She lives once again..... *(Post is pretty darn long)*
After a few hard days work i got her all back together and shes doin pretty good for the most part. heres some pics from putting it back together ill take some of the completed project when it gets cleaned up a bit more.
Also got some bad news for some reason one of the ears broke off my starter and it scared the starter ring gear on the flywheel pretty good, I put a new starter in but it still sounds pretty rough.
On top of that its also got some clutch disengagement issues. I put a brand new slave in with the clutch and even shimmed the pivot ball while it was apart. I also extended the slave rod too about a 1/4 inch(with it extended the slave is damn close to being bottomed out). It got gravity bled last night for about 45 minutes of me watching it and was coming out steady and clean, still have to pump the shit out of it to get it to disengauge all the way, then a buddy and I bled it again today and I noticed that the clutch fork has about an an inch travel the first time the pedals depressed.
Any ideas on this issue? I know that the clutch master was replaced about 10,000 miles ago. When I first got the car it took a few pumps to get it to disengage but after a while of driving it seemed to work alright. If it makes any difference after it gets driven down the highway in the cold it seems to work just fine after the first push, but I assume thats just because the fluid gets thick right?
Well Last Friday I began prepping the trans to go back to its home. Shimmed the pivot ball with 1x thicker washer, greased the splines and the seals for the axles so they wouldn't rip on install.
Cleaned up the clutch fork and lubed the pivot points
And then put the fork and TOB in.
Then my attention got turned to the engine, installed the new rear main. Decided to only do the seal and not remove the whole housing it was really easy because,I found out why the old one was leaking it was pushed out of the block quite a ways.
checkin out my new 11.5lb chrome moly flywheel
installed the new xtd stage 4 clutch and pressure plate
then there was a big mistake on my part, the bolts were too long and when I was torquing the pressure plate it would set off my torque wrench before the pressure plate was flat against the flywheel.
that should have thrown a red flag but I got to the 2nd one and it snapped off in there.
Drilled it out and was able to get it with an easy out.... talk about a very nerve racking time, the holes are really close to the edge of the boss there tapped into.
after i did that you would think it would be ready to go, but then I slid the trans under and was about to pick it up to slide the jack under it from the top and caught sight of this.....
An oily,gritty,nasty ooze all over the side of the block and head.
It appeared to be coming from the headgasket at first, but it was coming out of the intake cam seal on the end of the head.
Nope it didn't stop there. I looked around the front of the block and it turns out the oil,grease, and grime were much more plentiful than what I had noticed previously.
Figured I should take the header,turbo and O2 housing off to get a better look.
Alot of the oil on the front of the engine towards the timing belt side is because, the car has a universal cut to length dip stick on it and the dipstick only had felt to seal it to the tube,you can about imagine how good that worked once the heat from the header got to it.....
So I put some silicone where the sealing cap had the loop for the dipstick coming through it, glued an o-ring to the bottom of the sealing cap and put a pretty thick piece of hose in the top of the dipstick tube. All of that seemed to do pretty good but the dipstick would blow up some and oil would still come out of it so I put a small hose clamp lower down on the dipstick and hooked a carb spring running from that to the top of the dipstick. It looks crude but it works damn well, and the heat from the header didn't effect the springs tension at all suprisingly.
I have no doubt in my mind that a factory dipstick would have no problem staying in the tube on this car a failing PCV valve went unnoticed for sometime. Fortunately just took some time and it saved me $17 over a new OEM dipstick.This dipstick retention setup has been on the car for probably the last 4000 miles and Its easy to check the oil, doesnt get in the way of anything really, makes a great conversation piece and cost like 3 bucks haha.
Then while I was pondering what to do when I remembered that the powersteering resivor had leaked and spit flid all over its lines, the frame rail, wiring harness for the alternator and the huge wiring harness that runs in the fenderwell.
I had also really wanted to keep the A/C on this car but I pushed the petcock valve on the fill nipple and nothing came out so I grabbed a refill kit I had layin around and tried it for shits n giggles. That was a no go it was leaking at the pump and somewhere in the middle of the condenser.
At this point I decided to do away with both the Power Steering and the A/C clean the engine bay and degrease/paint the engine, its no insane wire tuck or engine bay repaint but its way cleaner than it was before and easier to work on.
Heres before the cleaning started, the ac and ps were already removed and the engine is being degreased.
And all cleaned up,take a look at the floor in this pic and you can get an idea of the amount of oil that was on the engine. I didn't use any water to clean it, just Gunk Engine Brite a scrub brush and then rinsed it with some windex.(on the hardcore spots I used Brake/Carb cleaner).
Well being that the motor and engine bay were nice and clean now, I couldn't hang the super oily/grease caked turbo off of it, so I cleaned it as well inside and out it was definitely well lubricated haha.
I learned that it has a polished compressor housing which i did not know till now lol as well as a ported inlet on the exhaust housing.
Wiped it a little bit looking for some numbers on it, but only found a couple on the exhaust housing and when I googled them Everything said Big 16g, But Supposedly its a Evo 3 16g? If it is or isn't and someone would let me know that'd be greatly appreciated.
Bad PCV valve with stock crankcase evacuation= a nasty mess my intercooler looked the same way within 1500 miles of being cleaned.
I forgot to take finished pics, but its nothin special just not all oily inside and out. Ill get a closeup of it when I take the finished pics tomorrow hopefully.
I was hesitant to port the wastegate area out due to severe cracking in there, and it was a huge mistake, When I built this 3" exhaust. It comes off the 2.5" crush bent down pipe right now but I'm planning to make a pie cut 3" one this weekend.
I had a hard time holding the exhaust up by myself and the jackstands were in use so the exhaust is rubbing on the bottom transfercase bolt a little right where it comes off the shitty downpipe.
and installed it the turbo creeps..... like 13lbs worth of creep
MBC set at 9lbs, it'll hold 9lbs till about 4500rpm then the climb starts by the time you get to 7000rpm in 2nd your at about 22lbs of boost. Basically im debating on whether or not to just go external gate just simply due to having to get a bigger WG flapper, the cracking in the housing around the WG outlet and the problems others have had with them still creeping after the porting
you can spin the rod to lengthen or shorten to where it works. might help a lil bit.
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