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Kracka
08-16-2006, 03:21 PM
Andy is right, now that you mention this weird screeching noise (although it should have nothing to do with hitting your brakes) it might be the preasure plate since everything else seems good. My thoughts are you might as well replace the master cylinder now too, even if it doesn't cure your problem at least you know its good and won't be leaking anytime in the future. If that doesn't fix it (we'll see, worth a shot) then it'll be time to replace your whole clutch along with a new Mitsu throwout bearing. I suppose you could buy just a new ACT preasure plate since you already have a new disc, but I'd recomend a Centerforce Dual-Friction since its a perfect FWD clutch and is much stronger than the 2100 but no where near as harsh on your system as the 2600. We can discuss clutches some other time though if you want. I can understand you want this fixed for as cheap as possible so then the 21/2600 PP would be the best choice more than likely (but damn do I hate their clutches and constant quality problems).

s1ngletracker
08-16-2006, 03:26 PM
If the shop didn't replace your release fork/pivot it might also need to be replaced or shimmed.

tpunx99GSX
08-16-2006, 04:29 PM
The more we talk abou this the more im thinking its the Pressure plate, which makes me think twice about sending it to a shop. What i may end up doing is replaceing the pressure plate and after that ill take it to a shop. just sucks that i have to take the tranny out again. (hopefully the third time is the charm.)
Another thing. I was thinking, What kind of effect would raising the pivot ball on the thrust bearing rod do? I know it would likely make it so that it will be able to push further, but has anyone done this?
And yes this is a 6bolt so Crankwalk is usually (not always) out of the question. and i verified that it was a 6bolt last night when i looked at the flywheel, one... two... three... four.... five.... SIX, WOO HOO!!!

tpunx99GSX
08-16-2006, 04:34 PM
The only reason i say hitting my breaks, is because the front end is jacked up so the tires can spin freely. When i hit my breaks and clutch at the same time it essentially simulates my car at a stop with the clutch in but in gear.
If i dont hit the breaks i can go through all of the gears and the wheels accelerate on all of the gears.

blageo23
08-16-2006, 04:36 PM
As long as you are taking it out again make sure the the clutch fork and little ball thing it ok. And get a new Mitsu TOB and grease it up. The if this doesnt work then replace the master cylinder. Then Id say bring it to the shop.

Onefast99gsx
08-16-2006, 04:36 PM
Does the clutch disengagement points change when it's cold vs. warm?? I had a severe problem known as 2g pedal pump up. When my car was cold it would disengage like right off the floor. When warm after driving it would disengage almost to the point of where the pedal lies when your foot isn't on it. When it was cold it was hard to get into gear because of the pedal pump up problem. I changed the fork, pivot ball, slave & master and also put on a new S.S. braided line from RRE. I did not shim anything.

I DO NOT think it is your pressure plate.

How about when your car is off? You should be able to put it in every gear, clutch or no clutch.

Sounds almost internal to the tranny, like a shift fork or even a shift rail.

Kracka
08-16-2006, 04:42 PM
There is no reason to shim the ball, that is just a band-aid to temporarily fix a leaky clutch master cylinder since the master cylinder automatically adjusts for it (per Rick Shindley). It may not be a bad idea to replace your fork and ball though, its very possible they have become worn.

s1ngletracker
08-16-2006, 04:43 PM
Another thing. I was thinking, What kind of effect would raising the pivot ball on the thrust bearing rod do? I know it would likely make it so that it will be able to push further, but has anyone done this?


your pivot ball/release fork may be worn so it isnt pushing the pressure plate all the way in. So just replacing fixes it, but i've also heard of times with aftermarket clutches where people need to shim them, make the pivot taller than stock even. all it does is gives your fork more travel. Just an idea. I hear about people having to do it all the time.

tpunx99GSX
08-16-2006, 04:51 PM
When i got the tranny fixed they replaced the 1-2 syncro, the 3-4 syncro, the shift rail the shift fork, and the main rod. when the car is off it can go into all of the gears just fine.
I have replaced so far, the slave cylinder, the clutch plate, it has SS braided lines, the thrust fork is fine, doesnt look bent or cracked, the pivot ball is fine.
It doesnt matter if its warm or cold it doesnt disengage.

s1ngletracker
08-16-2006, 04:54 PM
wait... so you're still running the same pressure plate you were before? My vote is now on that.