Manifold nuts that work.

[iceminion]

Since I continue to see members' vehicles with exhaust manifolds slowly working themselves off of the car one nut/stud at a time, I think it is a great time to share some advice that has made my life so much easier.

The stock hardware is copper(alloy) prevailing torque nuts, they are slightly out of round, and offer resistance. Over time they lose their tension, and are no longer able to pinch themselves on the studs.

The corner store hardware solution is M8x1.25 nuts, 1/2" (13mm) with or without lock washers....this does work, but after time, the heat causes the lockwashers to fail. I purchased a SS hardware kit from SBR....and some of the nuts have walked off completely and are now lost....I am not blaming SBR, probably my mistake.

The best solution for DSM's is to go to the junk yard and grab a set of Honda exhaust manifold nuts, attached is a picture, I slapped these bad boys onto my DD DSM and not one has moved an inch.

I am much happier with this solution then any other "kit" online that you can buy

-Fin

[Super Bleeder!!]

On my gvr4 i used the spendy ass ARP exh studs, which looked great and loosened up super fast no matter how many times they were retorqued.

On a different engine i used the cheapy exh stud kit from ssstuds.com, and its held firm so far, about 8k miles.

[cmspaz]

Hmmm... I was going to take care of my loosening manifold tomorrow. I might have to look into this.

[scheides]

Let me get this straight, you admit to buying something from Slowboy Racing on this forum.....and then go on to say it didn't work well!??! OMG!

Here's another solution: buy new nuts from the mitsubishi dealership. They're cheap and they don't come loose for another 100k miles!

[Super Bleeder!!]

btw good job finding random junkyard stuff to work.

Always enjoy your posts, mad scientist.

[iceminion]

Originally Posted by scheides

Let me get this straight, you admit to buying something from Slowboy Racing on this forum.....and then go on to say it didn't work well!??! OMG!

Here's another solution: buy new nuts from the mitsubishi dealership. They're cheap and they don't come loose for another 100k miles!

1.) I like stainless steel hardware, and when some parts of the kit are missing, i get frumpy, however please note that i attributed the lost hardware to my improper install.

2.) I have purchased new dealership nuts....they are holding up OK on my GVR4, but I also needed washers...and they were not as cheap as junkyard hardware. And they are not always in stock, I remember purchasing the last 7 nuts from them, thank god I use the 10mm outer studs.

3.) Why hasnt anyone commented on how I secured the turbo to manifold bolts? (in pic)

[cmspaz]

Originally Posted by iceminion

3.) Why hasnt anyone commented on how I secured the turbo to manifold bolts? (in pic)

Believe me, I noticed it, but when it comes down to it, if it works, it works.

[4seasons69]

I've always just got new ones from the dealer and never really had a problem

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

I've been using the same nuts and studs that came on my car when I got it, and I haven't touched them since I put it together 2.5 years ago. Not one has loosened up at all.

[Pushit2.0]

Have you re-torqued them when its hot?

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

I did that after the first couple heat cycles and haven't had to touch them since.

[niterydr]

Originally Posted by Pushit2.0

Have you re-torqued them when its hot?

Why would you bother checking tension under operating conditions?

+1 with Chris's suggestions of using OEM hardware. Never had a problem with new bolts.

Good idea with the honda bolts, never would have thought of doing that.

[Halon]

I have maybe 4 SS nuts left from my FFWD SS stud kit. They always work themselves loose. I pretty much have always just lived with the fact that every month or so I just go and retorque them. Maybe I oughta try some dealer ones.