3/s problem...

[Gravy]

But much like a DSM as far as how they work... so here goes a quick layout.


Everything on the front of the car came off, and everything went back on. Radiator(with all the plug ins) MAF(plugged in) and all extra items back on.... even the emissions for now. So when i crank the car over, it turns, and turns, and turns, but will not fire. I checked for fuel, i checked for spark and the timing belt is still on, and was not moved. TPS was removed and put back on, and lined up on the same mark. SAFC says the TPS sensor is also reading about 4-5% throttle at all times, but increases with a press on the gas. The odd thing is, i've got the battery in the rear of the car, and went all summer with no issues. Now, after about 45 seconds of cranking it blows the fuse in the line. Given i never had to crank it that long during the summer, it still has me worried. 60 amp fuse and i blew my main, plus my spare and am waiting till tomorrow to re-test it again.

My question is, what's your thought? Nothing was dropped down the intake, there's not clattering or clunking. Compression test will be done tomorrow, but i figure i should get at least one pop or fire from the car.

[311evo]

Boost leak? i think it would still fire though. fuel pump? filter?

[Gravy]

Boost Leak, yes. The whole intake is off, but im just trying to get it to start. Started last fall with the Y pipe off but just ran bad. Now she doesn't even fire or pop.

New Fuel filter last fall, and new Walbro 255 in this winter. Fuel is getting in the combustion chamber.

[niterydr]

Blown fuse is usually a short to ground.

Why did you pull the tps sensor?
You need 3 things to make an engine run. Fuel, Spark, Compression. If you have all 3, you are missing a test, cause you are obviously missing one.

[scheides]

CAS? Do you have any CEL's you could read? A datalogger would be helpful...

[Gravy]

Have data logger, no codes coming up, the check engine light before would come on after about 3 seconds of starting. Pulled it once and it was a faulty idle air control motor if i remember.

Now that i think of it.... i left the heat shield just hanging on the starter... wonder if that's the problem. Could be grounding something out.

I pulled the TPS sensor because i was going to replace both front, and rear turbos, time ran short so i threw the stockers back on for the time being, and will drive the car in stock condition for the time being.

Compression test will be done tomorrow, not feeling good today but i know i've got fuel and spark.

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

Possibly too much fuel, or not enough? Maybe not enough spark? Are you using an adjustable fpr?

[Gravy]

Reading on the forums, almost no one has needed an aftermarket FPR, but then again i did hotwire it... Going dual pumps i see people use it all the time, i may have to look into that and see what my fuel pressure is.

[Gravy]

New post, new issues found.

Still got the never ending cranking. Found out one of the bolts on the ignition bracket was missing, giving me a weak spark on two cylinders. Fixed that, now i re-check, strong spark, fuel, and 120 over the front three while bitter cold. She hasn't run all winter long, and i'm willing to bet it's pretty soaked with gas right now. Re-charging the battery as we speak and figured i'd ask an odd question... or two.

First off, do our vehicles(3/S behaves much like a DSM) require that the reverse switch is hooked up? Ran all last year but for the life of me, that's the only thing that's unhooked right now.

Second, would a non-existent oxygen sensor signal to the ECU cause a similar problem? had one of those fake widebands on there to start with, and from what i saw he only tapped into the line. So i capped off the lines with some electrical tape and kept them up in the A pillar. If i checked the wrong line, and that DOES need to be hooked up... would that cause the problem? And why would i be getting spark, fuel and compression and still not get one pop?