Engine Rebuilding... a couple questions

[Goat Blower]

I wouldn't use 10W-30 anything and especially not Mobil 1, it's too thin but will keep your oil pressure down a bit if you haven't ported your relief hole. Go with your favorite flavor of 20W-50 on DSM motors, your bearings will thank you. I personally don't use synthetic anymore, my car doesn't see enough miles in a year to warrant a change, it gets changed every fall for storage regardless of miles.

And Clevites are still one of the most popular bearings in domestic hp engines, just not as popular for imports anymore. They're not that bad, they just need a little clean-up and inspection before using them, which you should do with any bearings anyways. I've installed plenty of Clevites in high horse DSM motors and I've yet to have one fail. I have switched to a different brand for motors now though. :cool:

[Kracka]

Conventional oil begins to break down after about 6 months regardless of miles, synthetics are good for about a year.

[Thor06]

Such information, and dammit I am on break. ;)

Chris, thanks for the oil info. I have heard that Royal Purple needed to be changed more often, and Amsoil and Redline were the others recommended. Unless someone can convince me not to use Mobil 1, I think thats what I will use since it is available up here in B Town where the Talon is and will be used.

I was under the impression that spinning occured from insufficient lubrication, causing the bearing to wear down and thus spin. Thats why I was confused about different sized bearings, thanks for setting that straight.

You are right, I am unfamiliar with rings and their filing. I have rebuilt a few lawn mower engines, it seems the gap between the ends of the rings was something we had to check and occasionally that gap was too small and we had to file it to the right gap. I know there is a direction and a specific way to put the rings in, and I would have known they were automatically fit right once I checked the gap. I just need to know what brand is best and whether or not they need to be checked/filed before I put them in.

Thats what Kevin (the DSM wiseman) told me too, he would give it a couple miles then do a bunch of boost/vac pulls, gradually increasing boost and he would switch to synthetic after the 500 mile oil. What intervals do you change the oil in?

Again, I appreciate all the help from everyone.

[tim]

Just buy rings from your piston manufacturer, any buy a ring filer from Summit. You will also need a set of feeler gauges.

It isnt hard to do, just take your time.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

The problem with doing hard breakin pulls on a turbo car is that it had better have a good tune in it to begin with or else you might damage the motor right away. Most cars don't have any boost, so even giving it enough load to get close to 0psi should be enough cylinder pressure. You want to do some long coast downs from mid RPM while in gear, that will pull a lot of vacuum and seat your rings in. If your rings aren't seated and you don't have full compression within 10-20 miles, then they probably won't ever get better.

[niterydr]

The problem with doing hard breakin pulls on a turbo car is that it had better have a good tune in it to begin with or else you might damage the motor right away. Most cars don't have any boost, so even giving it enough load to get close to 0psi should be enough cylinder pressure. You want to do some long coast downs from mid RPM while in gear, that will pull a lot of vacuum and seat your rings in. If your rings aren't seated and you don't have full compression within 10-20 miles, then they probably won't ever get better.

Exactly.
Do not hit boost, hince the term "vac" pulls. I usually rev a motor out to 2/3 its rev range and let it coast down to 2000rpm or so (usually end up doing 5000-2000rpm pulls).

[Goat Blower]

I usually break in my motors with a few full throttle runs and hit it with a 500-shot of NAWZ, works every time.

[Kracka]

Honda F20/22C engines are run WOT to redline before being dropped (lifted?) into the car.

There are so many different break-in techniques and everyone think's theirs is best. I'd personally follow the advice of your favorite trusted shop. Since LSE and DB agree it makes things pretty simple for you :)

[tjg]

I would use schaffers oil its one of the best oils out there, it has moly in it.

[Thor06]

Wow, thanks guys. I have searched and read for a long time and didnt even get close to that much useful info, thanks to all contributing members.

I have thought a lot about the tune. I am definately planning on having link and a few guages to keep an eye on shit from the time it first starts up. Think I should just run it on the stock tune from the get go, or is there a baseline tune I should use instead?

Thanks for clearing up the vac pull thing for me. So after the vac pulls do you guys just drive it like normal?

Whew, I am excited for this build. This poor car isnt going to fucking get done until about the summer I get out of school (I am a freshman now) but its going to be a fun road there. As much as I want to do this myself, I am starting to get nervous and if she blows again its either getting parked for a very long time or parted so I may have to just get it professionally done. I still gotta get the bitch out of the donor car though.