Do you or have you ever ran a PTE SCM series turbo?

Onefast99gsx · 02-26-2005

I have a PTE SCM-50 trim. It's .60 A/R comp housing. If you ran/run this turbo, what kind of clearance issues did you have with the water pipe? I'm just wondering if you have to dent it or did you use a thick spacer between the manifold and turbine housing. If you used a spacer, how thick?

Just trying to get a heads up on what i'm running into down the road as i get closer to mounting this thing.

Thanks.

PS- SCM series turbos bolt directly to the factory mitsu exhaust manifold.

At-Least-It's-An-Evo · 02-26-2005

They fit w/o denting.

john · 02-27-2005

I couldn't tell ya. I had the same turbo for ~1500 miles. I was told I needed a spacer plate and I got one. I know a buschur 20g will not fit though. I recommend the spacer plate. I know somebody who ruined a water line trying to pound it. Ofcourse he didn't figure it out until everything was all back together and he decided to use the spacer plate

I may have an extra...

john · 02-27-2005

A 3/8 inch spacer plate worked for me. I just found someone selling flanges for "build your own header."

**JET** · 02-27-2005

You don't need to dent anything and you don't need a spacer. That is just one more place to get an exhaust leak. The T04E cover fits without denting. My T04S cover I had to make about a 1/4" dent, not much.

You'll love that 50 trim, it is a great street turbo.

Onefast99gsx · 02-27-2005

Thanks everyone for the great responses. Sounds like all i'll need is the metal 7cm gasket. I ran that 7cm gasket with my old 16g turbo. It was about 1/8" thick and got it from Extreme for a crazy $20+.

john · 02-28-2005

Mitsu carried the 7cm gaskets.

**Halon** · 02-28-2005

Please after the install can you state whether or not you had to dent it. I had to dent the one on my 2g when I installed my Garett 50-trim kit. But I'm interested in knowing if you acually do have to dent it with this PTE. Thanks and good luck!

**Halon** · 06-26-2005

Sorry to bring this thread up from the dead, but I am having this issue with my TO4E cover. The little notch on the back of the compressor housing is hitting that little bung thing that comes off the bottom of the water pipe that normally has a line connected to it going to the turbo. I am going to plug that hold once I get a plug for it, but this little bung is really in the way, and it seems I am going to have to beat the crap out of this to get it to fit. Everywhere I read people had to dent this A LITTLE, and I had to dent mine A LITTLE on my GST, but this time around it seems I have to not dent anything, but actually beat this to hell and bend that bung an inch backwards for this to clear. I am going to try turning the compressor cover later on and see if that helps. If that doesn't work, I heard about people bending a bracket on that main water line to create a little more clearance. If that doesn't work, is there anywhere local that sells these extra spacer plates you guys were talking about?

TalonFiero · 06-27-2005

On my 2g and TO4E PTE turbo I dented the pipe slightly. I didn't think I was going to have to dent it but the compressor housing was bending the pipe when I bolted it down. I took the turbo back off and pounded on the pipe ever so slightly with a ball peen hammer.

Didn't take much, it wasn't a big deal at all, wouldn't stop me from buying a PTE turbo or run out and by a spacer.

Jim

x-pride · 06-27-2005

I had issues with the water line on the water pipe for the old turbo with my 56 trim. I just loosen the intake side of the housing and turned it a little and it cleared the pipe and the old water line. For the old water line I just looped it. back to the thermastat housing. If all case fell just get non turbo water pipe.

Onefast99gsx · 06-27-2005

Holy cow! somebody resurrected my old thread. LOL Yes, i had to dent the water pipe. Probably a 1/4" deep by 1 1/4" long. I also ground the little nub on the compressor housing. Those measurements are estimates. I pounded it, tried it, pounded it, tried it. etc... until it fit. That way i didn't excessively bash it in more than needed. The little nub, just grind her down pretty good so there's still about 1/8" of meat from the edge to the threads. Don't want to grind into the threads! Then you've went too far.

You'll end up with 'What do i do with the water lines now?" For the one that goes into the block, I just used a Oil pan plug. They are the same thread. I put a little plumbing teflon tape on it too. Also, cut the plugs tip so that it's right upto the threads. Alot of oil plugs have about 1/8" of extra material before the threads. You don't need any crush washers on this. My plug already had a little plastic washer.

For the water pipe, i just went from the water pipe, to a little piece of hose(just cut the one that was there), to a hose barb that has a plug on it. I used 2 little radiator type clamps. I have over 800 miles on car since getting it back together and everything works great!

PS- I found it was easier to mount the turbo assembly to the exhaust manifold and then install it as 1 big unit rather than putting the exhaust mani on and then trying to hold the turbo up in the air to get a bolt started in it. Too dam heavy to do by yourself.

Holler if any more questions.

Enes · 06-27-2005

I just had QPR make me a spacer... can't go wrong with a spacer, 2 gaskets and you are fine... polished port matched spacer...

-E

Onefast99gsx · 06-27-2005

Yeah- Brian(Slowwhite) said the same thing. I think it was around a 1/4" thick spacer or so(can't remember). I actually could of made the spacer at our shop but after working on the car everynight since November, the hammer was easier to pickup than the die grinder and plasma tool. LOL!

john · 06-27-2005

I may have an extra spacer plate. I will check. Be carefull on hitting the water line. We did that once and put everything back together just to find out that there was a pinhole leak in the fucker. Had to swap the line and do it the right way with longer studs and a spacer plate. I will let you know.

Onefast99gsx · 06-27-2005

Yeah, i used the flat of the hammer not like the edge or something that would make a sharp and leak prone edge on the water pipe. Just use commonsense. The spacer would be best though. Just keep in mind that everything will sit at least 1/4" lower then. So if you have a hard return line, that may be affected. I have a flexible braided type so it wouldn't of hurt me if i went that route. Just a heads up.

john · 06-27-2005

On the 3 cars I have used a spacer plate I have not run into a problem with a return line. Most of them have a flex section and if it is a PTE oil line kit, you have a rubber hose. His got a leak on the back of the line kind of where the line bolts to the block. Small hole right on the seam. I was so pissed off replacing it.

**Halon** · 06-27-2005

That coolant pipe is REALLY in the way, and I'm going to have to beat the crap outta that small bung coming off the bottom. So I'd probably be denting it to the point where a leak could easily sprout up. Let me know if you have one of those spacers!! I wasn't able to try turning the comp housing today because the weather today was nuts! Hopefully I get to try it out tomorrow.

Onefast99gsx · 06-27-2005

What small bung coming off the bottom? Are you referring to the "L" shaped 1/4" or so dia. aluminum pipe?