my new project - Page 24

**Murlo26** · 05-15-2013

My current motor build I ran normal oil til 3k to be safe. My first motor build I switched at like 1000.

I would go longer but I have nothing to back that up. I think Gosh told Danny at DB to try using the regular stuff longer the second time around.

**4seasons69** · 05-15-2013

Hmm yeah map recommends 1500 miles. Most say at least 1k. I'll probably just find a good heavy conventional and run that until 1500 or so

blackawdtsi · 05-15-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4seasons69

paranoid that the will cause a problem. I just over think things. Bearings will be reused. And it will be using to a good heavy oil.

Anyone have any opinions on switching to synthetic before 1k miles? I'm thinking about switching to synthetic when I get it up and running. Is 625 miles too soon?

Valvoline VR1 non synthetic is probably your cheapest safe bet. Throw in a break in additive if you're keepin with the paranoid theme.

**4seasons69** · 05-15-2013

Thanks! I'll check that out. I ran amsoil break in oil for the first 250 miles so right now I think I'll stick with a regular conventional.

blackawdtsi · 05-15-2013

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf

**4seasons69** · 05-15-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackawdtsi

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf

That's a good read! I think I've heard about that but never actually read it. I will definitely be using one of the oils off of that chart.

**Tachyon** · 05-15-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4seasons69

That's a good read! I think I've heard about that but never actually read it. I will definitely be using one of the oils off of that chart.

Remember when I mentioned using 50 weight V-twin stopped my rod spinning issues?

**4seasons69** · 05-15-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tachyon

Remember when I mentioned using 50 weight V-twin stopped my rod spinning issues?

I do! And that is exactly what I'm planning on using. :-)

turbotalon1g · 05-15-2013

VR1 racing 10-30 looks like a good buy.

**4seasons69** · 05-15-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

VR1 racing 10-30 looks like a good buy.

Indeed! I will worry more about oil when we are closer to starting this thing up again

bramagedained · 05-15-2013

I'm still running non-synthetic VR1 20w50 in my car. All I can say is it works fine in my motor. It's relatively cheap and you can buy it pretty much anywhere.

**4seasons69** · 05-16-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by bramagedained

I'm still running non-synthetic VR1 20w50 in my car. All I can say is it works fine in my motor. It's relatively cheap and you can buy it pretty much anywhere.

Good to know. I will keep this in mind.

turbotalon1g · 05-16-2013

If you change oil enough I'd run non-synthetic.

**4seasons69** · 05-16-2013

Well if this thing ever runs for more than 200 miles at a time I plan on changing the oil probably very 2 to 3k miles whether I stick with conventional or go synthetic.

turbotalon1g · 05-16-2013

I'd say find a good non-syn with good zinc and phos. then if you get to that point switch.

dsmolition · 05-20-2013

I hope everything goes good for ya, its crazy how similar your car looks to mine in that video.

**4seasons69** · 05-20-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsmolition

I hope everything goes good for ya, its crazy how similar your car looks to mine in that video.

Thanks! That must be one nice looking car then!

**4seasons69** · 05-21-2013

So here's a little update. Haven't done much with the car but I have an oil pump and timing belt on its way. Hopefully it will be here sometime this week. Then the plan is to put that stuff in and re-time the engine and do a compression test. The if the compression test is bad (I'm assuming it will be. I find it hard to believe there won't be bent valve) I'll do a leak down test to find out where we're losing compression. Then we'll go from there

Also once the car is ready to be fired up again before I do my going to tow it to my work and do an engine flush. My work has a machine that hooks up to the oil filter housing and where the drain plug goes and runs an oil based cleaning solution through the oiling system. Hopefully that will remove any metal left in any oil passages.

Now I just need some motivation to work on this thing lol

evotuner · 05-21-2013

Hang in there man, just think 700hp is just a few more tear downs away haha, just kidding!! Im very excited to see this beast put down, ive been following this thread for quite some time

**4seasons69** · 05-21-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by evotuner

Hang in there man, just think 700hp is just a few more tear downs away haha, just kidding!! Im very excited to see this beast put down, ive been following this thread for quite some time

Haha with my luck it will be a few more tear downs before things go well for me lol. Well hopefully things go well after its back up and running! You and the people on this site have definitely helped keep motivated to keep working on this thing! Thanks!