Re-torquing ARP headstuds

[4g63tcrazy]

Haven't gotten that far yet, but on page 2, there's some interesting info.

It says that if arps are used and torqued just beyond the recommended torque (which I think is fairly common practice) and THEN the head lifts for any reason, the ARP studs are not to be used again, as they can become stretched and integrity compromised.

Has anyone locally experienced this? If this is in fact true, it could certainly be why my HG is going out again after only 10k miles. The head lifted last fall and when I replaced the headgasket I re-used the same set of ARPs.

Are the L19's really $250? Someone pinch me....can my mere 400whp 4G63 really need these?

Page 3 and on is alot more in depth info and more people running high hp giving their experience. If you lifted the head and torqued the head studs down to the same torque as the first time. Then I would have to say that is FOR SURE why you're head lifted again so soon. If you lifted your head, you stretched the headstuds. Then if you torqued them down the same as before. It's not gonna hold the head down as good second time around.

[asshanson]

Yea, $22 apiece for the basically the best studs out there isn't too bad IMO. I pay $3-$4 for tiny little studs for things like exhaust manifold to head at the hardware store, now that's a ripoff.

And I agree, if you lifted the head I'd torque them another 10lbs, then probably just get the better ones after that.

[scheides]

Well FFS this all makes sense now. I wish I had knew this info before. So the question now is, do I just get another set of regular ARPs at $90 or more than double that for a set of the L19's? Theoretically a brand new set of new standard ARPs should do me fine...Gah, decisions.

So that brings me back to my original question I guess. I'm gonna pop the valve cover off and re-torque. I think I did 88 before, perhaps I should do 93 or 95?

Brandon, I'm thinking of stripping the paint off of my valvecover and shaving it. When would be a good time for you to do a little powder coating for me? :D

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/antilag_200/powdercoatingapril708072.jpg

[4g63tcrazy]

I'd go with 95ft/lbs. That's what I did mine at for the 2nd time.

[scheides]

I'd go with 95ft/lbs. That's what I did mine at for the 2nd time.

A 7-bolt?

[Halon]

If you go too high with the Moly Lube, you could surpass the yield strength of them, enhancing the issue in the future.

I personally would just get the ARP L19's, and be done with it (that is what I ended up doing. L19's are in my parts cabinet waiting for the next time the head comes off).

As for the powder coating, I am always nervous about doing Valve Covers. They can be so picky due to the tiny little corners you have to get into, and the possible outgassing that could occur. We could definately do it, just have to bring it in already stripped and clean and ready to go. Expect to be here awhile though because I take a lot of time on Valve Covers because they are so picky. And there's a real good chance there will be some small blemishes. I'm not a pro, but it should still turn out pretty deng nice. If you wanted to, we'd have to setup a day, as my weekend schedule is always busy as crap. And I need to pick up some more powder I think.

[4g63tcrazy]

A 7-bolt?

No 6-bolt. But like Brandon is saying. I'd go with the L19's and just be done and never have to upgrade ever again.

[scheides]

Brandon,

I'll prolly wait till I pull the head to do the HG (assuming it comes to that) then, this is 4 coats of black and 3 coats of clear.

Looking back, I'm pretty sure I did 87 lbs on them.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Just get the A1 L19 studs and follow the directions that come with them. They are cheap for the Evo/7-bolt compared to 400-500 for a 6-bolt or 600-800 for a Supra.

[FattyBoomBatty]

IMO, I'd really assess your goals with this car. Will you really be taking advantage of the L19's or would you be alright with regular arps?