Someone with a GT35R..opinions.

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 04-16-2005

So the other thread no longer is of any use so Im opening a new one. Now It is turbo choice time. I read on some sights selling them, but they arent very helpful with what I want to know.

Goals low 11s all day.
turbo of choice without knowing alot is the GT35R

Does anyone on here run one? Id like to know how well they funtion and what level of supporting mods are needed.

At-Least-It's-An-Evo · 04-16-2005

There are many people running variations of the GT35"R", just the non BB versions like the GT 3561 from PTE. Others run the FP 3065 SCM61 and SC61 which have the same compressor wheel but different exhaust housings and wheels. What do you want to know?

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 04-16-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by NonTurboSpoolinGuest

There are many people running variations of the GT35"R", just the non BB versions like the GT 3561 from PTE. Others run the FP 3065 SCM61 and SC61 which have the same compressor wheel but different exhaust housings and wheels. What do you want to know?

Ill be running ball bearing. Mike went through alot of it with me but I still want more and he doesnt have the time to be bothered with such questions.

I know supporting mods can make or break setups. What kind of fuel mods will I need to get what I want. FMIC size ( I would prefer smaller but its looking like that cant happen). Spool up rate, possibly a dyno sheet from someones car with this turbo.

Id like to get a person or 2 that can totally go through their setups and help show me what the areas are that need to be watched ( I.E keeping the oil perfectly clean cuz of the BB etc ).

Matt D. · 04-17-2005

Here is what our very own SlowWhite did with his GT3561 on his stock 7-bolt.
456.7whp - 25psi, C16 (climbed to 26psi from 7200-8,000rpms)

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 04-17-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt D.

Here is what our very own SlowWhite did with his GT3561 on his stock 7-bolt.
456.7whp - 25psi, C16 (climbed to 26psi from 7200-8,000rpms)

exactly what I was looking for. thanks matt

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 04-17-2005

Everybody and their brother runs turbos based on the compressor wheel foudn in the GT35R. Just look for anyone saying they run a 61mm or 56-trim turbo. There are some 56-trims that are not that wheel, but it's the wheel people mean most of the time. The main problem with a real GT35R is that it comes with a .82 A/R exhaust housing. That is a bit big for a street 2.0l, even with the dual ball-bearing. We have probably sold 20+ 61mm based turbos to DSM and Honda customers at Elite. Not one has ever opted for the spendy ball-bearing option.

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 04-17-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecoli

Everybody and their brother runs turbos based on the compressor wheel foudn in the GT35R. Just look for anyone saying they run a 61mm or 56-trim turbo. There are some 56-trims that are not that wheel, but it's the wheel people mean most of the time. The main problem with a real GT35R is that it comes with a .82 A/R exhaust housing. That is a bit big for a street 2.0l, even with the dual ball-bearing. We have probably sold 20+ 61mm based turbos to DSM and Honda customers at Elite. Not one has ever opted for the spendy ball-bearing option.

so how do we know its not worth the extra money?

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 04-17-2005

They mostly spoolup quicker between gears, once it is already spinning quick. You don't have to shift quite as fast to keep it in boost when you are racing. Otherwise, they don't do much else. They don't make more power and they don't really initially spoolup all that much quicker. So it isn't worth it to most people who woudl rather spend the extra money on some other part. If you can afford it, go for it.

Pushit2.0 · 04-22-2005

I could find better ways to spend $8xx dollars then getting a ballbearing turbo. As for a set up I made 530whp @35psi on a 60trim t3/t4 with: eagle rods, weisco pistons, act flywheel and 2600 clutch, stock 1g head, HKS 272/272 cams, crower springs/retainers, 880 ball style injectors, 2 walbro pumps, -6 SS line from the pumps to the stock rail, aeromotive FPR, DSM motorsports FMIC top to bottom flow, 2.5" IC piping, tial 35 waist gate, AEM EMS with 5bar map sensor and gm IAT sensor, 3" dumptube exaust for the track, and a few other things. Supporting mods for this gt35R would be a little more then what I had, you might want to look into: Crower rods, crower 415 cams, somthing stronger then a 2600, as big of an Intercooler as you can fit ie 26"w 12"h 4" thick, 2.5" lower and 3" upper IC pipe, SMIM with a bigger throtle body, AEM EMS, 950 injectors, 4bolt rear end, spool or welded or quafe or 4 spidder center diff, a good set of dragradials, roll cage, etc. Or you can hack the hole set up and run 13s all day long.

~John

SlowWhite · 04-22-2005

My set up at the time.
Stock 7 bolt Block
ARP Head Studs
Copper Sprayed Stock Mitsu HeadGasket (non-metal)
K&N Filter w/2G Adaptor
Forced Performance 4" Intake Pipe
Turbonetics T3/T4 Exhaust Manifold
PTE T3/T4 GT3561 with "S" Cover .63 A/R
Custom 2.5" Short Route I/C piping
Apexi Skyline GTR FMIC
Blitz BOV
1G Throttle Body
Magnus 2G Sheet Metal Intake Manifold
HKS 264/272 Cams
FIC 850cc injectors
Tial 38mm Waiste Gate
1.5" Custom Dump Tube Routed back into exhaust
3" Custom Downpipe
3" Apexi N1 Exhaust
Eprom ECU (Socketed)
DSMLINK V2
Walboro 255LP (Rewired)
Act 2600
2x10" Slim Line Fans (1000cfm ea)
Extreme Manual Boost Control.

And a whole lot of Show and Stereo stuff but since you only asked for performance.

403whp, 22psi 92oct (climbing up to 25psi from 7K-8K)
456.7whp, 25psi C16 etc as previously stated by Matt.

18psi went 12.173@113mph, 92 oct and CrankWalked Motor
20psi went 12.2@116mph, " " " "

about 2 weeks later the bearing finally went. Never did get a chance to full pump gas boost, or Race Gas.

But I have a full build being done as we speak. But although the motor will be complete I'll still be about 2 months out on everything else I want to do. My goal is to have it ready for my Brothers wedding June 4th. So I can bring it with.

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 05-03-2005

I think spending the extra cash on the BB version of the gt35R would be worth while due to the gains it will bring to my setup. I also like the fact that not as many people run this turbo. Is a gt40R a bit big for a 4 cyl?.

Jakey · 05-03-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90lazerRST

I think spending the extra cash on the BB version of the gt35R would be worth while due to the gains it will bring to my setup. I also like the fact that not as many people run this turbo. Is a gt40R a bit big for a 4 cyl?.

AMS' Evo is running a 42R.

Pushit2.0 · 05-04-2005

wtf are you trying to build here? Just get a SCM61 and make enough power to break every drivetrain part on the car, and run your 11.

~John

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 05-04-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by GalantVR41062

wtf are you trying to build here? Just get a SCM61 and make enough power to break every drivetrain part on the car, and run your 11.

~John

who said 11s were good enough?

**JET** · 05-04-2005

I agree with John, it isn't worth going BB for the extra couple hundred RPM of spool up. If it was an autoX car, sure, but not a street car. The SCM61 is a solid turbo and is proven. It is a bit laggy on a 2.0, but not terrible. A PTE 50 trim would get you 11's all day long too and spools nice. My .02 psi.

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 05-04-2005

I wouldnt get it souly "faster" spool up. Id get it because its the best you can get. The spool between gears would be one good reason to get it. The way i figured it out, it seems that with a BB the boost would come almost instantly between shifts, thats something that pisses me off about turbos.. having to wait when you were JUST in the boost. I would look into other turbos, but i want a turbo thats capable of a lot more than 11s, my initial goal is 11s though.

Jakey · 05-04-2005

Maybe you should buy yourself a "Super" 50 trim, courtesy of the one and only Bullseye Power.
http://shop.greperformance.com/displ...7&categoryId=2

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 05-04-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90lazerRST

The way i figured it out, it seems that with a BB the boost would come almost instantly between shifts, thats something that pisses me off about turbos.. having to wait when you were JUST in the boost.

Just shift faster then or get an auto. You can run 10s with an SC61/GT35R and you don't even have to be some freak driver or have a freak car to do it.

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 05-04-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakey

Maybe you should buy yourself a "Super" 50 trim, courtesy of the one and only Bullseye Power.
http://shop.greperformance.com/displ...7&categoryId=2

Turbonetics doesn't rate that wheel to flow anymore than a normal 50-trim, even though that GRE Performance place claims it does. The Super "50-trim" isn't even really a 50-trim anymore, they left the inducer size the same(so it can't actually suck in anymore air than a normal 50-trim) and just made the exducer larger, which wouldn't make the math work out to a 50-trim anymore. Making the exducer larger mainly makes it more efficient at even higher boost levels.

slowbubblecar · 05-04-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90lazerRST

I wouldnt get it souly "faster" spool up. Id get it because its the best you can get. The spool between gears would be one good reason to get it. The way i figured it out, it seems that with a BB the boost would come almost instantly between shifts, thats something that pisses me off about turbos.. having to wait when you were JUST in the boost. I would look into other turbos, but i want a turbo thats capable of a lot more than 11s, my initial goal is 11s though.

Do you shift that slow??? I do not see how you could have ever experienced lag with a 14b. If you are in the right gear, boost is not hard to come by. If you are worried about spool up and lag between shifts, you should get a smaller turbo or a N/A car.