car idled. As soon as we opened it a pressurized amount of smoke (grayish color) went shooting up into the hood. You can smell a strong scent of gas. The smoke would continue to rise out the valve cover for close two 20minutes. The car idled for only 3 to 4 minutes at max. The smoke would continue to rise out the valve cover from the oil cap opening for 20minutes.When i pulled the dipstick to check the texture of the oil. It was not slippery, more like slightly gripe.

3) Car won't go into reverse.
The seller did not mention anything about the transmission. This isn't something I'm too worried about. We have been told that it might be due to the shifter linkage. Until we do that though, we won't know for sure. It could be the synchros as well. It does shift smoothly and quickly into all the other gears 1 2 3 4 5 except for reverse. (This is at a dead stop)

4) When we turned the vehicle of after approximately 30seconds a knocking noise will start. It continues in a timely manner. In a interval of about 7seconds ting......ting.......ting........ I have no idea what it could be.

Overall, I have tried to be as descriptive as possible. I do apologize for the lengthy paragraphs. As well as for any and all points that are not clear. I am really hoping it is something simple, and the car will run great. Exactly how the seller signed in the contract. It has cost much more than we had expected. Also funds are low. Thanks in advance for all the suggestions.

The slightest hints are appreciated. In addition i have not ran a compression test, leak down test, or checked for proper timing on the vehicle. The fuel system has not been pressure tested neither.

asshanson
11-10-2009, 12:30 AM
Is the IAC blocked off along with the FIAV? That blockoff plate could have something to do with the idle if there is a leak. Either that or ECU problems could cause the IAC to not function correctly. Are you sure there are no boost leaks?

Before you diagnose issues you need to check base timing and a full boost leak test. My car ran like crap until I realized my base timing was 10* after top dead center, 15* behind normal. Fuel system pressure test probably isn't necessary unless you are leaking gas.

*edit* What is the keydiver chip adjusting for fuel? You would need to adjust fuel by about -19%

Constant_Project21
11-10-2009, 12:35 AM
First, thank you for properly punctuating and forming your sentences.

My guess on the smoking problem is a bad turbo, check for shaftplay, maybe take it off and look for oil. Happened to me once.

Alpha D
11-10-2009, 12:40 AM
I wanted to get on the good side of fellow mitsustyle members. I realize it will be impossible to help me, if i do not pay attention to wording as well as description.

Alpha D
11-10-2009, 12:41 AM
The turbo already has been checked for shaft play. The compressor wheel did not budge an inch.

slowbubblecar
11-10-2009, 12:44 AM
The turbo already has been checked for shaft play. The compressor wheel did not budge an inch.

Who checked it? The wheel wouldn't even be there anymore if it would have moved an inch.

Alpha D
11-10-2009, 12:47 AM
No. Not as in rotation of the wheel. What i meant to say was there existed close to no in and out movement.

Nartanian
11-10-2009, 12:47 AM
I can vouch for the turbo. There is 0 in/out shaft play and 1/16" side to side play at the very most.

Alpha D
11-10-2009, 01:11 AM
We performed a boost leak down test. I found multiple leaks. In the intercooler piping, injectors, and throttle body gaskets. All of the leaks mentioned above have been fixed. My next step was to do a timing test. Going through various potential causes. Focusing on one problem at a time. I would appreciate if any body could make a small list. Of the things i should check. It would save me a lot of time.


Thank You.

Alpha D
11-10-2009, 01:14 AM
Unfortunately i do not know what the keydiver chip is adjusting for fuel. I will try to contact the seller, and inquire if he knows the specific set up. I doubt he will know these details though. It could very well be a ECU issue. Is there any possible way i can check the ECU?