Re-torquing ARP headstuds

[scheides]

As everyone saw last saturday my car is puking coolant under high boost (again) - 29psi. When I drive/boost my pump gas map (24psi) it is rock solid, no coolant issues.

So, what's everyone's methodology for re-torquing headstuds? I have run 10k miles since I put the HG in and am going to yank the valve cover to make sure everything's tight. What's the best plan of attack? Just hit it with a torque wrench set for 90 (this is a 7-bolt remember), or crack them loose and re-torque?

Yup, this is basically a shot in the dark, but I'm not ready to yank the head off right now.

Thx for the input.

[scheides]

Side question: how many times can you torque ARP headstuds before they should be replaced?

[95talonracer]

I say back them off, make sure your actual studs are tight and then retorque the nuts back on just incase one or some of the studs are loose.

[FattyBoomBatty]

I say don't loosen them. I've heard about people loosening them then retorquing, but what the hell is the point of doing that if they are already torqued. What "retorquing" does is just make sure nothing has become loose. You are basically checking your work from before. I didn't loosen mine up, and when I checked 'em there was one that was questionable, but the rest were just as tight as when I put 'em in. I've also reused these studs at least 3 times and put torque on them maybe 5 or 6 times. If it all of a sudden becomes easy to turn, then replace 'em. haha.

[scheides]

My only concern with breaking them loose is actually loosening the stud instead of the nut on top. That's what makes me want to just torque them, not loosen them first.

More opinions/experience welcome plz :)

Also, I was WRONG, it does push coolant on low-boost, just not nearly as bad. I did prolly 5 or 6 4th gear rips on the way to the office today....prolly 4-5 3rd gear rips...a few 2nd gear rips, and 4 2nd-3rd-4th NLTS rips. When I got to work, the overflow hose was wet, but not drenched. I could see dry spots inside it, not like it was just puking out.

[Mwolf83]

I've re-torqued mine dozens of times with no issues and they are just the regular off the shelf ARP's not L19's. I just make sure that every time I do re-tighten them I lube them up with moly lube and torque in 3 stages (30, 60, 90).
You probably should call ARP though and see what they actually recommend that you do.

[FattyBoomBatty]

Did you spray copper on the gasket?

oh and to Mwolf83, I did call ARP and they said as long as it's not quite obviously stretched, you can re-use them as much as you want. If the OP used their moly lube when assembling them, there is probably some left on the threads and washers so there's no need to take them off, and he would run the risk, as he mentioned of loosening the studs themselves.

[Kracka]

Did you spray copper on the gasket?
He did, and I wonder if that partially at fault here. Possibly too much? Possibly better off w/o spray?

[FattyBoomBatty]

Yeah, I'm interested in the findings.

[mdost03]

I've always used copper spray on my headgaskets without issues. From what I have read, to retorque ARP headstuds, you back them off loose and then retorque. I've never retorqued them before, mine have always been fine the first time around, but everyone has their own opinion.