Clutch Problems

iceminion · 11-20-2007

I have a L4 Competition Clutch w/fidenza flywheel, all new.

I drove the car, but the clutch was not dis-engaging properly, so I red up on TREs website, and it says that you have to shim the pivot ball in order for the clutch to work properly.

So i pulled the trans off, threw a couple washers under it and put it back on the car, so here is a picture of how the clutch fork sits.

What i NEED TO KNOW is: is this the right resting place for the fork? keep in mind this clutch is completely different then a mitsu or an act clutch , the fingers on the pressure plate are almost completely flat

I DO NOT WANT TO PULL MY TRANS AGAIN, IT WAS GAY.

so, is this the correct?

Thanks alot!

**4seasons69** · 11-20-2007

it looks alright. it should be towards the drivers side of the center line of the release fork. look on vfaq theres a good bit about it on there.

blageo23 · 11-20-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceminion

keep in mind this clutch is completely different then a mitsu or an act clutch , the fingers on the pressure plate are almost completely flat

How is that different then an ACT? Mine are flat and so was my stock one(if I remember correctly). Have you tried adjusting the clutch pedal? Or maybe try an extended slave rod(I have one for sale).

Pushit2.0 · 11-20-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceminion

... threw a couple washers under it...

1 #10 washer does the trick, a couple might be to much. And when did a 1g clutch job become hard?

~John

turbotalon1g · 11-20-2007

^ i have no idea, i like to pull my transmission, 1hr at home on the floor that includes when i was passed out under the car too.

Super Bleeder!! · 11-20-2007

Hey come on give him some credit. Pulling trannies sucks, no one can deny that.

iceminion · 11-20-2007

I have pulled at least ten transmission with ease on DSMs

This is on a GVR4, which is a hybrid DSM/3000GT platform, something is difficult which made this just a little more difficult, I am used to doing the transmissions on the ground and this time I am doing it on a drive on hoist, that might also account for the difficulty. Anyways, its gay and I dont want to do it again.

I couldnt get the clutch to let go when it was un-shimmed, I put a socket on my slave cylinder rod, which allowed me to shift in to gear (barely) and thats how I got to drive the car.

Now, after the shim, my socket extension removed, I can get the clutch to let go, but still dangerously close to the floor (I tested this out by putting a 1/2 racket on the crank bolt, and trying to turn as hard as possible, and having my brother push down on the clutch pedal.

Straight from TREs website: "...and don't be tempted into trying a lengthened clutch slave cylinder rod. The only way to properly correct the clutch offset geometry is by shimming the pivot ball. By properly shimming the pivot ball your clutch will work much better and your transmission will thank you."

So now that I have corrected the geometry of the clutch, one would assume that it all works out fine, WRONG, still screwed.

so, how do i get this damn clutch to let go about 1/2 way through the pedal travel?

I can try putting the socket on the end of the slave cylinder rod, and since that helped before the shim, one would think it would help after the shim.

anymore input anyone? the system has been bled properly, master and slave are not leaking, do you think I should replace the master? I have a new one, but its not easy for a huge motherf*cker liek myself to get down there and unbolt everything.

Thanks

**JET** · 11-20-2007

You adjust the adjuster rod for the master cylinder. Prepare to turn into a pretzel, it is inside the car, direcly behind the master cylinder. It will be up above the gas pedal on the fire wall. It is a little black threaded rod.

iceminion · 11-20-2007

Yeah, about that, its already 95% the way out, I can maybe get one or two turns out of it, but thats it.....

**JET** · 11-21-2007

That is where the extended slave rod bandaid comes in to play. There is a good chance the pedal assembly has some slop in it, which adds to the problem.

iceminion · 11-21-2007

there is ZERO slop in the clutch pedal assembly, there is an extremely small amount of play in the master cylinder pin thingie that connects the U shaped piece of metal that spins to the pedal assembly, but thats not even worth talking about.

I am sure that I could band-aid this situation, I just want to know how many of you have to band-aid their cars, and is this just a symptom of using different clutches/flywheels or should I go ahead and replace the master cylinder, its not leaking, so I dont think I will see any difference...

and will using the band-aid cause the TOB to wear out? always having pressure on it?

Thanks

**JET** · 11-21-2007

I have used 3 ACT's, 2100, 2600 and 2900 and a twin disk. None have needed bandaids. A weak slave did cause the issues you are describing on the 2900. How hard is your clutch pedal to push?

iceminion · 11-21-2007

Not hard at all.

There is a huge spring on the clutch pedal that I have never seen on a DSM before, to make it lighter while depressed, I assume its for GVR4s only.

Then again, when I had my 2600 in there, I remember the clutch being pretty freaken heavy.

I will just buy a new master and slave cylinder, cant hurt right?

God, this car is nickel and diming me to death!

Pushit2.0 · 11-21-2007

Bent throw out fork is my guess.

~John

iceminion · 11-25-2007

sadly, I dont have another fork to compare this one to, it doesnt look bent to me.

If this is my stock fork, it worked great with the 2600, if it is NOT my stock one then it has to be out of a car with a less then 2600. All my dsm parts kinda got mixed up when I had all the cars taken apart....

but chances are its not bent, can you tell from the picture? I assume its going to be a tiny amount of bending.

I have my cannon with me now, I can get a higher quality pic, assuming that you can diagnose a bent forlk when its in the car...