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View Full Version : Re-torquing ARP headstuds


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scheides
05-12-2009, 02:53 PM
Heres how you do it... Buy some L19s from me, remove the head, put in a new HG without copper spray, and torque to spec.

ok, did we discuss copper/no copper last time I did this? What's the advantage of going no copper? And can you remind me what we discussed for torque? This is a 7-bolt, I think I did 87 or 88 lb-ft last time.

Shane, I think you hit the nail on the head, but I'd like to take 30 mins and try this re-torquing first, just for giggles.

4g63tcrazy
05-12-2009, 03:00 PM
Read from like the 3rd page on of the link I posted. Also when you do the copper spray you need to do it VERY evenly and you can easily over spray in some area's making the surface uneven.

scheides
05-12-2009, 03:01 PM
What's the point then? I'm thinking no to copper spray if/when I pull the head this time.

Kracka
05-12-2009, 03:04 PM
What's the point then? I'm thinking no to copper spray if/when I pull the head this time.
I'm just gonna throw this out there....no spray + new OEM studs :D

4g63tcrazy
05-12-2009, 03:06 PM
Might as well try something different.. Nothing wrong with experimenting!

FattyBoomBatty
05-12-2009, 04:05 PM
I've also reused old headstuds before on one car and it hasn't had any problems, lol. I'd just not use the copper spray. I've never used that stuff, and I've built a LOT of low powered g54b's in my day. That's rep you can't buy.

Halon
05-12-2009, 05:14 PM
Not sure about EVO's, but for DSM's ARP makes L19 studs, that's what I bought. The stud itself is made of the same material as the A1's. But the nuts/washers are the same ones used on the standard ARP's, as they claim that the stud is the weak point, not the nuts.

I do believe on the A1's, the nuts and washers are made from the L19 material though. That's the main difference between them as far as I know.

I'm going to rock the ARP L19's once I get around to taking the head off.

scheides
05-12-2009, 07:30 PM
Read from like the 3rd page on of the link I posted. Also when you do the copper spray you need to do it VERY evenly and you can easily over spray in some area's making the surface uneven.

Haven't gotten that far yet, but on page 2, there's some interesting info.

It says that if arps are used and torqued just beyond the recommended torque (which I think is fairly common practice) and THEN the head lifts for any reason, the ARP studs are not to be used again, as they can become stretched and integrity compromised.

Has anyone locally experienced this? If this is in fact true, it could certainly be why my HG is going out again after only 10k miles. The head lifted last fall and when I replaced the headgasket I re-used the same set of ARPs.

Are the L19's really $250? Someone pinch me....can my mere 400whp 4G63 really need these?

Halon
05-12-2009, 08:13 PM
Looks like the A1 brand ones are, yeah. But don't just look at the A1's, look for ARP L19's. Pretty sure in the DSM world they are slightly cheaper than the A1's.

Do you need them, probably not, but IMO why not, you'll never need anything else again, ever. Using that same mindset, did you really need a 4" FMIC? :) j/k. It's just you'll never have to worry about head studs ever again, no matter how big you go 5 years from now.

I did a quick search and didn't see the ARP's on any of the site vendors websites, but did see them on a competitors website for $219, which saves you $30. And I'm sure one or more of our site vendors would be willing to match that price.

And if it makes you feel any better, yours are cheaper then the ones for 1G's :(

MustGoFaster
05-12-2009, 08:33 PM
Haven't gotten that far yet, but on page 2, there's some interesting info.

It says that if arps are used and torqued just beyond the recommended torque (which I think is fairly common practice) and THEN the head lifts for any reason, the ARP studs are not to be used again, as they can become stretched and integrity compromised.

Has anyone locally experienced this? If this is in fact true, it could certainly be why my HG is going out again after only 10k miles. The head lifted last fall and when I replaced the headgasket I re-used the same set of ARPs.

Are the L19's really $250? Someone pinch me....can my mere 400whp 4G63 really need these?

By "just beyond" are you talking ~5ft-lbs? If so, I doubt 5 ft lbs over would cause any issue. Depending on how close to the yield strength the TQ spec is, it could matter.

Here is ARP's genral info page :
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.PDF/ARPCatalog_0024.pdf

Mine are TQ'd quite a bit higher than the spec. I would not reuse them at this point, as I should be ridiculously close to the yield point. (Hence why I picked the number I did)

And just be glad L19's are that CHEAP. ARP's for a 6G72 are $300. There are 16 VS 10, and they are a little longer, but 3X the price WTF!!!