Evo X upgrades - Page 82

**mlomker** · 11-18-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Murlo26

Did i really miss that one, or maybe I just forgot.

It was in a guy's sig on EvoM and not a dyno or build thread. He did 500/500 on Tobz's dyno. I'll link it if I run across it again.

**goodhart** · 11-18-2010

Was just now able to see the graphs. Nice numbers dude!!

**mlomker** · 11-19-2010

I'm working on re-doing my catch can setup. I'm replacing the vacuum line that I was using with fuel hose since the vacuum line was weeping oil.

I exchanged emails with Chad@CBRD and he concurs with Ron that it's most likely crankcase pressure. With the dipstick blowing and other symptoms, I guess that makes sense. I'll drop Grimmspeed another line about their AOS.

I'm not keen about drilling holes in my valve cover and going to a more elaborate catch can arrangement but if that's what it takes...

**Kracka** · 11-19-2010

Have you tried just removing the catch-can setup all together for a test? My guess is going back to stock routing would cure the problem (PCV to IM, VC to intake). You can leave your check-valves in place, as long as the ones you got can flow a decent amount of air they shouldn't be the restriction.

The only other thing I can think of is your piston rings not sealing well. You just did drop-ins, right? Have you done a compression or leak-down test yet?

**mlomker** · 11-19-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

Have you done a compression or leak-down test yet?

Sounds like the next step. I'll wait a week for my fuel hose to come in (ordered it from Jegs) and see if Grimmspeed gets back to me at all. I have an email off to Jesse to see if I can bring the intake in for a fitting.

End of the month I'll probably leave it with Ron for a few hours and have him run the usual tests...leakdown, compression, and pull the plugs and take a peek in the cylinders.

--
Chad@CBRD is an odd guy. One minute he comes across as stern and the next he's joking. I haven't quite figured him out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlomker

Then I'll pursue that more aggressively. I've never heard of anyone having to drill additional venting into a X valve cover but it wouldn't be the first time that my car was special in an annoying way.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBRD

LOL! these damn things are a pain,

make sure the barb on your intake pipe is drilled out big enough,

we had an AMS intake pipe here that they forgot to drill, could have REALLY damaged the motor!

cb

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 11-19-2010

He has just straight up drop-ins, so it's very likely the cause.

**Murlo26** · 11-19-2010

Is this something that would've been solved with a hone or why you guys recommend a hone?

Just curious because technically I "just did drop ins" but it was on a fresh motor.

**mlomker** · 11-19-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

Have you tried just removing the catch-can setup all together for a test?

I did on the front side but my Primo intake doesn't have the fitting. I've thought about dropping them a line to add one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Murlo26

Is this something that would've been solved with a hone or why you guys recommend a hone?

Looks that way. There's no way I could afford to fix it, either, if that's the case.

**Halon** · 11-19-2010

You dropped in new pistons/rings without running a hone or anything? I'd definately say there's a chance that could be the root cause there. The rings may have never bedded in well and hense the increased blow-by.

Pop the head off, oil pan off, remove pistons and rods and run a quick hone up and down. Re-ring and see if that helps. Alothough I don't know Evo X's so I have no clue how difficult removing the head and oil pan is compared to a dsm.

**Murlo26** · 11-19-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Halon

You dropped in new pistons/rings without running a hone or anything? I'd definately say there's a chance that could be the root cause there. The rings may have never bedded in well and hense the increased blow-by.

Pop the head off, oil pan off, remove pistons and rods and run a quick hone up and down. Re-ring and see if that helps. Alothough I don't know Evo X's so I have no clue how difficult removing the head and oil pan is compared to a dsm.

Not easy at all.

**Halon** · 11-19-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Murlo26

Not easy at all.

Just curious, what makes it so difficult in comparison to say a DSM or Evo 8?

And while I agree that yes the ideal way would be to have the motor out, does that mean it has to be done that way? I did the one cylinder on my talon with the motor in the car. I had a bunch of rags/blankets under that cylinder, around the crank, to catch as many particles as possible. Then wiped down the cylinder walls as best I could with rags and tranny fluid and wd40. Never had an issue. Shane when you did the pistons in your 2G, those were just drop in correct? Did you remove the motor for that?

Just a thought, to each their own

**Murlo26** · 11-19-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Halon

Just curious, what makes it so difficult in comparison to say a DSM or Evo 8?

I am sure Shane could answer this best. Basically every time we talk about the 8/9 vs the X he says how much more work the X is to do. I haven't done it personally so I couldn't tell you.

**mlomker** · 11-19-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Halon

Shane when you did the pistons in your 2G, those were just drop in correct?

What he had said to me is that if it were his car he'd turn the motor upside down on an engine stand and hone it but he wouldn't do that on a customer's car.

**scheides** · 11-21-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Murlo26

Not easy at all. About the same amount of work as on a DSM.

FTFY.

**Murlo26** · 11-21-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

FTFY.

I haven't done either, was simply relaying what others who have performed the work have said. You have now done that, so I defer to your expertise

**mlomker** · 11-19-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Halon

Pop the head off, oil pan off, remove pistons and rods and run a quick hone up and down.

Shane didn't want to hone it in the car, said we'd have to pull the motor and that's what led us to where we're at. I'm not a mechanic and I can't afford to have that kind of work re-done. I assume it'd be over $3k to pull the motor to do that right.

Even at Amsoil's $11/qt that will buy a lot of oil.

**Kracka** · 11-19-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlomker

Even at Amsoil's $11/qt that will buy a lot of oil.

$4.40/qt Mobil 1 FTW

428gt · 11-21-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

$4.40/qt Mobil 1 FTW

...and a spun bearing down the road

simulatedwood · 11-19-2010

Id say before jumping to conclusions, Do the necessary troubleshooting steps then worry about whats next.
If the car runs good, just let r buck, enjoy this thing!

**mlomker** · 11-19-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by simulatedwood

Do the necessary troubleshooting steps then worry about whats next.

I'm not worried, I'm just saying the rings are staying in the motor unless it stops running right.