91 Galant VR4

[goodhart]

Would one of those crank scrapers help in this type of situation? Maybe it would keep the oil down in the pan better? Also, I think tpunx99gsx has/had one of those Moroso oil pans on his 1g, not sure if he still has it.

[Halon]

That sucks, but an awesome carnage picture for sure!

What pistons were you running if you don't mind me asking? I ask because you mentioned the skirt/pin area showing signs of cracks, and I can't help but wonder if they were Wiseco's which people are seeing that same thing happen to occasionally.

[Pushit2.0]

I will take a few more picks tonight. The oil pump is shot due to air in the oil, no balance issues as its driven from the timing belt.

The Rod bearings just look worn from having a heavy crower rod spinning to 10,000rpm(logs show between shifts the motor would free rev to 10,000rpm).

They are Wiseco pistons, but I think my cracking issues is from the block moving around as much as it did. Ok I was miss understanding where they were known to crack, but I have the same issue as this thread.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyli...ce-wiseco.html

All 4 pistons are cracked where the skirt blends into the wrist pin boss, only on the front side of the piston as they sit in the car. I think my piston to wall is somewhere around .005, I will check tonight.

I am thinking of fabricating an oil pan, making a crank scrapper and windage tray.

And I will be filling most of the water jacket with hard block, as a 4g63 sits there is 5" of un supported cylinder wall to flap in the breeze. So I am thinking of filling all but 2 1/2" or so with hard block to keep things straight and less cracked.

As of now I am looking into switching to CP pistons and have looked at aluminum rods. That would come down to if I can sell the Crower rods I have now.

~John

[turbotalon1g]

Those pics make me

It seems you are going to some extremes for 700whp, there are a shit ton of people nationally making similar power, maybe they can help?

Good luck, you are def. going down a rough path, but I'm glad to hear you plan on blazing down that bitch.

Keep up the hard work we are rooting for you.

[Pushit2.0]

The only reason I am looking at the extremes is this is pump gas hp at low boost. At some point I plan to run E98 and turn up the boost, but I want to get the bugs worked out at the track.

I plan to talk with anyone I can about this next motor build, things have come a long way in the last few years even. I started buying parts for this last motor build 6 years ago.

~John

[Pushit2.0]

I just re checked and my piston to wall clearance was .005-.006". I do not recall the main or rod bearing clearance, but I would guess it was .0010-.0012", spec is .0008-.0020" on both.

Here are the pics of the cracks and bearings, the mains look good:







~John

[Pushit2.0]

A few updates on the never ending build. I have 2 blocks for the car for next year, one will be the new race motor, and the other will be the backup motor.

We just finished doing a partial fill on a block and machine work for the Crower rods and Wiseco pistons to go into. I just need rings and clean/paint the block and that motor is ready for assembly.

Then the good news, I am getting custom CP pistons, and custom Carillo rods for the new race motor. Which will have a lot more hard block then the back up motor.

The pistons are custom designed for this setup, the piston is more like a clover shape in the bore for better piston stability, It will have a 22mm HD wrist pin, and added strength from the shelf part to handle the high boost, high hp, and high rpm I plan for this setup. It will also have a new wrist pin lock and tool that is supposed to be easy to install and take apart.

The rods will be a straight H beem, a 22mm pin bore on the small end, and be the right width on the big end to fit the 6 bolt crank shaft, and the top of the line rod bolts, Multiphase TM (285,000 UTS).

I will post some pics tomorrow, and let you know when the shinny new parts show up.

~John

[turbotalon1g]

Sounds like a lot of custom stuff, are you looking to be able to hit more hp than last time?

[Pushit2.0]

I have to dyno the car again, it will be on E98 with more fuel pump and injector then last time. So I want to start right about were it was at last time, then up the boost a few times and see where it goes, if I get 800awhp I would be happy.

Then go back to the track with the current power level and get the chassis setup, then up the power as needed.

~John

[Pushit2.0]

The parts are here.








Here are the rods and pistons up close. The pistons have a grove at the top of the compression ring and 4 gas ports to let cylinder pressure to the back side of the compression ring. They have the 22mm HD wrist pin, and the new SS wire lock with install tool that holds the wrist pin and is really easy to install/remove the locks. The rods are a straight H beam design and use 3/8" CARR rod bolts, this should hold the rod cap even at 10,000 rpm, or more.








This is the new block in the first stages of machining. The new CP pistons are .020 over, I am going to fill most of the water jacket with hardblock Monday after work. The block and caps are reamed out for the cap pins. After the hard block is in, I put the torque plate on then its into the V30 for decking, and boring of the cylinders. Then line hone and finish hone with diamond brushes. Then I will spend a few hours with a die grinder cleaning up the inside of the block. Then I want to make a crank scraper, and windage tray if there is room in the stock oil pan.

I will be ordering the few parts I need later this week to get the car up and running. I should be starting assembly of the motor in the next few weeks. Then its off to the dyno on E98 to make about the same power as last year, then to the track to get a good 60 foot time going.

The new parts:
Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump
FIC Blue max 2150 injectors
felpro perma torque head gasket
new oil pump
misc gaskets for the engine

~John

[niterydr]

Nice!!!!!

[Pushit2.0]

I will have bearings tomorrow, then its final cleaning, polish the crank, check the rod bearing specs, file rings, then start assembling. I should have some update pics early next week.

I just need to order a few oil pumps and a hand full of gaskets so when the head is done I can finish the motor.

~John

[niterydr]

This is going to be sweet! So baseline fuel pressure will be 55psi? LOL.

[Constant_Project21]

Good to see progress!! I will actually have to take a peek at this thing this year, every event I actually went to, it wasn't there

[FattyBoomBatty]

Gonna run a BAP with that pump? Or will it support everything you need/want?

[Pushit2.0]

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty

Gonna run a BAP with that pump? Or will it support everything you need/want?

This fuel pump and injector combo as proved to handle 1050some AWHP at MAP.

Based on the math my setup will not make more then about 850 at DB, and thats if everything holds together and nothing is a bottle neck in the setup.

~John

[awd-drifter]

Lookin' good man! Can't wait to see it at the dyno!

[URV8SUX]

Looking good john lets get to the track soon!

[TalonFiero]

Nice updates! That wire lock tool looks slick and a good way to keep wire locks from shooting around the room.

[Pushit2.0]

I only had the 8 locks to install, so not much for practice runs. I did have 2 pop out but by the 4th piston I had the hang of it.

I am happy with all the specs on the bearings, rings, piston to wall, crank end play, etc. I just have a few things to touch up on the head and I am waiting on a few other parts, oil pump, water pump stuff that should be here the end of this week. All in all I had 10 hours into the short block for final spec and assembly. Not bad but I wanted to make sure everything was as good as it could be.

Then when the car is up and running I will start to work on the back up motor. If everything works out I could be at the DB spring dyno day in mid May, then its off to Grove Creek for 60' testing.




After a fun threw the parts washer at work, then hot water and dawn dish soap wash, then brake clean and brushes threw the oil galleys and cylinder walls. A fresh coat of primer, then black engine paint and clear coat to finish it off.





Here are most of the tools and parts needed to assemble the short block, thanks to CP pistons and Carrillo rods for the great parts, and the Kramm Lox just make the piston and rod assembly so easy.




Here are the ARP main studs installed with the custom main cap dowel pins that are 1/2 in the block and 1/2 in the main cap. I am using STD sized ACL race series main bearings, and ACL race series rod bearings with the added .001" oil clearance.




Here I take the custom Carrillo rod and check the rod bolt length before I un-torque the bolt, this lets me know how much rod bolt stretch there was when they did the hone on the big end of the rod. I measured an average .0035" of rod bolt stretch, a common number for a 4g63 rod bolt right out of the box. I then measure the bolts free length, this will let me know over time if the bolt stretches and does not go back to its original length. Then I install the rod bearing shells and check the ID of the bearing. I torqued the rod bolts to 58 fl/lbs and the rod bolt stretch was about .0055" so just above the bottom end of the spec, which is .004"-.007".










Then I install the Kramm Lox for the wrist pin, and after file fitting the rings I install each rod/piston combo into the block and properly torquing the rod bolts 1 last time. I torqued them all to 58 ft/lbs again and only had to put a little more on 1 rod bolt to get in the .006" rod bolt stretch, right in the middle of the spec.


~John