Project Winter Beater - Page 9

123abc · 11-10-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt D.

Have you done a compression test?

Yes, like Travis said with a shitty tester. Came up from timing side to passenger side:

100 - 95 - 115 - 115

I don't trust the accuracy though as it's an old tester thats been sitting at school.

123abc · 11-10-2010

Did another compression test with a known good tester. Came back like this:

120 110 135 130 from timing to trans side, cold. I'll be hopefully doing a leak down test shortly if my friend gets a hold of me.

Another tidbit... While idling in my garage it started idling too low so I tried adjusting the base on my maf-t. After I set the base all the way to zero, it started idling as it should. I'll find out if it drives any better shortly...

twack · 11-10-2010

trying to mess with the tune to fix a problem is like putting on a band aid on this issue that need stiches

123abc · 11-11-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by twack

trying to mess with the tune to fix a problem is like putting on a band aid on this issue that need stiches

Yes I know this but it does point to a fuel issue, right?

Quote:

can you link me to the spacers you got that made those wheels work? I have a couple sets of 3/s wheels sitting around I wouldn't mind throwing on my dsm..

I got them off ebay. They are just the cheap, universal 5 and 4 lug 3mm spacers. You'd still have to grind material off the trailing arms and maybe a little off the spring perches. I was able to use them without spacers though, its just the spacers made everything a lot easier.

s1ngletracker · 11-10-2010

can you link me to the spacers you got that made those wheels work? I have a couple sets of 3/s wheels sitting around I wouldn't mind throwing on my dsm..

turbotalon1g · 11-11-2010

Ridicules!! lol

GG_9_SE · 11-11-2010

White plugs points to running lean.

123abc · 11-16-2010

I think I figured it out for the most part. I went to change to another 2g pressure regulator I found in my Stratus and to make things easier, I unhooked number 1 and 4 plug wires. I noticed that the number one plug wire must not have been making good contact as the boot was slid out farther than the others preventing it from going in all the way. After I fixed that, I put the regulator on and sure enough, idles great and pulls hard. Only thing is it now breaks up around 5k-6k. My afr's go from a steady 11.1-11.5 to 10 by 6k and thats exactly when it starts breaking up.

I've been trying to lean it out a bit on the high setting with my Maf-t and it helps but only pushes the point at which it breaks up further down the rpm range. Could my spark be blowing out? I'm rockin bpr6es gapped to .028.

turbotalon1g · 11-16-2010

Try BPR7ES, I wouldn't trust 6s past 12psi

123abc · 11-16-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

Try BPR7ES, I wouldn't trust 6s past 12psi

I was going to try them again because I've always had 7's in this motor. I put the 6's in hoping to get me somewhere in figuring it out. I'll have to do that tonight at work.

EDIT: Forgot I took a pic yesterday:

Thats my buddy's 86 Quantum Syncro. 1 of 3000 imported with the Syncro option. Factory locking center and rear diffs with an inline 5 cylinder powering it.

123abc · 11-17-2010

7's do the same thing. If anything maybe a little better. I'm considering throwing my COP on it again after a long time of not using it....

123abc · 12-01-2010

So I've had a realization. I swapped my COP back on my car and soldered in a nice plug and what do ya know....20 psi is so fun! lol

If anybody owns a 1g awd and wants to know the single best thing they can do to they're car handling wise....it has to be welding your rear trailing arms or getting the Jay's Eliminator kit. You wouldn't believe how it changes the way the car handles.

s1ngletracker · 12-02-2010

I'm confused, how does the jay's racing kit eliminate active rear toe?

123abc · 12-02-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1ngletracker

I'm confused, how does the jay's racing kit eliminate active rear toe?

With that kit you basically remove the stock bushing and it's mount on the trailing arm and the jay's kit will slide in where the stock rubber was and you weld it to the arm. I opted to go the super cheap route and buy the energy susp. poly bushing set for the upper & lower control arms, and trailing arms and then welded a washer on to make it solid.

This is the only pic that you can see the trailing arms when I was done with them, right before going back in my car:

s1ngletracker · 12-02-2010

so that eliminates the lateral flex of the bushing, which creates the active toe? That seems bad to me, as your control arms don't move vertically, they move in an arc and that could create binding, no?

123abc · 12-02-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1ngletracker

so that eliminates the lateral flex of the bushing, which creates the active toe? That seems bad to me, as your control arms don't move vertically, they move in an arc and that could create binding, no?

I can tell you mine do not bind and neither would the Jay's racing kit. That kit uses those rod ends which I doubt will bind. If anything, going the route I did can cause binding if you do it wrong. Mine went together really easy, and works really good.

Twack has ridden with a couple times and might be able to put his 2 cents in, but I'm on stock rusty springs and shocks, stock sway bars. Poly control arm and sway bar bushings in the front as well. The way it handles is anything but stock DSM.... if I throw the car into the corner, it rotates. Even on snow tires.

:::Kind of a late edit to my post, but I must add that when I aligned my car at school I did not fully follow the factory specs. The factory is tuned with tow in already, and lots of camber from the factory in the rear. I lessened the camber just a hair and actually added a little tow out in the rear. I feel like that contributes to the nice rotation I get as well.

123abc · 12-07-2010

So I stuffed the car in it's first ditch. You can see on the left side of the picture is where my rear end was. My right front tire was hanging off that cement pipe. Luckily there was a farmer with his tractor that was passing by just a little bit after it happened. He had a bucket setup on the front and we were able to lift the front end up and back on the wheels and then pull it out. We're pretty lucky:

All that was damaged was a bent right front rim, my wideband sensor got bent pretty good, and I need to replace a stud on my o2 housing for the downpipe. I already replaced the sensor (86 dollars later...) and my friend Zach is bringing another rim for me to paint and mount the tire on. I'll have to pull the exhaust side off my turbo to remove the stud.

Could've been a lot worse though....

EDIT: Here is the video but for some reason ends right as my front end is about to be white washed...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6vq3gcmGAM

123abc · 02-05-2011

Long time no update...

Just got a few nice upgrades for the talon over the last couple days. Found a nice, true e3 16g turbo, some nice couplers and t bolt clamps for the gm maf, and a greddy catch can.

This o2 housing didn't come with the turbo, but a stock 2g one did. This is my ported 1g o2 housing:

123abc · 02-09-2011

Installed the turbo yesterday at school. Ran it at 20 psi up until after school today with good results. Then I turned it up just a little bit more and now it seems happy at 25 psi with 11.2-10.8 afr's to redline. Pulls really hard so I'm very happy. I should try and get to the dyno day....

twack · 02-18-2011

is your MBC tee'd into your BOV?