I give up...

[tpunx99GSX]

Yeah its still the ACT 2100 Pressure plate that was on when the problem started.

[s1ngletracker]

i'd throw a stocker on there or something if you have one lying around. Not really worth buying a new one unless you know its bad.

[JET]

If the pressure plate is bad the fingers on the front should be visibly bad. They will probably be at different heights. I am guessing it is not bled right or it is the master.

[Onefast99gsx]

Master = me too. When I changed all that crap on my 99, it was the master that created the problem in the first place. They relatively easy to change. Just a bitch getting under the dash. I took seat out to make it easier.

My problem was stated clearly in this link

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

A bad master cyl can definately give the appearance of a bad pressure plate.

[s1ngletracker]

yes, but he's saying it looks like the release fork is pivoting all the way. If he's right, then it couldnt be a clutch master or slave. Although "pivoting all the way" can be kinda hard to tell.

what you should do is measure the amount of travel that your slave cylinder piston is getting, and have someone else on here with a good functioning 2g (is that possible? :) ) do the same and see if you're actually getting enough travel out of it.

That will tell you if its in your hydraulic system or in your transmission itself somewhere.

[tpunx99GSX]

The pressure plate looks ok, they are not at different heights, i checked that, the fingers look a little scratched.
I know the system is bled properly, we did at least 10-15 sets of three pumps. Also sidenote: When we were bleeding the clutch, a friend would push the clutch down, i would then open the valve, then close the valve and my friend would have to pull up on the clutch to make it suck more fluid. Should you have to pull the clutch up by hand or should it be able to suck it up by itself?
The reason i am thinking pressure plate, is the LOUD SCREECH, when i push in the clutch, it sounds like metal on metal coming together.

[s1ngletracker]

Should you have to pull the clutch up by hand or should it be able to suck it up by itself?


most of hte time you have to pull it up. That's fine. Just as long as it still bounces back after you've bled it and tightened everything up.

[tpunx99GSX]

Quote from the RRE link...
"When the transmission is first installed in the car and just bolted down to the motor, this is the time to check the wear on the arm and ball. Checking it right that moment will save hours of hassle later! Look at where the arm protrudes out through the square boot on the front lower bell housing. With the arm pushed over towards the passenger side so that the release bearing is just touching the clutch, the arm should be either in the center of the square hole or towards the driver's side of center line.

If the arm is sitting off towards the passenger side, you need to pull the transmission back out and add a washer or two. This gets things back in line. If you don't, the hydraulics in trying to take up all the extra slack, will push the arm over and bottom out on the inner bell housing. If you are fighting clutch adjustment problems on an existing clutch install, get under the car and check this out. If you remove a crossmember to see it better, you can pull off the rubber boot and look in the bell housing with a flash light while an assistant pushes on the clutch pedal. You may see the arm hitting the inner bell housing."
I am going to check this when i get home tonight. I believe its settled towards the passenger side, where it shouldnt be. Hell maybe it is the throwout bearing afterall....

[s1ngletracker]

ding ding ding :)

oh, thats talking about the clutch pivot ball and arm, not the throwout bearing.

[tpunx99GSX]

Just wish i didnt have to take out the damn tranny to replace it. :(