Does Spaz like the rubber fist?

[polishmafia]

You know, I've got a lot more things to take care of on this damn car before I even start putting money into making it faster.

And I've got a question for you, Jake. Where does a kid fresh out of HS get the money for an Evo?

1 - Finding a job?
2 - He got a job.

:D

[Shane@DBPerformance]

And besides that, there's a slowly growing puddle of oil on the cardboard I park over, the source appearing to be where the head meets the block on the front left of the motor, so I've probably got a bad head gasket if not a cracked block now. And to top that off, the new clutch is slipping, because a couple assholes on here told me it was perfectly fine to boost on it during break-in as long as I didn't launch it.


Are you sure the leak isn't from a crack in the valve cover, the drain hole in the valve cover or spray from dipstick? All of which are common causes for oil over there.

Yes, you shouldn't boost, launch or shift quick on a new clutch if it's an organic disc. But if it wasn't/isn't adjusted right that is a more likely cause of slipping. Or if the rear main or tranny is leaking oil onto the disc. Or the clutch is just to weak for your power. Even if you aren't the nicest to a new clutch, they usually don't fail right away.

[Febo]

...Two wheel bearings are bad, one of which is probably a week or so from failing.....there's a slowly growing puddle of oil on the cardboard I park over, the source appearing to be where the head meets the block on the front left of the motor....the new clutch is slipping, because a couple assholes on here told me it was perfectly fine to boost on it during break-in as long as I didn't launch it...... And I've got a question for you, Jake. Where does a kid fresh out of HS get the money for an Evo?

Which two? If its rears dont worry about it :D if its steers then thats bad.

Puddles of Oil are a DSM marking its territory, no matter where it comes from. I doubt you have a cracked block, and why dont you get in there and clean it super good, then check again in a few days, maybe its coming from the VC.

and when you get some time, pull that clutch and deglaze it, it should still be good :D

Also, dont hate the player, hate the game.

[cmspaz]

Are you sure the leak isn't from a crack in the valve cover, the drain hole in the valve cover or spray from dipstick? All of which are common causes for oil over there.
Valve cover leaks a small amount from that corner, but the oil on the block is fresh, versus the oil on the head that is not, so that would rule out the drain as well. I've also never blown out the dipstick.

Yes, you shouldn't boost, launch or shift quick on a new clutch if it's an organic disc. But if it wasn't/isn't adjusted right that is a more likely cause of slipping. Or if the rear main or tranny is leaking oil onto the disc. Or the clutch is just to weak for your power. Even if you aren't the nicest to a new clutch, they usually don't fail right away.
Disc is kevlar, and they're more prone to glazing. It once held 13 psi in all gears, now it won't hold anything above 10. So I'd say a 2100lb clutch that isn't holding even 200ft-lb at the crank is cooked.

Febo, it's both fronts that are bad. I already had to do both rears this past fall.

[scheides]

Warranty that clutch and the work to install it then, that's unacceptable.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Do you have free play at the top of the clutch pedal? Does it engage low/mid/high?

[Febo]

Junk yard some new hubs and buy yourself some time? Im sure if you go to st. francis salvage you could pull em, and toss em over the fence lol

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Call up Curt Brown and get some of the ceramic wheel bearings he is running. :)

[cmspaz]

The issue being that the work was done by Mitsu, who said they couldn't make guarantees on it. Whether that covers workmanship, I have no idea, I'd assume that if it doesn't I could easily fight for it if something was done wrong.

So you're saying to invoke the warranty through Comp Clutch, and that it should cover both labor and parts(if disc replacement is necessary)?

I'm 100% sure it's my fault because it used to hold, and now it doesn't. Doesn't mean I'll tell that to anyone calling the shots on the warranty, but still...

Clutch engagement is the same it's always been; right at mid, always the same spot.

Ceramic wheel bearings? Sounds interesting. I'll look into that.

[Febo]

If you cant warranty it and the disk is just glazed along with the Pressure plate, then just take some 1000 grit sandpaper and lightly scuff them to take off that glaze, as long as it didnt eff the disk too much you should be good, maybe this doesnt work for clutches, but Id think its worth a shot. lol