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C3L1CA
06-03-2009, 11:36 PM
Don't the passenger side axles have that C-clip to hold them in place? That'd make just pushing it out mighty hard if it did. That is really impressive, at least to me haha, to break off an axle like that.

Halon
06-03-2009, 11:55 PM
It'd be more impressive if it was because of mad powarz. But really it broke because of a dumbass mistake, ha!

asshanson
06-04-2009, 12:31 AM
Making good progress it seems like.

If you take out the rods/pistons won't you have to re-ring it? Or are you just unbolting them from the crank to check out the bearings? Getting new ARP hardware for the rod bolts or just reusing?

Kevin 1G Drummer
06-04-2009, 07:47 AM
The passenger axle has a C clip to hold it in, so getting that stub out is gonna be a bitch. And the round bar thing you saw is the shaft connecting the spider gears in the diff. Good luck with it!

TalonFiero
06-04-2009, 08:38 AM
Sweet, Now I'm not the only one who has broken an axle off in the tranny!

Once you get the diff pin out it will tap out easy with a drass drift punch.

You'll have to split the tranny case to remove that axle. Like Brian already mentioned, you'll have to remove the differential pin to gain you access to the back side of the axle and punch it out.

Hence why I said thats a shitty way to break an axle. :(

Halon
06-04-2009, 08:56 AM
Making good progress it seems like.

If you take out the rods/pistons won't you have to re-ring it? Or are you just unbolting them from the crank to check out the bearings? Getting new ARP hardware for the rod bolts or just reusing?

I wasn't planning on re-ringing. I was just going to take them out, inspect everything, and throw it back in just like how I took it out. Hell that's what I did for the other 3 cylinders when I rebuilt that one cylinder. I removed all the pistons, but only re-ringed the one cylinder. And compression is pretty decent.

I have a dumb question though. If the rings aren't in the exact same position as they were when I took it out (say they rotated ever so slightly) is that an issue? Or do they always rotate slightly in the cylinder under normal operation, and it's not a big deal?

Just wondering if I need to take special care in making sure the rings are in the exact same spot when I take them out, and when I put them back in.



Also, does anyone got a ring compressor I could borrow?

TkrPerformance
06-04-2009, 09:49 AM
you should drive out to craigs store we do get a discount there for style

asshanson
06-04-2009, 10:42 AM
I believe keeping the same general ring location is pretty important, they shouldn't move around on their own. Otherwise there wouldn't be much point in lining up the ring gaps apart from each other on initial install.

Halon
06-04-2009, 06:18 PM
Got the oil pan off, and popped out all the pistons/rods. The #2 rod bearing looked a bit more worn than the others. Enough that I'm going to order new bearings and replace them all just to be safe.

One thing I looked at right away was the piston rings. I had the gaps staggered when I installed them, but they have obviouslly moved since then. 1 piston had both the top ring gaps lining up almost perfect. Are you sure they don't turn somewhat freely during normal operation?

asshanson
06-04-2009, 06:55 PM
Huh, after reading up about it, I guess they do rotate. I'll shutup now and let someone more knowledgeable chime in.

:blind: