She's alive! Only had to change 1 setting in Megasquirt and she started right up. Need to solder in a jumper do the tach works. Also appears my noise issue at 3k rpm may be gone
LSD installed (Thanks MAP) and diff filled with Amsoil. Bought new rear axles since one is flinging grease all over, need to install them.
Also scored a deal on a 3" exhaust for like $300. I was getting sick of my homemade exhaust, wobbled and banged around too much. This one is much more solid. I installed it but it needs a little tweaking to get around the 350z trans mount. I'm also considering throwing some huge oval straight thru Magnaflow inline under the driveshaft to quiet it down more.
Also picked up a set of black powder coated GE Valve Covers for dirt cheap. Threw them on, pretty nice considering what I paid for them.
Also I was going to build a front facing intake manifold. However I found this for dirt cheap so just bought it.
It came with this TB, however it's the same flange as a Q45 which I already have. So I'll chose one of them to run, and sell the other.
Had to take the old intake manifold off. Had to remove a bit of wiring while doing that, so I decided f-it and unhooked the entire harness. I'm going to clean up the wiring while I have this all apart, and try to do a mini-tuck. Goal is to just make the wiring look clean. Bought a shit ton of regular nylon loom online for this. I also never rewired my fuel pumps so I bought two relays (keep one as a spare in case the other one ever dies). I'm also going to rerun the wires going to my amp for my sub. At the risk of inviting the peanut gallery to tell me how they would do it different/better, I'll share anyway. To keep wiring clean, I only want to run 1 wire from the battery to the trunk (even though the pumps and the amp/sub both need power). So I'm going to run a single fused (80A) 4awg wire from the battery to the trunk. In the trunk I have a distribution block that will have two fused (40A) 8awg wires coming out of it. One will go to the fuel pumps, the other will go to my amp. Considering the twin pumps should never really be pulling more than 25A (estimate @ ~40psi boost), and my amp/sub setup is just a small basic little 200W amp powering a single 10" sub, I think the 4awg feed will be plenty to power both of these with no real voltage fluctuation.
Anyhow, pics of that progress:
So as you can see, I started on the passenger side. All those wires used to be ran in the engine bay along the edge of the bay. Now they will be ran through the wheel well to clean up the appearance. Also on the driver side, I got rid of the old ABS fuse box and wires. All that's left on that side is the main fuse box, and one wire connector that goes to the brake reservoir. I'm leaving the fuse box as is, but have extended the wires for the brake reservoir and ran it in the wheel well, so that side cleaned up a little bit too. Little by little I chip away at it every day. It's done for the year so I have all winter to get it done.
Wire tuck and the new IM are gonna look *sick* dude! I'm excited to see once its done!!!
The only time you'll care about voltage drop on your fuel pumps is when you're WOT at high rpm and *cranking* the music. If you really want to test it, put on some earplugs, rev the car to like 3000-4000rpm, and crank the volume all the way up while you put a volt meter on your distro block (or even at the fuel pumps). If for some reason you get some voltage variation, get a phat capacitor and put it inline before the amp but after the distro block. Easy peasy.
No comment on noise or emf leaks, I don't have much experience with that.
[/peanuts]
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlo26
I need to listen to Scheides more often i think :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbotalon1g
...I realized that I can't keep up my shit talking without anything to back it up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JV
S2000: For those of us that know the Miata is the best car on the planet, but also want extra power and to not have to turn in our man cards.
Wire tuck and the new IM are gonna look *sick* dude! I'm excited to see once its done!!!
The only time you'll care about voltage drop on your fuel pumps is when you're WOT at high rpm and *cranking* the music. If you really want to test it, put on some earplugs, rev the car to like 3000-4000rpm, and crank the volume all the way up while you put a volt meter on your distro block (or even at the fuel pumps). If for some reason you get some voltage variation, get a phat capacitor and put it inline before the amp but after the distro block. Easy peasy.
No comment on noise or emf leaks, I don't have much experience with that.
[/peanuts]
This is why I love having a gauge that shows voltage at the fuel pumps.