Over revving issue - Page 3

**Halon** · 06-03-2009

Brian, you ever worked in a tranny much before? The most I've done is replace a couple shift forks. It'd be nice to have someone stop by sometime who knows a little more about what they're looking at inside it, and maybe help see if everything is ok.

TalonFiero · 06-03-2009

Damn, what a shitty way to break an axle.

Looks like you found most of your problems Brandon. Are you going to try something other than a stocker HG this time?

**Halon** · 06-03-2009

Nope, I've got another OEM Composite one ready to go in. I'm hoping with the L19's, it'll hold better this time. If not, well then time to finally consider upgrading past the OEM composite one. I've stuck with this HG the whole time because it's usually never failed me. This is the one time, and not even sure if it was the HG's fault.

mike55112 · 06-03-2009

Hope it all goes smooth for you, Im going to be swapping in some L19's as well within the next couple weeks.

iceminion · 06-03-2009

Hope you didn't blow your viscous coupling with all that slipping your car had to do to make some forward movement.

**Halon** · 06-03-2009

How do you check that? I've never dived much into the drivetrain internals, so I really am not all that sure what is normal and what's not.

**Halon** · 06-03-2009

Tranny is out.

That axle was definitely busted, and the piece is still inside the tranny. I was curious how 'stuck' it was so I poked it with my finger and it slid in 1/2" extremely easily. So I'm assuming it'll come out fairly easily also. Maybe if I can find a big magnet, I can suck it right on out? I think I'm going to pick up a replacement from Checker/O'Reilly right up the street from me. They want $49, and comes with a lifetime warrantee, can't complain about that.

So tranny is out. Where that axle went in, there is grease everywhere, but the tranny seems to be fine. I didn't see any big dings or cracks in the case anywhere. TOB seemed to still be in great condition.

Got the clutch off. All the PP mounting bolts were still nice and tight. It still looks to be in excellent condition, especially considering the abuse it saw at the track on Saturday. Flywheel still looked good. Pulled out the torque wrench and set it for 100lbs/ft, and none of the bolts moved one bit. So they are all still on there nice and tight. The clunking I heard on the way home I'm guessing was just the busted axle moving around.

I removed all the ARP studs, and the old headgasket. Went and grabbed a small taliban razor and started cleaning off the top of the block. I got about 1/4 of the way done scraping the block, and decided to call it a night.

Tomorrow the head is going to my uncle. I also plan to finish scraping the top of the block off, then dropping the oil pan and removing the rods/pistons, and checking the rod bearings. That's my goal for tomorrow.

Here's some pics. Last pic is of one of my front brake rotors. These little babies aren't liking slowing down after those 130+mph passes...

Super Bleeder!! · 06-03-2009

cant you just pull out the opposite axle and poke an extension through to push out the broken axle?

**Halon** · 06-03-2009

I tried that. I looked through the hole, and thought it looked like the end of the other axle in there, and tried poking it with a screw driver. But it didn't budge. so I thought maybe it was something else and didn't try anymore.

Maybe I will go try again, but with a hammer this time

**Halon** · 06-03-2009

I just went and checked that again. There is some sort of round bar that is in between the axles inside the tranny. I can only get a tiny screwdriver in there that can kinda get around that rod. The axle slides out just a hair, but won't slide out any more than that. I think I'll have to try and get it out once I take the whole thing apart.

C3L1CA · 06-03-2009

Don't the passenger side axles have that C-clip to hold them in place? That'd make just pushing it out mighty hard if it did. That is really impressive, at least to me haha, to break off an axle like that.

**Halon** · 06-03-2009

It'd be more impressive if it was because of mad powarz. But really it broke because of a dumbass mistake, ha!

**asshanson** · 06-04-2009

Making good progress it seems like.

If you take out the rods/pistons won't you have to re-ring it? Or are you just unbolting them from the crank to check out the bearings? Getting new ARP hardware for the rod bolts or just reusing?

Kevin 1G Drummer · 06-04-2009

The passenger axle has a C clip to hold it in, so getting that stub out is gonna be a bitch. And the round bar thing you saw is the shaft connecting the spider gears in the diff. Good luck with it!

TalonFiero · 06-04-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1QUICK4

Sweet, Now I'm not the only one who has broken an axle off in the tranny!

Once you get the diff pin out it will tap out easy with a drass drift punch.

You'll have to split the tranny case to remove that axle. Like Brian already mentioned, you'll have to remove the differential pin to gain you access to the back side of the axle and punch it out.

Hence why I said thats a shitty way to break an axle.

**Halon** · 06-04-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by asshanson

Making good progress it seems like.

If you take out the rods/pistons won't you have to re-ring it? Or are you just unbolting them from the crank to check out the bearings? Getting new ARP hardware for the rod bolts or just reusing?

I wasn't planning on re-ringing. I was just going to take them out, inspect everything, and throw it back in just like how I took it out. Hell that's what I did for the other 3 cylinders when I rebuilt that one cylinder. I removed all the pistons, but only re-ringed the one cylinder. And compression is pretty decent.

I have a dumb question though. If the rings aren't in the exact same position as they were when I took it out (say they rotated ever so slightly) is that an issue? Or do they always rotate slightly in the cylinder under normal operation, and it's not a big deal?

Just wondering if I need to take special care in making sure the rings are in the exact same spot when I take them out, and when I put them back in.

Also, does anyone got a ring compressor I could borrow?

TkrPerformance · 06-04-2009

you should drive out to craigs store we do get a discount there for style

**asshanson** · 06-04-2009

I believe keeping the same general ring location is pretty important, they shouldn't move around on their own. Otherwise there wouldn't be much point in lining up the ring gaps apart from each other on initial install.

**Halon** · 06-04-2009

Got the oil pan off, and popped out all the pistons/rods. The #2 rod bearing looked a bit more worn than the others. Enough that I'm going to order new bearings and replace them all just to be safe.

One thing I looked at right away was the piston rings. I had the gaps staggered when I installed them, but they have obviouslly moved since then. 1 piston had both the top ring gaps lining up almost perfect. Are you sure they don't turn somewhat freely during normal operation?

**asshanson** · 06-04-2009

Huh, after reading up about it, I guess they do rotate. I'll shutup now and let someone more knowledgeable chime in.