Building a 15g 3KGT VR4, need opinions

[cman3000]

So I bought a 96 VR4 with wrist pin noise, bought a good used engine on ebay, and just picked up a couple TD04HL-15gs. I have a 1g MAF Translator, I'm not sure if that will work or not with a harness splice, and if so, would it be worth using over a different tuning option?

Otherwise, I was thinking something like this:

TD04HL-15g turbos
550cc Injectors
Downpipes and catback
Stock metal intercooler piping
Stock intercoolers
Dejon MAF Adaptor piping
1G BOV
Walboro 255
New Clutch (not sure if necessary)
Boost gauge
Wideband
Emanage Blue

Thoughts?

[turbotalon1g]

I'm not on the up and up with the 15gs but I'd just do twin E316G probably the billet ones.

[cman3000]

Well the 15gs are a direct bolt on, plus they were only $80 a piece. It takes a little more work to get a pair of evos installed.

[turbotalon1g]

ah, ok.

From the little I know, you will need that clutch upgrade. I've seen a few clutches give up with just boost turned up and a downpipe!

[cman3000]

Alright, thanks for the info. Anyone know if I can make that 1g translator work?

[Shane@DBPerformance]

MAFT is a crappy tuning option regardless. 3S's are not as forgiving with poor tuning systems and upgraded injectors as DSMs either.

[cman3000]

Even when coupled with an Emanage blue? What kind of piggyback would you recommend?

[niterydr]

Maf-t and S-AFC isn't to bad, but you have to be careful. Another option is a MAf-T + Emanage. Being a 2g 3/s, you can adapt a 99 ecu as flashing is finally being unlocked (chroming the ecu)

I'd do 15g's in a heartbeat, but make sure the car is healthy first. The stock MAS is good for around 400-450awhp, so you could start with the E-manage and go from there.

A solid clutch setup is needed as the car is heavy and adding torque can put some stress, something full face is recommended.

[cman3000]

Yeah, I was planning on doing the MAF-T and emanage. The engine I bought should be healthy, any checks I should do on it while it is out of the car?

[niterydr]

Why are you pulling the motor?

I'd check the timing belt stuff, vacuum lines, intercooler piping, etc.

[cman3000]

Wrist pin noise from the one that is in it now, I already bought a 95 replacement motor minus turbos and tranny.

[Pushit2.0]

I have never heard a 3/S with wrist pin noise. The factory rod is a press fit on the wrist pin. They are well known for rod bearing issues and lifter tick. I would confirm the noise before swapping motors.

[cman3000]

It has both a lower end noise as well as lifter tick. I have put ~1500 miles on it so far, oil pressure is good. What would you recommend to check the noise, I initially thought it was a rod bearing, brought it to a mechanic and he claimed it was wrist pin noise.

[turbotalon1g]

Pull the pan and visually check the bearings.

[Pushit2.0]

If it was something you could fix with out swapping motors there would be less down time and you would have a back up motor to sell or build.

[Blitzkid]

If it was me, I might hold off on buying the hard pipes and save the money towards a front mount set-up. Modified dsm side mounts would be another option.

Swanny remember my emanage/emanage ultimate /15g set up? Haha

[Pushit2.0]

yah easy bake ovens can stay in the hands of kids, they have no place in a car, let a lone a 3/S.

~John

[niterydr]

Originally Posted by Blitzkid

If it was me, I might hold off on buying the hard pipes and save the money towards a front mount set-up. Modified dsm side mounts would be another option.

Swanny remember my emanage/emanage ultimate /15g set up? Haha

Yeah...while they work (emanage), well work sometimes, not my most favorite option to use on those cars.

[cman3000]

So I had the car up on a lift this weekend, and there is a large dent in the pan. Now I know why a rod bearing went out. Also, I am noticing the car is hitting a wall at 5k in 3rd, it is worse the colder out it is, safe to say I have a boost leak somewhere and am maxing out the MAF sensor?

[FattyBoomBatty]

Did you ever fix that problem?