beaterX project thread - Page 62

**scheides** · 12-27-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

Man this thing comes apart pretty often.
Will it be making more power then or just where it should be again when you are done?

Heh, I've put thousands of miles on it since the turbo stuff this summer. The shortblock has probably 21-22k on it, I drive it every day. I'm not not super happy it comes apart as often as it does but hey fix it quick and back on the road, that's my motto. No jack stands queen for me!

turbotalon1g · 12-28-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

Heh, I've put thousands of miles on it since the turbo stuff this summer. The shortblock has probably 21-22k on it, I drive it every day. I'm not not super happy it comes apart as often as it does but hey fix it quick and back on the road, that's my motto. No jack stands queen for me!

That's cool, I like just being able to get in a normal car and not think about it.
Good luck.

**scheides** · 12-28-2012

Head is off at the machine shop and I'm praying for a quick turn-around. Cleaning the block yesterday I scrub off all of the carbon build-up and there's one chunk that won't wipe away (also notice the pitting):

Finally I move on to the others and move that piston to the bottom of the cylinder and realize that I may have overlooked something during my initial inspection. After cleaning it up I was able to find this:

This is the cylinder that the spark plug broke on

My nail *slightly* catches on a few of these marks unfortunately.

At this point I have to look at the facts:
-compression was good in this cylinder
-leakdown test showed leakage in the valves, not the rings
-while not the whole problem, this may have been contributing to the oil consumption issue.

DSM'er in me (and my wife) are forcing me to finish fixing the head and spend the couple hours it will take to re-assemble it and get it back on the road. I cannot afford the downtime required to fully fix it right now; the block is already .020" over and will need to be sleeved if it comes out again. Once it's back together I'll re-test compression/leakdown and watch oil consumption and then keep an eye out for a good core to get sleeved.

simulatedwood · 12-28-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

This is the cylinder that the spark plug broke on

My nail *slightly* catches on a few of these marks unfortunately.

At this point I have to look at the facts:
-compression was good in this cylinder
-leakdown test showed leakage in the valves, not the rings
-while not the whole problem, this may have been contributing to the oil consumption issue.

DSM'er in me (and my wife) are forcing me to finish fixing the head and spend the couple hours it will take to re-assemble it and get it back on the road. I cannot afford the downtime required to fully fix it right now; the block is already .020" over and will need to be sleeved if it comes out again. Once it's back together I'll re-test compression/leakdown and watch oil consumption and then keep an eye out for a good core to get sleeved.

It will be fine, even with the little bit of damage that is there, all it will do is possibly cause some blow-by and oil consumption. power-wise you will be splitting hairs. Just check the oil occasionally and let r buck!

A//// Guy · 12-28-2012

That scoring doesnt look good but could you do a quick hone while you have the head off? Just to get it a little smoother.

Yea id just put the head back on and letter buck, see what compression is after that.

**JET** · 12-28-2012

Ouch, that doesn't look very good. It shouldn't cause any catastrophic issues, so you can plan for a rebuild down the road a little ways. It looks like some signs of detonation on your pistons also, there are some craters in them.

If your fingernail catches them they are usually at least .002" deep. If they are less than .005" deep you could bore it .030" over (since you are .020" over already) and get rid of the scratches. Can the stock block take .030" over?

**scheides** · 12-28-2012

I don't think honing it with the piston still in is a very good idea, if I fix it I'll fix it 'right'

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

Ouch, that doesn't look very good. It shouldn't cause any catastrophic issues, so you can plan for a rebuild down the road a little ways. It looks like some signs of detonation on your pistons also, there are some craters in them.

If your fingernail catches them they are usually at least .002" deep. If they are less than .005" deep you could bore it .030" over (since you are .020" over already) and get rid of the scratches. Can the stock block take .030" over?

I think the craters are from the same thing that caused the scratches, none of the other cylinders have them

If the block comes out it's getting sleeved, .020" is already risky enough on this block.

**Halon** · 12-28-2012

Kind of reminds me of the scratches/dings I had in my 1 cylinder when I had a valve fail on me. I had taken the pistons/rods out, so I ran a hone through mine but even after that I could still just barely feel them with my finger nail. I ran it like that. That one cylinder always had liek 5-10psi less compression than the others, but it ran fine, didn't consume any oil that I could ever tell. I made my highest dyno numbers, and ran my 10sec pass with the motor like that.

I'd honestly just let er buck. It may not be perfect, but that's OK sometimes. It may prove to hardly make a noticeable difference at all.

**Murlo26** · 12-28-2012

More boost and let er buck

turbotalon1g · 12-28-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Murlo26

More boost and let er buck

I like this idea.

rose0529 · 12-28-2012

Bummer Doode!

**scheides** · 12-28-2012

Fun day! Swung out to MAP's new shop to pick up a small pile of parts and then up to Wagemon's to drop most of them off. MAP & Wag's really came through for me--I yanked the head wednesday night and delivered it Thursday, and as of 5pm today (Friday) the head was cleaned up and back in my hands

Here's what we figured out: valves and seats appear to be prematurely worn. All 8 exhaust valves were bent, just slightly. Lots of valves prematurely worn on the stem end. Spring seats are all deformed slightly, bending down all around the outside edge.

Out with the 'old':

In with the new parts:
-GSC 5042 Beehive valvespring/retainer kit
-8 new Supertech +1mm intake valves
-8 new Supertech +1mm exhaust valves
-16 new OEM valve seals/spring seats.

More bad news? One of my cam journals shows signs of slight scoring. They believe one cam cap is slightly out of round due to my dumb-ass over-torquing the cam cap bolts with an inaccurate torque wrench (read: buy good tools and the right tools!) This cam cap is also over-drilled and double-helicoiled thanks to yours truely and really the only fix for all of this is a full line hone or a new head core. I'm in over my head here so I have no choice but to trust what I'm being told, and I don't like what I'm being told

I had a set of GSC S2 cams ready to drop in but I couldn't bring myself to risk them. I asked them to just put the Kelford 214-B's back in and clean it up as best they could.

For those keeping track, here's where we're at:
-head trashed (but usable)
-block trashed (but fixable with sleeving)
-FML.

So yea, gonna be big decision time pretty soon here but for now I'm off to drink a case of Grain Belt and then put the car back together in the morning.

I got a nice set of MAP's H11 headstuds; these things are bad-ass! Anyone interested in a lightly-used set of ARP headstuds for CHEAP let me know!

**goodhart** · 12-29-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

I'm off to drink a case of Grain Belt and then put the car back together in the morning.

Like.

But the rest sucks man. Do you thing the over tightening of the cam cap caused all of this then? Why bring the stuff to Wagamon and not have MAP do it? idk, Wagamon fucked up a motor of mine so I'm just not a big fan of them.