Adjustment or Something Else?

**LingLing** · 03-05-2010

So just tonight it's been starting to grind going in to 1st when I'm slowing down to a stop or when I'm stopped, and going in to 3rd when I'm shifting under normal driving conditions. In both instances the clutch will be all the way to the floor. I haven't really been beating on it, no launches, a few 2nd to 3rd pulls and 3rd to 4th but nothing crazy since I'm still getting used to the car. The clutch is good, It grabs hard and doesn't slip.

I've been thinking about adjusting the clutch a bit, because it seems to grab really low off the floor, and there's moderate play at the top. The shifter components could probably use some freshening up too. It doesn't feel terrible, but I think the throw could be tightened. From what I can tell the shifter is a cut stock unit.

I'm debating about dropping the cash on the JNZ short throw because it seems it's the only quality option for the 1g. I've also been debating on getting some sort of shift bushing replacement.

In no way am I implying Kevin sold me something that is on the way out. For all I know it could just be me. I'm not sold on any diagnosis yet, as it has only started tonight. Any feedback would be appreciated.

s1ngletracker · 03-05-2010

I believe you can adjust the clutch MC rod... I'd do that to get engagement off the floor a bit and eliminate some of the freeplay. It will require some cortonionism though.

I wouldn't waste your time with a short throw. A cut stock unit is basically the same thing. I'd take out the center console, eliminate the rubber base bushings and just use washers, don't need anything fancy. Also, make sure the pivoting assembly is tight and doesn't have any play. Just look at it as you shift around to the different positions with the center console/boot out. If you see some weird movement that shouldnt be there, you may need to replace bushings, I believe you can get them from Mitsubishi. Or just find someone parting a car out with a good shifter assembly. Could just be some loose bolts down there too.

I wouldn't be surprised either that your car grinds. I've never had a DSM that doesn't grind at least a bit in certain gears in certain situations.

**LingLing** · 03-05-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1ngletracker

I believe you can adjust the clutch MC rod... I'd do that to get engagement off the floor a bit and eliminate some of the freeplay. It will require some cortonionism though.

I wouldn't waste your time with a short throw. A cut stock unit is basically the same thing. I'd take out the center console, eliminate the rubber base bushings and just use washers, don't need anything fancy. Also, make sure the pivoting assembly is tight and doesn't have any play. Just look at it as you shift around to the different positions with the center console/boot out. If you see some weird movement that shouldnt be there, you may need to replace bushings, I believe you can get them from Mitsubishi. Or just find someone parting a car out with a good shifter assembly. Could just be some loose bolts down there too.

I wouldn't be surprised either that your car grinds. I've never had a DSM that doesn't grind at least a bit in certain gears in certain situations.

Yeah, I was thinking about practicing my flexibility skills and adjusting the MC rod. Can someone tell me what size that nut is? I'll have to go out and buy a wrench since all my tools are 2 hours away haha.

I'll start with adjusting the the MC rod, and throw some washers on there too. Thanks for the feedback.

123abc · 03-05-2010

It's either a 12 or a 10. Loosen up the lock nut and on a good mc you should be able to twist the rod with your fingers. No washers involved either. Once you get under the car and have a look at how things work it's pretty easy to figure out what to do.

**LingLing** · 03-05-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by 123abc

It's either a 12 or a 10. Loosen up the lock nut and on a good mc you should be able to twist the rod with your fingers.

Great, I'll go pick myself up a high quality wal-mart wrench tomorrow haha.

1QUICK4 · 03-05-2010

Make sure the nut securing the pedal assembly to the master isn't loose. after you push the clutch in and let it out, grab the pedal and pull up. If there is any freeplay it is most likely one of your problems.

It's common as hell on 1G's. If it's loose for two long it will round the keyway off the pedal assembly.

Taboo used to have a right up about removing it and welding it but if you pull the pedal up and tighten the shit out of it, it will be good for a long time.

Make sure there isn't any slack before you adjust the rod

Quote:

Originally Posted by 123abc

It's either a 12 or a 10. Loosen up the lock nut and on a good mc you should be able to twist the rod with your fingers.

Yep, if it wont move easily just wiggle the pedal and it should spin with ease

turbotalon1g · 03-05-2010

10mm. I have some base shifter bushings if you need.

**LingLing** · 03-05-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1QUICK4

Make sure the nut securing the pedal assembly to the master isn't loose. after you push the clutch in and let it out, grab the pedal and pull up. If there is any freeplay it is most likely one of your problems.

It's common as hell on 1G's. If it's loose for two long it will round the keyway off the pedal assembly.

I didn't think about that. Good call, I'll be sure to check that too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

10mm. I have some base shifter bushings if you need.

Awesome, thanks! I'll let you know if I need those or not. I'll be doing all this tomorrow.

sleepydsm · 03-05-2010

Don't downshift into first.

Kevin 1G Drummer · 03-05-2010

The cables already have bushings in them on the transmission side, and I still have the bushings for the shifter base. I was gonna throw them in the car on tuesday before you picked it up, but I forgot.

When I installed the new master a year and a half ago I'm pretty sure I left it adjusted all the way out, but it's possible something could have loosened up in that time. One more thing you could try is to re-bleed the slave. When I installed the new slave about a month ago I just gave it a quick bleed, and it's possible there's still a little air in the system somewhere. It would grind into first or reverse for me every once in a while, but I never had any grinding issues with any other gears.

Also, I never did anything with the clutch pedal assembly, and it's possible that could be getting worn out as well, it is an 18 year old car. There's a mod you can do that involves a little welding that should take care of any play there may be in the pedal assembly.

**LingLing** · 03-05-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepydsm

Don't downshift into first.

I'm not engine braking in first, I'm shifting in to first with the clutch in rolling >5mph.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin 1G Drummer

The cables already have bushings in them on the transmission side, and I still have the bushings for the shifter base. I was gonna throw them in the car on tuesday before you picked it up, but I forgot.

When I installed the new master a year and a half ago I'm pretty sure I left it adjusted all the way out, but it's possible something could have loosened up in that time. One more thing you could try is to re-bleed the slave. When I installed the new slave about a month ago I just gave it a quick bleed, and it's possible there's still a little air in the system somewhere. It would grind into first or reverse for me every once in a while, but I never had any grinding issues with any other gears.

Okay, I'll those things out too. I know it's not something major. Everything works great, might just need some fine tuning. Thanks again Kevin.

123abc · 03-05-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepydsm

Don't downshift into first.

Why not? Rev matching makes 1st gear a breeze.

4g63tcrazy · 03-06-2010

I never go into 1st gear til I'm fully stopped. It bothers the shit out of me when I see people forcing it into first when rolling to a stop. Just be easy on it and wait til your fully stopped. No reason to make your syncro's work any harder than they have to. Also when you do adjustments to the rod, make SMALL adjustments and test it out. Small adjustments will make a big difference. There is also supposed to be a little bit of slop at the top of the pedal travel. I think it was about an 1" of slop IIRC.

blackrosenova400 · 03-06-2010

Test if you need to adjust first.

On even pavement, with the clutch pedal to the floor, parking brake released, put it in first gear and rev up the engine to your redline. If your car moves your clutch is dragging and is causing poor syncro engagement. If it doesnt move then theres a good chance the syncros are worn.

If it is your clutch dragging, adjust it immediatly as driving it this way kills syncronizers.

123abc · 03-06-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4g63tcrazy

I never go into 1st gear til I'm fully stopped. It bothers the shit out of me when I see people forcing it into first when rolling to a stop. Just be easy on it and wait til your fully stopped. No reason to make your syncro's work any harder than they have to. Also when you do adjustments to the rod, make SMALL adjustments and test it out. Small adjustments will make a big difference. There is also supposed to be a little bit of slop at the top of the pedal travel. I think it was about an 1" of slop IIRC.

I guess I've never had a problem on my DSM's going into first while moving. I figure as long as it goes into gear fine without any grinding, its golden. I can see bad things happening though if people do that on a car with bad disengagement.

**LingLing** · 03-06-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4g63tcrazy

when you do adjustments to the rod, make SMALL adjustments and test it out. Small adjustments will make a big difference. There is also supposed to be a little bit of slop at the top of the pedal travel. I think it was about an 1" of slop IIRC.

Gotcha, I'll keep that in mind, when I break my neck to get to it lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackrosenova400

If your car moves your clutch is dragging and is causing poor syncro engagement. If it doesnt move then theres a good chance the syncros are worn.

If it is your clutch dragging, adjust it immediatly as driving it this way kills syncronizers.

So what you're saying is I lose either way hahahaha. I'm pretty sure the pedal needs adjustment or the pedal assembly is just getting old. Both of which are understandable. I'm gonna grab 10mm/12mm wrench today and test my flexibility. I'll keep you guys updated.

Thanks for all the input!

twack · 03-06-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by LingLing

Great, I'll go pick myself up a high quality wal-mart wrench tomorrow haha.

wait....you bought kevins badass car and you dont even have any tools to work on it.........please dont tell me your in over your head

**LingLing** · 03-06-2010

LOL I have tons of tools at my parents house (Used to work @ Saturn)...which is 2 hours away, don't feel like driving that far for a wrench. And it'd be cheaper for me to buy a wrench than to drive all the way up there and back.

CarPsyco84 · 03-06-2010

It's pretty common to have the clutch assembly so loose that the master isn't long enough to take up all the play, at which point there are 2 options, make the threads on the master longer or fix the pedal. Option 2 is a PITA unless theres a trick to welding them in the car.

**LingLing** · 03-06-2010

Adjusting the clutch a bit fixed everything! Thanks for the input guys!