How to swap heads quickly. - Page 2

**scheides** · 08-15-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by niterydr

10mm ratcheting wrench and a 10 mm fixed end wrench, Take the ratcheting one and spin it towards the fixed, the fixed will "tighten" the other will loosen up. Then its a game of :

for the 4 bolts as you spin the water pump and remove the bolts.

The head on my ratcheting wrench is too big for the evo water pump, I guess that's my problem. Then again, coming off isn't really a biggie, you're right. It's putting it back on that is a freaking wh0re! Remember the evo one is on the back side of the motor, the dsm one is more towards the front. Doing it alone sucks extra salty balls.

Pushit2.0 · 08-16-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceminion

Actually, the belts, and pullies plus the cover to the timing belt takes quite a bit of time.

When you have the right tools and do it enough times, it does not take that much time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceminion

Also remember you have to compress, and insert a pin in the timing belt tensioner. Every time you undo your timing and reassemble it the risk of a timing belt failure goes up.

If the timing belt job is done properly the pin should just slide right into the tensioner, or use the tensioner tool to compress it a little if the belt has stretched.

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceminion

not every dsmer has removed their power steering and air conditionin, if you think you can do all of that in 20 minutes, then you sir, are a machine.

Again with the right tools it could be done. From what I have seen if you need to pull the head on a DSM then it should be time to replace the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, and tensioners.

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceminion

So I would estimate that this saves closer to an hour + worrying about the tensioner failing pre-maturely.

So no, this saves more then 20 minutes

It would seem you do this a lot, so time it either way and report back.

~John

john · 08-17-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by joesushi

This tool is fast you can have your head swap done in minutes(leaving the manifolds attached), and there aren't any flying vice grips or bungie cords involved! No one likes those!

My guess is that you were also part in the "creation" of the magical tool.

As stated by many, this can save time but there are several other ways to do this without getting/making a tool which work just as well. This technique is not recommended for anyone who hasn't replaced their timing belt, tensioner, water pump, etc recently.

spinz4 · 08-17-2009

I bet $10 bucks that the little bit of cam movement made the hydraulic tensioner extend all of the way out, congrats.

**Halon** · 08-17-2009

Tool looks cool. If it works well for you, and saves you time, then sounds like a win win situation for you.

FattyBoomBatty · 08-17-2009

Nice work on the tool. If it helped at all, it was worth it.

joesushi · 08-18-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by spinz4

I bet $10 bucks that the little bit of cam movement made the hydraulic tensioner extend all of the way out, congrats.

It's an auto adjusting tensioner, so that wouldn't matter. The car runs great now.

niterydr · 08-19-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by joesushi

It's an auto adjusting tensioner, so that wouldn't matter. The car runs great now.

Its actually a hydraulic rod that provides tension over the length of a typical belt cycle/revolution. If the tension is not correct to begin with (on the pully/tensoner rod not centered) it is very likely that the tensioner will eventually run out of range and not compensate on during a high rpm condition, or start-up/shut-down stress.

iceminion · 08-19-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by niterydr

Its actually a hydraulic rod that provides tension over the length of a typical belt cycle/revolution. If the tension is not correct to begin with (on the pully/tensoner rod not centered) it is very likely that the tensioner will eventually run out of range and not compensate on during a high rpm condition, or start-up/shut-down stress.

Correct, an auto adjusting tensioner.

iceminion · 08-19-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pushit2.0

It would seem you do this a lot, so time it either way and report back.

~John

We just have loyal customers that like us, that's all.

Forced Fed · 08-19-2009

Yea it might save time and money, but it also could cost a lot more time and money... If you take the head off, just replace the timing components IMHO...

bertrenolds5 · 09-01-2009

Is he renting this contraption out? Would like to do my valve seals

slowbubblecar · 09-01-2009

The bungy cord method worked well enough for me. I was able to swap my head off and back on it a few hours. I used to zip tie the belt to the cam gears in many spots, use the bungey cords from the hood to the top of the cam greas to keep the tension and stick something between the cam gears. Worked well enough that I wouldn't use the time to make a tool. Removing the timing components on a dsm isn't that tough though. Everything is right there after you remove the covers.