My last run, where I had lockout (see video), but I think this was one of my better 60ft's...less of mashing on the gas. I'll check my timeslips later to confirm but thought this was my like 2.1 60 which is still awful bet I was improving.
Well after over 2 weeks since I was at the track, I finally got my lazy ass in gear and changed my oil tonight haha.
Car feels smoother now, some of the oil was getting a bit sludgey almost. No more dominator oil for me, I like the AMSoil AMO better.
Anyway, did some logging tonight, here is my RPM vs. Speed.
I don't know, it doesn't seem to be slipping much if at all. The car missed a bit on this run too. It was also on an entrance ramp, so slightly downhill, a long ramp so not too steep. So the load wasn't crazy. But the clutch doesn't seem too horrible.
Thoughts?
Ps. Been daily driving this for weeks now, I miss this as a daily, drives great! stop and go traffic and all. The clutch got a lot better after a week or so of daily driving. Almost 9k miles on the new motor!
Once you get the glaze of the clutch, it should be feel like it used to. The drag passes with launching and slipping the clutch transfers heat and clutch material to the pressure plate and flywheel surface. It should be for the most part be back to normal, time to turn the boost back up.
Once you get the glaze of the clutch, it should be feel like it used to. The drag passes with launching and slipping the clutch transfers heat and clutch material to the pressure plate and flywheel surface. It should be for the most part be back to normal, time to turn the boost back up.
Never turned it down
Here is the same run in VD.
Running rich as shit. Maybe blend change I guess.
Numbers are inflated some as its slightly downhill.
Also you can see on my real logs the "event" at 6k..where it was kinda missing. Not sure what's happening there.
Otherwise, no knock at all and looks good otherwise.
Had the dynoday today at MAP! Fun times, great turnout. Aside from my hangover in the morning, all was well.
My car didn't really "work" as expected as its breaking up around 6000rpms. You can hear it in the vids. I was hoping maybe it would work on the dyno but no. Going to get my gaps down to .020 or even .018 tomorrow and go for some pulls. Otherwise the car was very consistent and very little knock, few 1's, thats it.
612whp/510wtq yay! And that wasn't even a full pull. I am guessing ~620-630 if I got to rev it out on a clean pull.
Some are a little white, from running a bit lean prolly...but they look ok I guess, no expert here though.
I used this to check gap.
It's knoxvilles, but I am not sure its accurate. according to this my plugs are already at ~.020.
I am going to get some new feeler gauges tomorrow morning before i put them back in, just the thin metal deals on the ring at different sizes. Maybe those will show I need to gap them down a bit. So suggestion for closing the gap...just tap down on wood or something?
I'd check with a set of real feeler gages, that graduated one is tough to get a real reading from IMHO.
Maybe a fresh set of plugs is in order too, considering the trouble others have been having?
Yea, I went out this morning and bought real feeler gauges. Then gapped them to .018, zero problems now! Car pulls smooth all the way up Leaned out up top to ~13:1 though...car was pretty low on fuel though, maybe 9 gallons below full or so, sigh, still need a surge tank.
Zero knock though. Also, ignore numbers, knoxville was with me but its down an entrance ramp, so subtract something like 30whp prolly. Really just showing the curves and the smoothness. Car rips, feels great! 34 psi with cold weather, holding 30psi out to 8700 and still not maxed on wgdc.
Woot! I love making 580+whp dynojet and still leaving some on the table EF4 ftw!
Yep Totally agree, this turbo has some bite, good balance of hp/spool imo. I don't think I will ever get rid of stock frame as I don't need anymore power.
The MAP I have on the car right now is at 90% wgdc right now. I have a 100% one on my ALT MAP but have never tried, never had a desire too as the car is fast already.
Yep Totally agree, this turbo has some bite, good balance of hp/spool imo. I don't think I will ever get rid of stock frame as I don't need anymore power.
The MAP I have on the car right now is at 90% wgdc right now. I have a 100% one on my ALT MAP but have never tried, never had a desire too as the car is fast already.
Careful using it--I turned the boost down on my car from 33 to 30 and it richened up about .6 AFR. I can only surmise that going from 33 to 36 would have a similar semi-linear affect.
What's your peak IDC btw? I haven't checked mine in a while, just curious how those lil'1300's are doing!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlo26
I need to listen to Scheides more often i think :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbotalon1g
...I realized that I can't keep up my shit talking without anything to back it up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JV
S2000: For those of us that know the Miata is the best car on the planet, but also want extra power and to not have to turn in our man cards.
I have two Alt MAPs, one is richer than what I have on there now in case I need it.
Right now, assuming I have proper fuel pressure and the basket is full, the car is running plenty rich at mid 11's.
I don't plan to use the ALT map ever at this point, I see no reason. I am not so concerned with numbers as I used to be. I prefer a car that I know everything is running correctly and stays that way.
IDC's I am not sure. My log from the dynoday is all screwed up, the column headers aren't in the right spots. But my guess from looking at it, is ~97%.
I plan to buy the new ID1300's when they come out too. The DW's just don't feel very stable. I feel like I could have a better injector and ID's are always solid. I hope ID does do 1400's though instead to give me some room.
Well typical bad ideas running through my head with no evo to drive and only forums to keep my car urges satisfied until spring. Starting to look at upgrades/changes to make for spring.
I am in heavy debate about switching to a full t3 setup and running the GTX3576 turbo. However, that will cost me 1500-2k depending on how much I sell my current setup for and realistically won't make much more power if any. So then I started looking at the 6262 or 6266 turbos...then I need to redo fuel system again.
Part of me wants to just do intake mani, ported throttle body and then figure out a surge tank setup and work on removing weight (new seats, new driveshaft, new small breaks etc etc).
So I am still not sure what to do. I will for sure be changing injectors. To either the new ID1300's that I think are supposed to be coming out or maybe the FIC 1600 area ones that are coming out to give me some headroom.
That vs. the MAP rev 3 intake mani porting. What are peoples experience with the golden eagle stuff, worth it? Pricing wise its close to the MAP rev 3 but I know for sure what I am getting with the MAP ported OEM piece. The rev 3 seems safe but this piece seems a lil risky like I might spend money on something that doesn't do shit for my setup. But on the other hand a proper aftermarket manifold should yield great results if designed right.
IM/TB are definitely big restrictions for you right now; focus on those before upgrading the turbo any further. Scratch the idea of small brakes, those are really for drag only since you get one good stop out of them. I wouldn't feel comfortable on the highway with them. My friend down here with his 2,250 lb. VIII autocross car runs the AMS Wilwood drag brakes and he said no way in hell would he track with them since they heat up too quickly...and that car is over 1k lbs. lighter than yours. 2-piece rotors and an aluminum driveshaft would be good ways to drop substantial rotational mass though.
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